Degum and scrub first pass distillate

I have 650 ml of distillate run once through short path. I want to degum → winterize → dry (hot) scrub with t-41 and/or hardwood charcoal.

Before


After

Before the first pass using 200 proof ethanol, i winterized, then wet scrubbed with hardwood charcoal then dry scrubbed with t-41

Stop me if i go astray. I have the degumming enzyme from carbon chemistry. Im going to use a seperatory funnel to mix a 1:1 heptane : distillate solution and then wash it with a low pH brine over and over again until its clean.

What is the best way to lower the pH here? Does it change the ph of my heptane/distillate solution and if so how do I change it back before i rotovap it down?

Then I will winterize. Can i use less of a carrier for this second pass winterization? Because there will be less wax to remove? I used 10:1 for the first pass winterization and scrubbing. Maybe this is not necessary i just figure why not to just to see what happens. Also i did the first winterization in the deep freezer at maybe -10F. Im thinking of doing it this time with dry ice to go down to at least -50F

Is 200 proof ethanol the best thing to use for this (winterization, charcoal scrub, bleaching)? I also have 200 proof denatured with heptane and i also have 99.5% heptane

What carrier solvent is best to use for the hot scrub/wet scrub? What is the best ratio of solvent to use? Does the ratio for solvent for carbon/clay scrubbing change from first pass to second pass? Is there a reason to use more carrier solvent? It just takes longer to recover and im trying to cut all my corners where its prudent.

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200 proof is not a good solvent for winterizing compared to 190 or even isopropyl

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I have 99.9% iso. Is 95% iso better?

I didnt know 200 proof wasnt optimal. Why not?

I do know when i used to make amber glass it would always come out a lighter color if I used 151 to winterize instead of 190. The 190 would cook off much faster and i assumed the extra water in the 151 would be like a buffer and make it less caustic possibly? I dont really know the science behind it

More crap will crash out of the solution with the added water

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And ISO 190 proof is better than ISO 200 proof? i will add distilled water to my 200 proof iso to make it 190? Will that water freeze in winterization? Does that change how I recover in the solvent in the evaporator?

Is ethanol optimal for the charcoal scrub and/or clay bleaching? Does it change if you scrub wet or dry?
Is 200 proof or 190 better for this? Sorry for all the newb questions.

The search bar is a very useful tool!(:

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Thanks for the direction.

Those are all great threads i just have to keep on reading ive been doing it for months now over and over

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If you find that reading is overwhelming, there are people like myself who can help consult if you throw us a bone

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so Ive been reading the forums as a full time job here for the last month. I’ve learned a few things.

needless to say you get out what you put into it.

i’m grateful to be part of a community like this.

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Just be safe as you further your skills.

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My next step is building out a lab in a commercial space. I’m currently in the research phase and will gear towards production in a newly outfitted facility.

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What do you consider a bone bud i would like to get some info and woukd be haolybto for the right price

Just let me know what youd like