Any tips for how to do that when filling carts? Other than working in a glove box lol? It’s been said on here, several times, that proper degumming can eliminate the red ring entirely? Any truth to this? I tried degumming with the phospholipase enzyme once. The SOP called for stirring the hydrated enzyme into cannabis oil under a temp of like ~40C or something. I found this to be basically impossible to stir at this temperature. I’ve been meaning to revisit the procedure but by stirring the hydrated enzyme into a solution of cannabis oil and solvent (ethanol or heptane), but I’m not convinced that that wouldn’t denature the enzyme.
Maybe I shouldnt post pics of what my client just made then either, if folks are stealing water clear pics I don’t wanna post all the shit I’ve been up to 
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Maybe try this method: Where to source this* jar - #58 by SidViscous
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Easy peasy. Ph Stablize your oil b4 u distill. Backfill with argon and fill carts in argon glove box.
Ive been getting pretty good results without the glovebox lately.
This is almost a month old, 8% cannabis terps, viton gaskets are awesome for water clear carts btw. These were made on Oct 26th. (Back when i used to do the inert glovebox tek ive gotten carts to stay clear for over a year.)
If u get the red ring, try warming it up a bit.
I also have another tester in my shed outside (45F) and its not showing any red aswell. Usually cold, humid environments will make the red show up faster
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I have noticed that oil stored in the fridge develops the red ring quicker than oil at room temp.
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have not gotten the ring with PTSA - never mind talking about d9 not d8 lol
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If u bring those carts into a warm room, theres a chance the red ring goes away
@tetramethylsilane i actually think theres something in first pass oil that acts like a antioxidant.
When i get water clear on first pass, it usually stays that way with maybe a small 1mm red ring on top.
If i get water clear after post processing my first pass (instead PP my crude) i get a much higher chance of getting oxidation issues.
I believe the trick is to depigment but not necesarrily get a 99.999% thc fraction. (If that makes sense) But i have had first pass come out 99% tac and show the anti oxidant properties, so u dont need much (of my imaginary fraction). Just a hunch from talking to people who make water clear d9
This is all based on a SPD setup, wipers probably work differently (i have no experience with wipers)
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Do you have any experience with degumming, specifically using phospolipase enzymes, and the affect it has on preventing the red ring? Is LLE the most important factor when it comes to preventing the ring? That and inert storage?
I’ve noticed similar things with 1st pass Vs 2nd. With yellow oil. 1st pass color stays consistent, 2nd pass gets the ring.
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I have no experience using that enzyme because i too was skeptical of it working in a solvent.
However, when i was doing the glove box method (about 1.5 years ago i think) i didnt do any LLE, i just attempted to balance the ph with the medias i used in the column. Now i LLE and it seems to help with lessening the fats/heads fraction and the oxidation.
Back then i didnt know about b80, so i was just using T5, silica, magsil (cheap version) and activated alumina (coarse grind on top).
Now i use, b80, t5, silica, magsil pr (expensive version) and activated alumina.
I did have an easier time balancing with the cheap magsil but i believe it was eating some of my cannabinoids, the rest pretty much wash the cannabinoids clean with more clean solvent while reraining some pigments. I also stopped using activated carbon for the same reason (cannabinoid lose)
If anyone wants to try the glovebox method, i really did just rig up an upside down walmart container with argon gas piped in with a hole cut in and 2 big 4 inch holes to attach the gloves into. It was a pain the ass compared to the new cart farm method, but it did make some really nice heady water clear carts u can put on ur trophy shelf. I loaded everhthing i needed in then blew gas in for about 2 mins then slow the gas down and worked as quick as possible
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Is that pure d9 though?
For anaerobic work, I would rather advise using simple glovebags, equiped with a paladium catalyst (a fan blowing on a cage of Pd/Al pellets) m, and filled with a mix of N2 with 3-6% H2. It is much cheaper than using argon, and much more efficient for reaching anaerobia very easily.
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That clients is running d8 there, but I just ran 97% d9 myself under a different reaction, with no d8 present % maybe 2.5%cbd at most to be consumed still 
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T5 and b80 are closer to 5 or so. Never at or around neutral. Highly acidic.
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Water soluables do that. They are sorta rotting in place is you call it that.
wow thats impressive, thanks for the tips dawg much appreciated.
always thought it had something to do w/ pH. recently distilled some clear oil that tested TAC 99.89, 95.4% d9-THC. no isomerization of d9 → d8, however I did see some small amounts of d10 present. edit so it’s like, there’s not much left in the matrix to lead to a color change. while maybe possible, i find it a lil hard to believe that residual 0.11% is fucking the color up.
then i did some more digging, and requested chromas for some older runs that were strictly production so to say. saw some d10 in there as well.
the argon box is a great way to mitigate color issues. now i just wonder what sort of patience the packaging dept. has.
also @tetramethylsilane I have also noticed that cold environments cause the red ring to appear faster, which makes no sense to me. you’d figure w/ a slowing of molecular movement it’d happen later rather than sooner.
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@Cheebachiefextracts is a God dam 
!! Lol I’m working on scaling up a 97%D9 ND-D8 reaction as we speak
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Thank you brother 
& the company I’m now with knows they got themselves a too 
I’ll be doing my d8 next round I’m up there next week & send off to @kcalabs for the trophy 
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Its crazy but Color can start showing itself around 3ppm
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here’s the result i ended up w/
ignore the stupid ass lyrics, wish i got a better video but this is the only one.
resolubilize in etOH, defatted at -80c very well over activated alumina, hot c-scrub over DE to a sub micron, LLE w/ neutral water only, then poured solution over magsil that was stacked on top of DE. sub micron again to prevent any bullshit from getting into my pot
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