Butter/Budder/Batter/Badder

Whatever you may call it: how exactly is it made? I’ve honestly only ever really made live resin diamonds/sauce but a customer wants me to make batter. I’m under the impression that it’s just purged hot and whipped with air. I read I may need to leave lipids in but my system doesn’t really allow for it since I passively extract with co2. What’s the best way to make the stuff?

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Welcome!

Your understanding of the tek seems on point from my reading. Good for you for going passive too.

At the risk pissing some folks off, I’m going to state that whipping is essentially ghetto tek that was developed to achieve better solvent removal without the aid of vac ovens. As such it’s not a method I’ve bothered exploring, so I can’t confirm that leaving the waxes it is strictly speaking necessary.

I would certainly agree that retained waxes are more common in “labs” lacking vacuum ovens. As are absurdly high purge temps.

Attempt to mollify those that whip:
Many folks with appropriate equipment do have problems with strains that spontaneously butter or sugar, and it certainly makes sense to get ahead of those strains and initiate the buttering deliberately by whipping.

And some customers want batter…

If the customer wants it, it should certainly be achievable. Way easier than delivering shatter for strains that just don’t wanna go there for you.

I would grab some extract produced per your SOP, then play with whipping a gram or 5 to get a feel for how it’s going to work. it can absolutely be done on finished product. If it were me, I’d only whip a gram of the customers stuff too, until they had actually sampled both styles… but I don’t have quite the tact others do.

Not that I’m recommending leaving your waxes in there, but I’m not sure I understand why you can’t leave them in there with your setup.

For passive recovery, you need a warm receiver, and a cold solvent tank to drive solvent from the receiver to the solvent tank. There is no requirement for a cold product column, or cold extraction solvent to start. Those are just a good idea from a finished product stand point (and probably not necessary for budder).

Perhaps you could elaborate on your system a little?

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I’ve actually never produced anything besides live resin diamonds and the occasional pull & snap.

I run a CLS with 2 solvent tanks, liquid CO2 cooled. So we can push room temp or slightly chilled solvent the first run, but after run 1, our solvent is pretty cold since we are using CO2 to drive passive recovery. I could potentially just recover with minimal CO2, and use a hotter recovery bath, and just wait longer. But that disturbs my team’s tight production schedule.

So, I take it, I should try to run less cool solvent as possible, do a slightly longer than normal soak, recover, then essentially vacuum purge, maybe 100-105F, after solvent is gone, whip up and agitate my jar as much as possible? I have a laboratory homogenizer to introduce air and “whip”, but my first attempt just left me with a runny opaque sauce. All our material is fresh frozen, so might be too terpene heavy to create a stable batter?

Your suspicion that your rig & tech are too good for that is correct.

If they provided you with top notch material, fresh frozen per your SOP, then do them a favour and do it right.

Then politely show your customer the difference. along with 3rd party or in house analytics if you can. if you’ve solve it on a small scale, you can always convert the rest of their material on demand if they insist.

IF you’re going to achieve it (again only destroy a fraction of your superiour product) you need to loose most of the terps.

Adding a hot plate to your whip will facilitate this. The homogenizer is probably overkill. maybe aiming in the 120F region?!? no clue.

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Jars? You need more surface area. Pyrex dish

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Most hate it where I’m from, frown upon, I stumbled upon trying to make shatter without any direction… Doesn’t really matter the temp, you can keep low to retain terps might just take lil longer…

Just leave the vac on, vac chamber motor running, vac oven motor running, full vac, the more it’s pumping the faster it’ll happen, you can flip or stir the mixture and just leave the motor running,

It will happen EVERY TIME,… Or at least I think, I had some take over a day, I thought I was gonna get a live resin consistency was the plan,… Budder nothing but over purged bho

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I want to start with stating that this tek is not passable by any tests and is far from the healthiest choice. With that being said, I have shops that request this product and so I deliver.

I run a CLS, using passive recovery, and no dewaxing for this product. I let my solvent tank (100% butane isomers) sit in a dry ice/iso mix for 20-30 minutes before starting my runs. My hot water bath (for recovery) is set at 90-95 degrees (depending on ambient temperature). I end the run around -7 inHg. At this point, I transfer the BHO to parchement paper. I put the BHO im a food dehydrator at 115 degrees for 30 minutes minimum. At this stage, you are looking for large bubbles to surface. Generally takes 30-60 minutes. Under-doing it at this stage is better than over-doing it. I then put the BHO+parchment into a carboard box (to avoid collecting moisture) and into my standard 0 degree freezer. Once its frozen, I remove the BHO from the parchment paper and place it onto a 12" x 20" piece of glass and whip it until its fluffy (takes some practice). The tool I use is an all-stainless-steel scraper but anything sanitary can be used as long as it can handle butane. Once whipped, I seperate them into 30g “cookies” and place those on individual pieces of parchment paper (made from cutting a circlular piece of parchment paper into 4 equal pieces and folding the cornered edges to create a wall). I then place these in the food dehydrator at 115F for 30 mins (15 mins I rotate 180 degrees to avoid it running off the paper). I then remove from food dehydrator, place back into freezer, and then repeat the whipping process.

It takes a little practice to understand when its going to “finish”. Once its done, I place into a seperate dehydrator at 95F and let it sit for 2-3 hours to pull remaining solvent.

If you are doing this for a client, whip up a small 5g-10g cookie as a test for that batch to see when it will finish. All material is different. Some take 2 whips while others may take 4 or 5.

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I have made a lot of Butter/Budder/Batter/Badder with dried and frozen material and it is one one the best ways for post processing frozen material. I ran a Emotek Obe2 active (passive is fine as well) 100% n-butane. I would chill the solvent via dry ice, but if you’re running frozen material it will get cold anyway. I would be careful with too warm of solvent as you could get more moisture in your extract from frozen material. Soak it, time is dependent on how warm your solvent it, colder solvent allowing for a longer soak. I usually did around 5-10 minutes. Recover solvent, temperature doesn’t matter all that much, lets just say the same as you would for shatter. Recover solvent longer than you would to pour out shatter, but do not muffin it in there. Scrape it out, or however you do, into a borosilicate glass casserole dish like 10" x 13" (pyrex can work but boro is better).

Now for the fun part. Bring the dish with extract over to a hot plate, you’ll want one that is explosion resistant as there still will be solvent fumes coming off the extract (link to something like it below, kinda small IMO). The hot plate should be around 100 - 120f, again with the colder temperature taking longer but preserving terpenes. Next you will need something to whip with, something wide, like a wide putty knife type tool (picture below). Choke up on the handle and hold the blade part, if you try to use it like a paint brush you’ll kill your wrist. As the extract is on the hotplate you will see it bubbling as the solvent escapes, you want to accelerate that process and agitate the extract by whipping it. Like @OilArt said, it takes practice. I whip by using my tool to move all the extract to one side of the dish then, with your tool, pull just the very edge of the puddle into a thin film across the empty portion of the plate, as you move through to the back of the puddle you will pull the extract over its self. You will see the solvent react as you agitate the extract. Turn the plate since all the extract will be on the other side and repeat. You don’t need to continuously whip, you can flatten it out and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Continue to whip and settle as needed. After some of the solvent is removed the extract will become more viscous and will want to dry out. As the extract is drying and there is no more solvent reaction, you need to use your tool to ball it up and scoop it up and smear it onto a piece of parchment paper, spread it to be about 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick, less passes is best, you may need to do a second scoop, use another paper. Takes lots of practice.

Most frozen material will never really dry out on you, most dry material will, if you go too long the extract becomes crumble. Nothing wrong with crumble, some people like it, can be high potency with less retention of terpenes. I’ve whipped 0ppm and easily get below 20ppm. You could use a vac oven on a lower temperature for an hour or two to by some insurance, it will hurt the terpenes. Allow it to cool and settle and ready for test in 24 hours.

https://www.thermofisher.com/order/catalog/product/HP11515B?SID=srch-srp-HP11515B

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Any idea how moxie gets there flat smooth looking badder ?

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Most likely they whipped it until it was almost done but still runny. Then put it into the vac oven at about 115f over night to dry it out and harden it. Sometimes you will get honeycomb texture as it dries out if it doesn’t settle down.

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Here’s why I think it’s just over purged bho esstionally… Here’s what I would get, over time over if purged longer with heat at 90 gets drier, have wet pics and dry, I never fluffed it up though as I thought I was already fluffy, I found this out accident trying to make shatter not knowing how long to purge, after days it would start a swirl that favored nucleation… But would always budder, thought I was making live resin as the resin I saw at time was always dry crystals… Boy was I wrong, hundred tries later I finally got Sauce,I was always so close but so far away.

IMG_20171202_071629

Btw I don’t make anymore, no one wants around here

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We have a simple process that hasn’t failed us.
First, do you process any Cured Material or are you focused primarily on Live Resin runs?
We stick to Cured material primarily, as this our preference but this still should help. 1.) Try starting with a regular pour and purge in your oven at your regular temp/time (we keep it at 78-82 degrees around 72 hours depending on consistency). By now we would have a nice stable shatter consistency, if this is a very terpy run it might be a little sappier thus harder to work with (we use a cold oven sheet under it so it’s easier to handle). 2.) Now that your product has been purged of residuals it is ready for the next step. Take the slab and literally crumple it into a ball, start twisting it up, pull at it back and forth consistently. If this is a sappier run try a cold tray under what your material is on so you can work with it(careful not to let the heat from your hands cause the slab to stick to your gloves). If that does not work, or you know this is what you’re going to start with, you can also transfer it or do your initial pour to pryrex and do the old “whip“ technique (usually a last resort, always purge before as residuals can and will get trapped in your budder if you try this with out purging). 3.) Now continue step 2 until you see your material turn from a clear consistency into a vibrant gold one from twisting and turning at it. Repeat those steps as long as you feel necessary (the more you make, the more you know). 4.) At this point you should have a nice taffy looking like material. Flatten that out into a nice thin pancake, and turn you oven on anywhere from 90-110 (lower temps will take longer, but room temp is possible to achieve this) and w/o vac, leave it in the oven closed, uncovered, until you achieve a nice stable budder!
Tips: Depending on what your starting with, you may have to take it out of the oven every hour or so, and repeat the 2nd and 3rd step we described above until this happens. From our experience, the more stable the product you start with, the faster the overall process happens. Pro tip, the more you repeat step 2, is how we achieve a smooth consistency with no bubbles. If you decide to do step 2 only a couple times and throw it in the oven, the process will most likely still work, but it might not be as light of a color, or as nice of a consistency overall. Attached some pictures showing the material in different phases start to finish. Best of luck. Follow us on Instagram @OilExtractions :facepunch:

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gonna give this a try this weekend. Thanks! Your pics look fire as fuck!

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that Taffy picture is absolutely beautiful! :hugs:

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Thank you for the kind words!

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passive is the only way!

thank you for this !!!

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Why is passive the only way?

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Your welcome! Follow us on Instagram @OilExtractions :facepunch:

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I looked at your ig, there is some nice work in there. What does your passive do that an active can’t? Our extractors run passive tank to tank with n2 assist, we use a pnumatic recovery pump to move the assist gas and scavenge residual hydrocarbons. I don’t see how pumping would affect the product.

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