Need a sensor for my heat mantle from china ,they forgot to pack it in the box with the mantle…i
Hey guys any help will do please I’m in a bit of a jam and my supplier from China is doing his best to communicate butbits really hard to really what I’m saying to him .
I can’t link you to an exact sensor, but I believe that is an M12 connector, and it is “A-coded.” M12 connectors can have different numbers of pins, but for sensors there are 3 or 4 pins. This one has 4. Best of luck
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You can message across international and theyll sell you one (probably grossly overpriced) but I think the move is probably to just build one yourself:
(side note if anyone ever needs to build a heated top for their short path this is an easy way to do it: Make a High Temperature Heating Mantle - YouTube )
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Cheap mantle thermo-probe fix?
What type of connection is this?
Retraining PID In AI mantle?
all hits to Search results for 'mantle fix' - Future4200 there are a couple of others you might hit with “replace” or “replacement” but trust me, you’re not the first one to find yourself with a dead probe.
this is just one item where you should always have a spare.
or at least know how to fix it on the fly.
see: Search results for 'thermocouple' - Future4200 for more info on that and finding the part you seek
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@Xtractek, does that video suggest anything to you?
how many of those probeless stir plates do you have?
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whoops!
not your picture.
so you’ve hit the right thread already.
do you have the plug shown? (or did they skip that too?)
that will enable the internal sensor.
it’s a k-type thermocouple (two wires). so any k-type probe with a long enough SS sheath on it will work. pretty sure you can pick up a pack of butt splices from home despot and solve this yourself by playing with how you jumper those four pins. or just open the fucking box so you can see how to jumper them.
once you get it right it will read the right temp (use 0C and 25C as your targets at first.)
if you’ve got it wrong, it will read high or low or not at all. zero chance of hurting it or electrocuting yourself if you put a boiling flask with cold water in it in the mantle while asking it questions. worse case senario it makes hot water.
or maybe @Soxhlet who provided that picture will put a meter on his plug and share it solved…
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Bro you’re the fucking man …all of you guys are stellar!
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my math say max three attempts…
if the first pair of pairs is not results in no signal, then the second pairing with either be correct or give the wrong temp. if the first paring gave signal, it is either correct or swap one wire from each pair.
once you’ve figured out which wires are “paired” it should take a max of two attempts to figure out which ones are the thermocouple and which are the controller using another k-type thermocouple probe. possibly one more to get the polarity correct.
then you can buy a couple of probes from Omega
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Hey guys Nuff respect for the advice , will be trying to re wire the thermocouple…Just got in from work so I’m a bit tired I’ll try tomorrow and leave an update.
FYI field wireable M12 connectors are a thing. We get ours from molex. Slightly less hacky solution versus clipping and splicing the wire.
Yeah I just need the sensor to program the rhaatid ting …didnt wanna Mgyver it but it’s an option that seems pretty doable ,Lol this sensor has me losing my shit !!!
With thermocouples, I usually first try to get a temp reading.
Then increase or decrease the temp. If the temp reading moves in the opposite direction of what it should the two wires need to be swapped.
Once temp is moving in the right direction, calibrate/check temp with ice and boiling water.
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Agreed! Water in the boiling flask is important on this one so the mantle doesn’t get hot too fast.
@SidViscous, I wasn’t suggesting clipping wires. Just jumpering pins to enable the internal probe.
The mantles that use a four pin connector (often?!?) have an internal k-type thermocouple & are supplied with a plug that jumpers the controller to that thermocouple.
So @Reggaeboy could be up and running using a paperclip (I’m suggesting butt splices that slide over the pins & two short wires) while waiting for either a generic k-type probe & an m12 connector or the oem probe to arrive.
With a dab of hot glue or epoxy putty they would have a DIY version of the plug shown in the first picture (which was posted by @Soxhlet last time we did this dance).
Understanding how the plug functions/ success here then opens the door to using any old k-type thermocouple.
The OEM probes are a weak spot, and a common failure point. Another “fix” folks should have in their tool kit is clipping the wires right behind the SS tubing, twisting them back together, and sneaking that between the mantle and the boiling flask. I absolutely agree that having a spare probe is a better solution, but getting back to work in two min rather than two days also has its pros.
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This is absolutely possible, i’d say just jump them until you see the display indicate that a t/c is indeed connected.
Initially when I started the burn in process I didn’t with a boiling flask filled with water, the temperature climbed but would stagger and drop sonic thought it was a programming function ,held the button for 8 secs and sae a list of programming parameters…tried playing with a few things but it didnt really help .I thought once the probe was in a boiling flask with water that would suffice …but all in all it’s a good learning curve for me ,especially reaching out to you guys and have you drop some knowledge on me …For that I’m greatly appreciative .
confused. do you or don’t you have the thermoprobe?
are you just looking for the “jumper” plug?
if you diddled any of the settings, you may now need to figure out the reset command.
I have the probe…just not the programming sensor .The one without the probe .
And yes I believe it’s the jumper plug I’m looking for, the plug without the probe if I’m correct .
Sorry I didnt clarify myself earlier guys .
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