Powdered THC dosing

Nice man thats really interesting just watched your video would be interesting to see more or a video in action super sick gonna look more into maybe setting up sp.ething myself

Here is the longer version. My set up is changed a bit but it is substantially the same.

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Maybe that was a shorter video? * ok now its playing the full video it had stopped on me for some reason *Whats the the boiling flask have around it im confused kind of whats going on in the mantle area

That is a full spherical heating mantle. Under the mantle is the stir bar device.

Ah ok is that what thats called damn that was a really good video thank you …at the end of the video ypu had 2 different fractions what was the darker one? And after you took out the first fraction and moved bigger bulb down was that lighter fraction at the end of the video what came next then the darker one?

I allowed dark tails to come across which in a first run really is SOP for me. The idea on first run is to glean every bit of med in my rig. Then subsequent runs I can throttle down the temperature and coax out the medicine for use. The first challenge is pulling most of the medicine out of the tar which takes higher temps and such. Then as I run the med again I am always lowering the temp used in order to nail down purity.

Oh really so its a high temperature to lower tempuratures? I always thought it would need to be low temps then higher interesting thank you for your time and knowledge

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hey @KJ-DABBIN-DISTY!

Thanks for posting this, I am also having some issues with creating a water soluble THC powder from distillate. I like that you’re using lecithin, something I plan on doing as well. Instead of lecithin i have decided to work with 2-hydroxy propyl-beta cyclodextrin (2-HPCD). This is commonly used in many pharmaceutical applications for drug delivery and water solubility of drugs which act similarly to an oleo resin.

So this is what I’ve done, and keep in mind I am having issued obtaining that nice fine powder end product.

Dissolve >95% THC distillate in 100% (200 proof) ethanol. I’m doing this at a 10:1 ratio, similar to that of winterization. I’m stating with 5g of distillate, so am dissolving in 50mL of ethanol. That suspension is then going onto a hot plate to 130F and stirring at 300rpm’s until homogenized. I’ve then added the 2-HPCD at 1:1 and 2:1 (2-HPCD:Disti). I spin that on with a magnetic stir bar while maintaining heat for about 10 minutes. I then transfer that suspension to the rotovap and pull vac at 80-100mbar, spinning at 50rpm, and the bath at about 45C for 60 minutes.

I’ve only given this a few tries with hope that the increase in 2HPCD would solve the issue of excess disti and lack thereof of powder, however, no luck yet. Have you heard of anyone using this method, or does anyone here know of an SOP or can give insight on my attempted method?

I do have a bunch of lecithin which I want to test out that have varying PC levels from 40% up to 95%. What PC % lecithin are you using, and are you able to produce a fine powder which is stable at room temperature?

Something to keep in mind is that soy lecithin is pretty bad. Most soy based lecithin is produced from GMO soy, and soy in general has been shown to pose negative health effects. It’s my understanding that sunflower lecithin is the exact opposite, and functions exactly the same as soy lecithin.

looking forward to your response and any additional feedback from the group here.

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To clear up any confusion on the ration of 2HPCD:disti, I have done two separate runs. one of the runs at 1:1, and the second run at 2:1. The run at 2:1 resulted in more of a powdery end product than 1:1, however, not a fine powder which is desired. still a bit clumpy

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I’m looking into making a medicated nasal spray or just a fast onset tincture, since I did a bunch of research, talking to a lot of people on the forum, i’ve concluded its just wayyyy too much work and still is a long shot. That is having a water soluble THC powder thats snortable.

Yes you are right about the sunflower lecithin, I just dint feel like ordering it tbh. Not sure what the PC levels are, how do you send PDF’s?? I have a very useful 25 page booklet on how to make the water soluble, not the powder part though.

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Please upload!!

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That would be amazing if you can upload the packet based on the instructions that @cyclopath posted. I think it would really help me understand how to achieve a water soluble powder that could be dissolved in water or a saline solution and used in a nasal spray, as well as other applications. Unless I’m thinking of it incorrectly, you’d have to first create the powder using lecithin or 2-hydroxy propyl cyclo dextrin and distillate, and then suspend that in solution or use in whatever formulation desired to increase solubility/drug delivery.

looking forward to reading the packet! thanks!

white_paper_ascb_v9 (3).pdf (2.1 MB)
Required_HLB_for_Oils_and_Lipids.pdf (13.1 KB)
Emulsifiers_HLB_Values.pdf (14.8 KB)

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There ya go, again I wasn’t able to confidently conclude that the end product of their process, after pulling all the moisture out is gonna be your desired powder, or if the liquid concentrated in a smaller amount of water would work as a nasal spray…?

Anyone have any ideas on a process/recipe for a THC water soluble nasal spray??

@Soxhlet @cyclopath @Beaker

They are not making a powder out of THC, they are making teeny tiny globs of it. It remains a liquid at room temp and not a solid. You cannot make THC a solid unless you lower it below the melting point of THC. At room temperatures it is a liquid.

Why are you set on a nasal spray? sublingual absorbtion seems like the best choice. You claim to have damaged airways, why would you want to further damage your airways by spraying chemicals up your sinuses? Not to mention having the inside of your nose coated with sticky hash would be the most unpleasent thing I can think of. What is your nose going to do that sublingual absorbtion won’t? Im curious?:thinking:

thanks for the docs. @KJ-DABBIN-DISTY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Size-Glass-Essential-Oil-Steam-Distilling-Apparatus-Hydrosol-Distillation/152823402918?epid=2263715676&hash=item2394fc11a6:g:Be0AAOSwVlda2IJ3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072K24X5P/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A12NUUP87ZRRAR&psc=1

What about something like this just to try and learn the process?

I use Glascol mantles and LOVE them for how veratile they are. By this I mean that literally you could put a Glascol on a flask upside down if you want to and because it is a free standing cloth unit it is easy to explore things like horizontal distillation and such. A fixed mantle in a chassis with all the PID or analog controls is pretty much limited to verticle distillations.

The heating mantle needs some sort of control to keep it from burning up. I used a kit from Amazon that cost about $75 bucks and it gave me a PID control, a solid state relay (SSR) and a thermocouple. You must never plug a GlasCol mantle into an outlet by itself. It will self destruct because without a control to turn on then off the control to get the desired heat then the mantle will simply be full on. A Glascol or any heating mantle MUST have a suitable control or things smoke lol.

The kit for essential oil would not be my choice. I assume of course that you are asking my input because you wish to refine extract which means you need gear that is set up for a vacuum input. I believe most pieces of lab gear if in a pinch could be rigged to produce disty and would have loved in life to pioneer a horizontal disty unit but of commercial size. My own horizontal rig does use bulbs like might be used for essential oil steam distillation but they are small kugelrohr bulbs.

You need one boiling flask that can fit your mantle. Smaller flask sizes can be used in your mantle than it is designed for but never larger sizes. Then you need an uptake tube and the majority far and away from posts I have seen do this with one unit which is the short path head of choice. It will have a vacuum connection. Then you need a collection flask to catch your fractions.

I believe it best to skip a cow receiver and at first just try to run it this way which means a swap out of bulbs and that is no sweat really. Those cow receivers introduce vacuum problems owing to the fact that even in a receiver any liquid present can and does continue to evaporate under deep vacuum albeit slowly. Keeping any volitile fraction inside the unit will degrade your vacuum.

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Thats what i was thinking so after the condensor theres no fit for a vac tube just the two for the water so thats plays a big role? I just have a regular old 4 cfm vac pump. Im very interested in the set up you had just kind of a bit put off by the big vac set up and assumong some type of vac pressure controller?