Nice big sizes available too, was getting excited thought they might have a 6"er. I hate the look of the common material tube hangers. The swagelok hangers are reasonably priced if ya only need a couple too, $13CAD for a half inch hanger and two rail nut mounts.
Found a slightly used swagelok 1/2" bender for $250 recently too, Im slowly leveling up…
Damb im super impressed with what you did with those kegs! Did you have any issues during welding with the thicker basemetals of the fittings? Warping of the keg material?
I want to swap all my fittings and guages now.
Keg to triclamp ferrule is certainly not a beginner trick, but the guy who has done all my kegs to this point has been doing it for years. https://synergybrew.com/
The guy I’m working with now is also a welding instructor, so I do most of the setup myself, and then watch how he stitches it all together.
I’ve been using a hot glue gun (mig welder) for years, but am still a long way from running anything I’ve tig welded, even with ethanol.
Open root is always a bit of a bitch but thinwall especially. Need plenty of backpurge to get that wedding band.
Cheater’s trick that works in a 4" or bigger: fusion weld the inside, then use a whiz wheel to gouge down from the outside and fill. Saves you having to weld open root full penetration but it costs an extra inspection if you’re an ASME shop which is why you’ll never seen it done this way professionally.
I ended up buying a nice little Miller tig setup ive been playing with. Ive been applying the majority of the heat on the thicker fitting metal and dragging the puddle to the base plate before adding the filler rod. It comes out pretty nice. Not a professional by any means and still afraid to use anything I’ve welded on my setup:laughing: I’d like to get my welding skills up to Par with cycopaths welds. There nice and clean, no gouges with a clean even bead. Then I can start building some shit
For critical welds, beveling to similar thickness is usually advised if possible. Regardless, full penetration to the root of the thinner material is necessary. Once the root is full pen it’s usually not much of an issue, but for tricky material I’ll grind the tip of the filler to a point and actually start the arc there. The issue with starting the puddle on the thicker part is that the other edge will have a tendency to retreat like a frenchman.
That is a cross bore for a pin closure on a 20L 30ksi pressure vessel that I bored on a 1996 Leadwell VMC with a bad spindle taper to a 16 finish. That was interrupted because the ~50" bore also needed to be +/- .0005 and 16 rms
Agreed. I run a tigperfect on my ESAB and it was the best $100 I ever spent. Couldn’t do .020 tube to tube sheet without it I don’t think and I don’t care to find out
Only because I’m too cheap for a real pulse setup lol. Did the trick. Combined it with an old lathe chuck, a treadmill motor, and a stepdown gearbox and made a pretty sweet orbital welder out of it too