extract will go up a diptube (…and through a hose, to a needle-valve and angled spray tube if you wish) when your “ready” to pour (into a jar too).
you just have to adjust your thinking about what “ready” actually looks like.
you want pressure, but not much. and the viscosity needs to be right.
Oh I finally get it.thats a great idea. I only have (1) 1/4 npt port on my lid left. Is that big enough?
I’ll have to figure out what parts I need and build that, and the smaller honey pot.
1/4" line will work fine for this.
It would be significantly easier to just buy a triclamp tee and do like this here.
Tee beneath your big valve won’t change your process. The ports on your system probably aren’t threaded all the way through, and they would need to be for you to connect a dip tube to one of them from the underside of the lid.
nah. use a bored through fitting.
https://products.swagelok.com/en/c/straights/p/SS-400-1-4BT?q=1/4
then just run a 1/4" tube through it.
then the non-bored through version to get back to NPT for those not yet ready to commit to Switching from NPT to Compression Fittings
https://products.swagelok.com/en/c/straights/p/SS-400-1-4?q=1/4
looks like he’s got a spare 1/4 NPT female in the lid, so he’s golden.
otherwise going in through a tee like that is certainly do-able, and can be accomplished more cleanly with a bored through fitting (I often make my own). you can also get these Tri Clover Compatible X Compression Adapters from Brewers Hardware which sometimes get the problem solved.
Edit: for low pressure applications (not butane!), you can swap the ferules for an oring, and make an adjustable dip-tube. I’m about to bore through a couple of 1" fittings to make an adjustable hight sprayball. as I’ve yet to meet a hand set 1" fitting, I might even stick with the stock ferrules…
I completely disagree. Especially in that environment, it is imperative that you recover all of your solvent. That will give you a big web of crinkly stands. Freeze and scrape, homie.
@Graywolf called it cotton candy tek. Please don’t blow up. 
If he can’t pour a little more butane rich then he shouldn’t even be extracting in that area…
And yeah, Cotton candy tek sucks…
Invest a slight amount of money rack mount your setup, then get a different bowl with a pour spout in the middle.
@Pupparoo be nice, she’s a friend
This is in a garage, guys. There are electrical cords plugged in on the floor. The best safety is good practice.
When I watched my first run at @Pharmer_Joe 's lab, I watched the scraping and was like “forget that!” Joe said, I" pay a guy to do that. It’s a terrible job."
But he never blew up his neighborhood. It’s a trade off.
Buy a cheap spool and a jacketed base with a spout, all other stuff will cost you about the same in money and more in time and trial and errors.
I wasn’t arguing against safety, I was telling him to be polite to you. That’s all. Addressing the safety of his extraction area will require my morning coffee.
Though his heater/circulator is pretty slick
I disagree. the 1/4 bored through fitting from swagelok is only $11
the non-bored version only $8.
then there is the need for 3’ of stainless tube, and a ball valve.
you can even manage a 1/4 compression ball valve on a budget of $100
one could argue that a 1/4" pour spout is non-optimal. It’s been a very long time since I’ve run hash through a 1/4 line.
I didn’t before, when you first showed the picture, but the. Drawing shows a lot!
Send your collection base to a fabricator and get the bottom cut off and make it a spool. Then buy a splatter platter.
Ive looked into pricing like this before… unless that base has some kinda sentimental meaning then I could understand but it’s basically same price if not cheaper for new base
Definitely easier to just buy a spool and splatter platter! Maybe +/- $50 bucks more? But it’s gonna be expensive to have it modified
This sounds like a @Killa12345 parts purchase
Cheaper just to buy the spool.
