Iso and water to dewax

This month I decided to test the efficiency of a room temp dewaxing process using 70/30 iso to water to see how efficient it is compared to a cryogenic freeze of 99% isopropyl alcohol attemtping to dewax as well.

The method was just to dewax first at room temp after I preboiled the compound is my 70/30 iso to water mix. This grabbed a significant quantity of both the green gunk and also the wax. The I purged solvent. Then I redisolved the compound in 99% iso. Chilled then down to -65° C and I pulled this through a clean buchner funnel over alumina.

The light scum collected under winterization was like a fine lotion but dense and even a thin layer on top slowed the pull through the alumina to a crawl. However what surprised me was by volumn how little “wax” remained after just a room temp filtration with a highly polar solvent mix of 70/30 iso to water. I had suspected the room temp operation was very efficient but this confirms to me that just a room temp grab of the wax (which also grabs the green) by adjusting polarity instead of temperature is more than adequate. Here is the room temp operation in progress. See all the green?

My cryo tub winterization absolutely rejected enough light scum to make it worthwhile because I plan multiple passes and high purity and evey tiny bit adds up if it can be kept out of the boiling flask. The take away from this lab is that an alumina column is easily adjusted via the solvent polarity to just at room temp compete acceptably with the winterization method.


After hydrolysis step, do i need to redissolve in iso? Have you tried other solvents like methanol for this tek?

Anyone tried this out as of late?


I’ve tried Beaker’s 70/30 iso/water tek and it works like a charm. After some messing around with ratios I was able to get great results with vodka (or rather eth/water mixture closer to 60% eth) as well. Vodka tek will affect canna content. After a single pass 50% of THC and 15-18% CBD was gone so it could be considered a room temp winterisation bundled with thc reduction.


Its December 29th 2021, anyone still interested? @Beaker are you still here? I’m working on a home kitchen RSO SOP that uses water for dewaxing. Give me a reply if still around and interested…


He’s no longer with us unfortunately. His spirit lives on in us, but he passed away some time ago.


It’s always great to see his posts dug up by someone using the search tho!:+1:


Damn I’m pissed I’m out of likes. His old posts are amazing, I’ve learned much from them, and you are correct here lives on through us!


This is just what I was looking for. Talk about serendipitous.


This post is what led me to find the D-Wax media which works well due to the 50% water in it. The citric acid in it helps in removing the gums as well. Beaker was so advanced he’s still teaching us to this day


Now I’m tempted to mix in some citric acid with the 70% iso. I’m going to try it out this week and post how it goes.


So sorry to hear of his passing. Lets carry his torch forward. I’m gonna throw a bunch of stuff out here for discussion and to be corrected if doing something wrong.

I backed into acid degumming by searching for protein remediation. By adding 1 drop lime juice, then 50% volume of distilled water to the ISO wash, It does cause instant coagulation at room temperature. The part missed, is that the proteins also coagulate with the wax, so passing this thru a filter, you end up with very clean wash. 24hr Winterization in the freezer offers a little bit more wax, but nothing like the room temp with acid, distilled water.

The second picture shows a waxy protein ladden coffee filter. From empirical observation and tasting, the darker the proteins, the more cannabinoids are hijacked in this mix. I ate a bunch and got high as F$*@. Apparently the longer to settling time, the more cannabinoids are removed. (This needs formal testing…)

Anyone have similar experience?


A few questions about your process: is this a room temp extraction, and if so, did you do a brine wash beforehand?

The reason I ask is because I’ve found that if I try to dewax before a water wash, the dewaxing will take waaaaay longer to filter (standard 95% ethanol), I’m assuming because many water-soluble components begin to crash out, but form very small particles that are suspended and foul the filter. Used to take 24-36 hrs to filter, needed to be scraped off several times and was ‘wet’ with ethanol and now only takes 6ish hours and leaves a nearly dry cake of wax.

I’ve minimized the times I do citric acid degumming out of fear of isomerizing my CBD, but I wouldn’t be surprised if you pulled protein material into the mix.

Howdy, answers in order as asked, plus more…

Keep in mind all my answers are from exploring how to make a refined RSO at home. My process uses a double boiler to keep the temp down to around 180f to save terps. To your question -

Is this a room temp extraction? What you see above is a look at a warm wash jar, then winterized and filtered. I recommend QWISO & winterization, but have to handle the worst case scenarios of hour long soaks. Any soaks over a few minutes will include plant material. I’ve clarified using Alum successfully before finding Lime Juice. Moringa Seed Powder may also work.

If so, do you do brine wash? Yes, but not the way you’d expect. I wash in ISO, winterize, then pour the wash in a double boiler. The bottom pan is tap water, the wash goes in the top pan. I add 1 cup of brine to the top pan. Check out what happens when it gets hot. This was a small test run. This was an earlier run before the double boiler, thus ran much hotter…

The brine salts out the Isopropyl, then boils it off, leaving floating oil. Ta Da! Almost done… By controlling the heat of the double boiler, my wash never exceeds 185f; i try to keep it at 180f. This way, most of the terps can be saved.

After the ISO boils off, I place the top pan in the freezer till it nearly freezes. It doesn’t due to the salt saturation. The oils cling to the pan, and I can pour out the brine leaving the oil. Here’s an bigger run -

After that, I collect the oils by redissolving in EtOH, adding 1oz distilled water, then set in an oil bath do the final purge. As the EtOH evaporates, the water & oil separate. I place that back in the fridge to cool down, then pour off the water. The water carries away any remaining salts and water soluble plant material. Here’s a picture of the oil & water at the end of the first reduction.

Once the water is dumped, I redissolve in EtOH and let sit in the oil bath till the end. A Little Dipper Crock Pot is perfect for this. Its 35 watts and keeps a steady temperature around 180 degrees for the duration.

The reason I ask … will take waaaaay longer. I feel the pain. Freezing the wash increases the viscosity and the waxes plug up everything. Here’s my secret, you heard it first right here. I use a KN95 mask as my filter media, lined with a paper towel. Thats actually a paper towel you see in the prior post. N95/KN95s are rated to catch particulates down to 0.3 microns but allow fast flow! They can get plugged up quickly, so I always line them with a paper towel and that works pretty well. Best part, I can change out the paper towel in between pours. Here’s a couple pics.

I’m pretty much have completed the OP for home use. The wash with lemon juice, winterizing, distilling with brine, then doing a formal purge makes for a very robust procedure at home. By using ISO for the bulk extraction, then just a couple ounces of EtOH to clean up the final oil, this process becomes very inexpensive. By foregoing decarbing up front, the hottest temp will be 180f for the entire distilling, reduction and decarbing (10 hrs@180f) . This way, some terps can be saved.


Wow, I’m on the commercial side but I really commend your ingenuity on the home scale! A lot of very interesting, but intelligent steps as well. I see why you are doing room temp winterizarion due to lack of access to chillers. And a very intelligent move using a kn95. What material are they made of? The affinity of your filter media is as important as filter size, and it seems to pull a lot of green!

That’s not quite how it works, the suspended material will form different size particles depending how low the affinity is for the material, so viscosity doesn’t really apply. With traditional winterization, if you chill the mixture colder or let it sit, your suspended wax particles will grow as lipids (blanket term) fall out of solution (basically crystallize). If you have large particles, solution can pass through largely uninterrupted as it accumulates behind the filter because there is still a way for dissolved molecules to make their way. If your particles are too small, they will clog and foul your filter; this will happen if there’s too little chill time, or you have things helping keep lipids in solution; ie sugars helping waxes stay in solution during dewaxing.


I had an interest in a 70/30 etoh was and doing the same as this but with ethanol and balancing the pH after. Just never got around to it.

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@borysses reports 50% THC loss in 60% EtOH upthread.

actual analytics on what you’re filtering out would probably be informative.

have you played with TLC yet? it’s at least as quantitative as huffing/eating your samples.

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I don’t know if @Beaker was super on top of managing cannabinoid loss all the time, as everything was done on smallish scale and I don’t recall seeing many COAs involved.

I personally wouldn’t take most alcohol solutions below 70%, 80% is probably good pending on what you’re doing with it.

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he had a uv/vis spec that he used occasionally, but mostly he didn’t really care.

he wanted high potency, and he had fun getting there. losses along the way were mostly irrelevant unless he lost ALL of it. in which case he’d go back and try and find (some of) it.


You want 99% abv for the wash, then it doesn’t matter after you’ve tossed the biomass. At this point, water isn’t going to hurt, at least at my scale. 99% ISO denatures the plant protein differently than 70%. The higher water percent allows the ISO to penetrate and extract more unwanted plant material deeper inside the biomass. 99% causes the proteins to fold over the plant surface keeping the ISO on the outside. SO, by all means, use 99% to wash, then it can be diluted down stream.

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