Strong Sauce Tek after Washing buds (with water)


#21

Yeah my original thought on it was that it could increase fungus growth over the first few days of drying with the added moisture. But talking with a few people this morning about h2o2 diluted in distilled water for the first wash should kill off any fungus correct? (Thereby having less mold, PM) Then the baking soda and lemon juice to disinfect and wash. Seems like a great idea! Washing crops after harvest should be a no-brainer! I have been growing outdoors for many years and the past few have been so dry outside that the dust really kicks up late in the season and coats the flowers. Would love to see some side by side lab results from washed vs raw flowers for potency and microbial content


#22

maybe I’m reading this wrong…

you “dewax” by chilling your material column, then you add solvent?

that makes no sense!

One can pick up less epicuticular waxes by running cold solvent over cold material. so chilling ones biomass before adding solvent is better than just chilling ones solvent. but actual “dewaxing” is a separate step performed after the solvent has been introduced and removed from your biomass.

Single solvent dewaxing is done by chilling the cannabinoid laden solvent, and filtering or centrifuging out the waxes that precipitate.

Alternatively, one can remove the first solvent, redissolve in a second, and then perform exactly the same procedure (chill, then filter or spin).


#23

@cyclopath, you read correctly. I don’t have a separate chamber which I can dewax in, so I dewax by freezing the lipids in my material column, and then soaking tane for 30 mins all while still in the dry ice/ISO sleeve. It was my understanding this would be sufficient to keep the waxes/lipids in the plant material, but I’m learning otherwise. As a note, I’m a small time extractor doing this for personal use, and I don’t have access to industry standard equipment. I gotta say, the information on this site and input form you people have been an immense value to me.


#24

Thats what we do, just run as cold as you can.


#25

Here’s an update after today’s activities…

I took my jar of failed OSST and poured it into my catch can (pyrex dish) for my next extraction.

I figured, I’d just do another run of the same strain, and have double the yield. Big mistake… Redisolving the failed OSST in butane took foreverrrrr, but it eventually happened.

Here is my extraction column that holds about 150 grams of material

And my failed OSST run mixed with my recent extraction going about my regular shatter SOP


#26

sure, but you don’t label freezing your biomass as “dewaxing”.


#27

how long was that in the jar? What temps did it see?

it looks to still be bubbling. suggesting that more burps and more time might have been appropriate.

if the problem is that you’ve heated it too long and decarbed it, then yeah, it’s failed…but it’s not going to make shatter either.


#28

That was in the jar for 4 weeks. The first two weeks it was on a heating mat at 80 degs. Then I burped the jar and set the temps to 90 degs. I was afraid of a blow out as well as afraid of not having enough pressure (first timer here).

Do you think burping and letting it sit longer would have worked even with having fats in my jar?

Would seeding my jar with a diamond work even though I know there were fats in the jar to begin with?


#29

Seeding is a helpful learning tool, as well as a great production assistant.

If you drop a seed in, and it vanishes, what have you learned?

I’m assuming those temps are in F. I’m not sure what they would mean for ratio of thc to thca in your jar. Other than there will definitely be a measurable amount of thc.

Fats in your terps are just that. They make the sauce less appealing and harder to pour off, but should not inhibit thca’s ability to crystallize when it is in abundance (smaller crystals, and less complete crystallization of available substrate would be my expectations).

I don’t jar, and am under nda.


First try at diamonds, advice needed, please.
#30

Some the big guys say fatty loads make the biggest chunks!

I just can’t take those veggy terps to even try it

Hmmmm…this has me thinking can u winterize the terps w ETOH after a WAX Otss run to get them at least consumable?


#31

I went for my first patty flip and normally I’d have shatter by now but it is still goopy.

Might end up pull and snap consistency. How would you guys move forward from here? Flip the patty and move forward with purge or whip it up for crumble (if that is even possible now). Any other suggestions?


#32

If u blasted cold u can jar that now and get sugar terp mix…if not jar it’ll be wet butter,fats make it Autobutter instead sugary… garantee! Put stamp on it!

No way u decarb even at 100f

After looking back out that pour out…jar 2wks heat or not…80-90f makes happen faster…after u need to hit it all at -20 for couple days at 70-80f and u should get sugary live resin look!

My sop for years was ur exact method, even full vac Purge for hr @90 at first, then jar 2wks sometimes less 1.5. If still goopy without doubt u got terps which will make the crash even better crystals!

BTW blast w no soak and u will get extra beautiful stuff!


#33

I like sugary with terps!!! So just jar that goopy mixture and wait it out? Should I whip it up? Keep it at room temp? 80 degs (f) heat mat?


#34

No whip unless you want budder!

JUST JAR and Seal


#35

If you want to redissolve for otss tek, it helps to do a little warming up prior to adding butane, it still works you just get sand not huge Crystals, I’ve had 3 fail and that’s how I personally made it still work, just dont get it hot, warm till it visibly moves around so the butane doesn’t have to work so hard to dissolve, recrashing still makes sandy sauce but it works, recrashing is not necessary to be honest, once you warm it up the thca doesn’t crash right, the perfect time to cap is when the product still bubbles and moves like liquid just before it gets so saturated that the bubbles have color and are thick, if it gets to that point it’s over saturated and growth is less likely, I am yet to see, I scratch the jar with a concrete bit 1 maybe 2 times, use canning jars avoid the new ones that say smooth sides, you want the ones with designs or words, I’ve had a jar blow trust me there’s not one bit left usable once that happens, and if you’re unfortunate enough to be near it or have it in a vac oven, well that’s not what anyone needs to deal with, thats why I invested in diamond miners,(pressure vessels) good ppl on this site maybe sell them if you ask nicely :wink: > not me but super nice ppl


#36

Update on my batch… So I jarred the solution after my last post, and its been sitting at room temp, undisturbed for about 4 weeks. I see the sandy crystal formation as others have suspected would grow. Again the issue was too much fats due to soaking my material in tane, and not having a proper dewax system. Its looking pretty tasty to this first timer:

Since I don’t have a separate dewax column, will having a finer micron filter (say 25 micron instead of 100 micron) at the end of my material column help filter out fats? The material column would still be jacketed with dry ice/ISO mix and frozen for an hour before blasting.


#37

Yes freeze everything prior to running… Trust us…since no 2nd stage dewax blast fast and cold

Now as for the being nondewaxed won’t grow diamonds that’s not true…

The OP states will make some the largest diamonds w nondewaxed runs, just awful tasting terps…I’ve never tried as I can’t part w my flavor…

Fast cold no soak…10-15um plenty…

Btw ur run looks pretty good, did you cold crash

Can’t believe w that much SOLVENT,bc that’s a ton to be sealing up…and no slow evap stones

And ur filters just for particulate…blast fast and cold and leave as much as possible frozen in the column!


#38

Thanks for the input @StoneD. I actually didn’t cold crash this run. I don’t mind sealing in the jar with that much because I actually did a 24 hr full vacuum purge at 90 deg f, so there is very little butane if any in there.


#39

Good way to do it for sugar


#40

That’s so wrong man. They form better, larger, faster, “purer” the more polished your material is. The more compounds present, the harder it will be to form.