What would be the best way to make your bho lighter and more stable?
blow colder & suck harder
or use better input material.
here’s one opinion on how to blow colder…
sucking harder is left as an exercise for the reader…and might also qualify as sucking longer.
which can be translated (again) as “suck harder padawan”.
and as an added bonus, has 1k word substitute to illustrate the effect of “blowing colder”.
Yeah, gotta love that nuculation! It’s ok… personal slab…I’ll smoke it in a dark corner…
not sugaring is probably also an implicit part of the OP’s question…you got a preferred excuse for that slab?
some folks have suggested that too long in the oven, or too hot in the oven can cause this. others swear that material scraped onto the parchment is far more likely to nucleate than material poured out. I’ve seen evidence that the latter is true, and treat the pour separately if I care about the final consistency.
I have also seen relative humidity blamed for the problem. I definitely saw less butter/sugar once I was able to move my operation inside/out of the rain. I also watched a CO import struggle with nucleation when they hit Eugene. Something they rarely saw in Denver. At that point “inside” was not much different from outside once the doors were up and the fans were on. Things got better in July, which is when it stops raining around here. So I qualify as a believer on that one too.
pretty sure most of this is covered in Oven tek SOP criticisms welcome referenced above.
Na, my high ass left it in a 100f oven overnight. The oven is usually used to heat the Dimond miners, I just kinda tossed it in there and forgot about it. was making a small run of personal med at the end of the day yesterday. That’s where I was goofing around with hot vs cold.
does that fall under “too long in the oven”?
Perhaps too hot? It was squirted out the bottom drain on my jacketed platter rather violently.
I personally have found that dewaxing usually helps with slab stability.
Be it in-line or second solvent (aka winterization).
More importantly, it reduces the amount of non-target molecules (fats & waxes) your users are huffing, and hence reduces impairment in lung function.
If the object of the game is to make translucent, pale amber glass, you need to extract cold, and winterize. you’ll loose terps. but that is deliberate. you’ll gain stability.
if material has specific terpenes, or just high terpenes in general, it may not harden up till you cold boil some of them off.
IMO the real object of the game is to hit an acceptable solvent level while retaining a faithful representation of the terpene profile from the flower. Terpenes are solvents, and different terpenes are going to effect the viscosity of your oleoresin to a greater or lesser extent.
You can force a live resin to form shatter, but you’ve almost certainly wrecked an excellent extract to achieve that if you do.
Winterization. Not an easy or safe process. My understanding is you heat ethenol to about 88 degrees dump the wax in mux until completely disolved then freeze as cold as possible for 48hours. Then run through coffee filters to remove wax. Then evaporate the alcohol. Repeat if needed. This is just regurgitating what ive read. The People really doing this right are artists and props to them for setting the new standard and trying to keep us all healthy happy & high.
It is very safe and easy to perform.
yeah, but that’s what you said about putting jars of butane in my freezer
Yep, performed per SOP it is safe and effective.
except if you start by heating your solvent above it’s boiling point (78oC).
88oF is only warmish…although well above the flash point, and depending on how you get it there could still be a bad idea™.
Warming the extract helps, but isn’t strictly necessary in my experience.
Not in the freezer per say, when the jars build pressure with the lid on. That’s the dangerous part. Etoh doesn’t make much vapor at that low of a temp. I’m not saying you should forgo an explosion proof freezer, winterization with Etoh is pretty safe compared with a solvent distillation.
Like I said just regurgitatin. No one really answered his question so it was a start. I knew you OCD potheads would chime in with the specs. Spread the wealth and by wealth I mean knowledge
There are a bazillion ways to dewax effectively. Here is a run I just did. My process this month will utilize counter current seperation later in the refinement chain which will use hexane, methanol, and water. So this month for dewaxing I went to methanol which really goes to town on pulling out the waxes and DNA and gunk. This month the added benefit is that the compound is then already in methanol and counter current seperation of the terpenes and such can proceed without an intermediate step.
Here is the steps I used this month for dewaxing:
- disolve the compound in pure methanol. Let sit in freezer at -7C overnight.
- I first put a layer of alumina into the Büchner funnel and packed it then packed a small layer of silica gel 60 to use as a simple filtration media. Silica gel can form a colloidal with methanol which can allow some to pass but this is of no concern here because of the later refinements which will remove any gel beads if they do pass the filter. Silica gel when packed is effective as a filter. Here it is before the vacuum was applied and the column was packed. I use a handheld massage wand to vibrate the powder under vacuum and it becomes level and tightly packed then. No protection for the gel is needed as this is a filtration mode only.
- I pull it all through with a chemical duty diaphragm pump set on a low vacuum. The filter loads up fast with wax and the solvent passes very slowly as the wax builds up on top of the gel. It is easy to boil the methanol inside the filter with too much vacuum so only just enough vacuum was applied to keep the stuff running.
No sand layer is needed on top of the gel to prevent disturbing the surface when pouring the compound in because this is a filtration. So the top becomes a bit uneven and the gel mixes a bit with the alumina.
- Flush the column with pure methanol. Keep pulling until the column is dry (15 minutes or so). Tweezers then easily recover the wax components from the filter top. As a first step this is hyper easy to do.
Here is the last of the methanol being pulled down through the filter column.
Final results. The more stuff I can pull out at each step the closer to absolute purity I get. The waxes I will refine seperately into very pure stuff (it is like lotion feeling).
The waxes can act as an anti oxidant if you add them back in at the right stage of refinement but this is not the plan this month.
Nice write up.
I noticed to much heat+too long in oven = nucleation
but i think it was moisture in the biomass/solvent really making it sugar up. we started drying all our material before processing it. this removed tons of terps, and converted a 5-10% THC, but it gave us shatter every time. (along with cold solvent/columns)
I also believe terps=soft slabs. If distillate is hard at room temp, what is making shatter soft? Must be the light terpenes?
Update: Use an AC with your dehumidifier. I am getting 3% conversion to THC and nice sappy turpz
None have any input re.ally? What’s up with this jsite just disinformation