Happy to clarify things for you regarding this and your concerns:
We are not Rosinberg or Rosin Press NY. We are a family business based out of Philly
So regarding Rosinberg, he reached out to us about 2.5-3 years when we first started posting on reddit and made an account. He was an admin of the r/rosin subreddit at the time and he said he really liked our brand. So then he just wanted to promote us and put us in his recommended equipment list you see there. We didn’t know anything about this negative stuff you mentioned back then. We have not heard from him since then as he just seemed to not be online anymore. He has not changed that recommendations list you see on the website for 3 years since we last spoke with him and have not even had a conversation since
No we are not affiliated with Rosin Press NY in anyway
Very interested here, what is asking price / model details. We capture viscosity measurements by measuring the torque needed to move our pump motor, but haven’t been able to curve-match to real-world viscosity measurements.
The hash rosin disposables I posted a video of where great until they grew diamonds in the tanks and clogged. Lmao! Definitely a learning curve. I took on this experiment to finally have a challenge. I’ll share what I’ve learned and I hope that is helps someone else because it cost me a lot of money to learn all of this.
You can’t cheap out on rosin carts or produce them for cheap what so ever. You must start with 5-6 star input material. Find the absolute best hash rosin you can get your hands or press some. I say this because things like flower rosin and lower grade hash rosin tend to have more fats and lipids creating a bigger challenge to get that thinner consistency and flower rosin and lower quality hash rosin have a burnt popcorn taste most of the time especially after decarb. A true 6 star hash will melt and decarb better.
All strains vary there will never be a standard sop for rosin decarb unless you have the same input material every time. This is why I judge it off the quality of the rosin instead of the strain because the biggest rosin pen producers couldn’t even tell u a sop for strains because there’s hundreds of thousands of strains out there. You have to have a eye for this shit.
If your using lower quality rosin in my opinion go ahead and do the standard 220F decarb until there is a small amount of bubbles.If the quality isn’t there to begin with then loosing terps really doesn’t matter tbh… then re introduce some canna terps after it’s decarbed. Don’t use a liquidizer or BDT. Add 4% canna terps.
If your using 5-6 star live rosin decarb at 150F for 24-48 hours. Or if your like me and can’t wait…. Decarb at 190F for 6-8 hours. Make sure your mason jar is roughly the same size as the material you put in it. You want your material to take up around 40% of your sealed jar. But no more than 50% of the jar. I highly recommend putting a mag stir at the bottom of your jar before decarb. About halfway through your heat cure take the jar out of your oven and run the mag stir for 5-10 minutes with the lid off. This gets all the natural co2 out of the hash rosin. Co2 can cause rapid bubbles and foamy carts!! Immediately put the lid back on and continue your decarb process. I know your supposed to retain the terps and keep the lid on at all times but if someone else knows how to remove the co2 without taking the lid off/mag stir please share.
Once fully heated put your jar in a cool space and let get to room temperature. This will ensure that it won’t thicken back up once cooled off again. And it retains terps. Once all this is done… cart up
My head space is close to 98%, so I’m way ahead on what @MondoLabs was saying. Shoot even 50 percent like you were saying is way too small in my opinion.
Have also shared pictures of the devices I’m using, posted the temps and times , and bought up issues encountered since then.
I’ve also tried to get the appropriate math into every thread it belongs in.
So fuck off with the
I’m trying to keep glass outta peoples faces. At this point I don’t care how you personally want to perform this trick because you’ve demonstrated you’re to cool to math. Might look cool too once you’re wearing an eye patch…
I don’t HAVE a “standard” operating procedure to share, because imo I’m not doing it right yet.
Neither are you if you’re doing it in sealed glass jars.
I respect it man. I guess I should switch over to doing all of this in a diamond miner like @Thetetraguy taught me. Wasn’t quite aware that the jar could explode at such a low temperature.
I’d edit out some my previous post, except that that would be dishonest. I’ll apologize instead.
Forgive me for getting pissy.
Cool as scars are, I don’t wish you or a one else any more than they truly desire (some folks pay for that shit ).
I’m dead serious when I say I don’t have an “SOP” that’s ready for prime time. I’ve got two burns on my forearm just from reconfiguring our first production decarb unit to make it safer last week.
Your protocol is a decent start. Except you need to understand how the ideal gas law and the mass balance involved affect the required headroom (or just trust the nice dr and stop using glass)
I appreciate that bro. I should’ve read through your post before claiming you don’t share info. I apologize as well. But this whole thing is very confusing imo. I see the majority of hash cart makers using glass jars to decarb in, its very mis leading. Even big brands are using mason jars. But I definitely agree with you it’s not worth taking a risk on loosing a eye or getting glass shards in your arm etc. I’ve had my fair share of injury’s as is. I’m not going to lie I knew I was doing it wrong when I heard my mason jar making popping noises in the oven. Actually was just crossing my fingers that it didn’t explode lmao. But I’ll try and edit my post and make a diamond miner sop.
This was my first batch of live rosin disposables. After about a month every single one of them crystalized. I had to take a heat gun and dump all of them out and add 4-5% canna terps and decarb for longer. It definitely helped but still not the best.
If you don’t actually tighten the lid, you’re fine.
They are actually designed to hold vac not pressure, so presumably folks are getting away with this because the LEAK under pressure.
MOST of the time it’s the lid that goes…least that’s the tell.
I’ve only destroyed them in the fuge so far, and we’ve made it past that stage (documented for the class too).
If you put 1/2 mol (177g) of THCA into a 500ml jar, you need to understand that the CO2 you generate will take up 11liters at rm temp/pressure….and you only have 0.3liters headspace in your jar
).