I’ve wanted a dynasty since they came out, such great machines. Alas, I am too broke and weld too well on an old syncrowave to buy one (this will be one of my primary “you have arrived” purchases).
Our “orbital” did to have auto feed unless you consider our intern diligently dipping away for 30 minutes with 57 pieces of filler tacked together lol. It was hacky AF but it still passed UT.
Hey great machine as well, I’m sure it rocks with the tigperfect!
Definitely a great machine. Great 1st machine for anyone looking to get into some real tig welding (@cyclopath). I think I got mine with two torch sets and a water cooler for $1200 off Craigslist, needed nothing but the spark gaps adjusted. I’m self taught and it was my first non-china/thumb control machine and I was blown away how much time I wasted welding with a piece of shit briefcase welder lol
What do you guys think of this one?
I was thinking of grabbing it.
Looks well featured. 140A is not gonna cut it for any heavy welding so don’t plan on using it on 120v (although you could probably still do these tank ferrules and such). Only thing I see is it lists HF start but not continuous HF which you would want for any aluminium work. Inverter is much nicer than transformer generally, so that’s a plus. No personal experience (honestly I’ve only ever seen their hoods). If it welds well then it’s a way better deal than my syncrowave lol. Welders are a bit like a guitar or a car: there’s something more than the specs and you like what you like. I’d see if you could get a demo and see if you like it
Thanks bro! So if I wanted to get into welding the kind of stuff we use i would need more than 140 amps and continuous HF? It seemed like a pretty good deal when I was searching around for ac/dc welders!
Thanks for taking a look bro! Im not sure I could get a demo locally but when im ready ill look more into it!
For what we do honestly you don’t need continuous HF (or even AC) but if you ever want to do aluminum it’s something to look at.
Let’s put it this way on the amperage: I generally tack at. For multipass welds or anything .120+ I usually root around there. For hot pass and cover I’ll run 165 and for large fillets (i.e. fitting to triclamp cover) I’ll run 185. So you could get it done with 140 but it’ll be pretty inconvenient. If you’re doing something like butt welding a ferrule to tubing or a keg it’ll be okay but you’ll be near tapped out.
It’s also worth noting that you’re gonna want a water cooled torch at some point pretty quickly and you can’t weld at 165A for more than maybe 5-10 minutes without worrying about frying an air cooled set (and no torch set is “cheap”).
All that said, you’re not gonna do better on 110. Odds are, wherever you want to weld you could get yourself 220 if you’re willing to do a little bit of electrical. Fuck, I welded with like 240A on trigas for a year or two with the wires hooked directly into the bus bar in my barn lol (I don’t advise this).
Other one I’m not sure about is how much the pulse might help you. On my machine which is a transformer unit, there’s a ton of stored power so when I run 4-8hz at 30% D.C. and 40% background, I’m using way less power than 165A on average and the breaker never sees 165A, I’m not sure if an inverter will “bank” the power the same way though.
Always super excited to see someone get into welding so I’m happy to lend my (mostly unqualified) opinion
Damn thank you!! I didnt even think of going water cooled although I saw the option! Knowing I’d only be able to do 5 or 10 mins without I didnt know!! Ill just go water cooled when I do it then.
Yea I have a 240 plug in my garage I could use! Ive wired up so many damn grows throughout the years as the un official electrician I can easily do a 240 if I needed to luckily!
Haha thats insane you did it straight off the bar in the barn! I love hearing stories like that it makes me know we all started somewhere! God knows ive done some stupid sketchy shit with electricity in my days lol.
Thanks again bro im still looking at options and stuff so im sure ill have another question in the future!
I do still have an old #9 torch that came with the syncrowave which I did successfully weld with at 185 for a whole multistory spiral staircase and a bulldozer with a cracked frame (this was back before I learned that stick welding was a thing). It isn’t “broken” but its a bit like wielding a torch on the end of a broomstick its gotten so stiff lol. So you don’t need water cooling but you will eventually get there.
Other tips; get a spark plug insulator set from your local parts store and use it to insulate your pinky/ring finger so it doesn’t burn while resting on your part
Also, since you seem somewhat handy, torch chillers are not complicated (literally just a pump, reservoir, and radiator) so if you do want to run a WC18 (probably the world’s most common torch), don’t let the cost of a water cooler hold you back
Haha damn! Yea ive only done basic welding stuff I like the idea of being able to fabricate my own stuff though! Welding is such a good skill to have.
Thanks for the tip ill make sure I grab a set so my fingers are comfortable!
Ill check into the water cooling side of welding I havent seen that much so it would be good to see what it consists of.
I have a window unit ive been wanting to make into a chiller anyways 
might just be another reason to do it!
It will work for thin ss, don’t plan on alu.
Like @SidViscous mentioned it will stick most of the sanitary stuff your doing together , you might max it out on some thicker stuff, or if your pulsing and you don’t have your background turned up enough 
your lungs will thank you as well, non cooled torches make some nasty hot argon that will hurt your lungs.
For anyone looking at compression fittings, try Hy-Lok, they’re based in Canada.
I just ordered a bunch of fittings, totalling about $1000 CAD. If I’d ordered exactly the same fittings from McMaster they would have cost me $2400 CAD.
So they’re pretty good value.
Tyloc makes some cheaper fittings as well.
IMO McMaster has some fantastic selection and I love their catalog, but if you can get it elsewhere like from Zoro or eBay it’s usually much cheaper. Grainger is the same way.
Yeah sometimes there is major McMaster tax on things… but I know if I order it today it will be here tomorrow or the next day at latest, even to Canada.
Though on more than one occasion I’ve been unable to find pricing better than what McMaster charges, so sometimes they’re not all that bad.
Grainger is shameless. McMaster it’s kinda like ULine, you pay extra but you get quality and you get it the next day.
Grainger is often 1.5x to 2x more than McMaster and not as well organized of a company for sure!
I get fittings off ebay but you gotta watch out for the source. Sometimmes they are used from an old building engineers toolbox
When it comes to high pressure stuff, I only buy new.
There aren’t a lot of areas that I apply that philosophy, but high pressure is one of them.
ive bought used swagelok inadvertently off ebay. got my refund but now i do have ebay sources that sell new for a discount. these presures arent even high but its the cold temps that fuck it up. A trucks tire valve holds 120 psi all day… Some cars have 60 lbs turbo boost and hold it in.
Just needed to cross link this one: it puts the cannabis in the tube...how does it connect them?
It is a link to a tutorial on compression fittings…