I’ve thought about it, and that junction would be your only draw back.
Yea, I guess you’d still have that choke point of the threaded glass and it wouldn’t be quite as open as something that was built for it.
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The rest would be open instead of tiny hoses. I’m pretty certain that it would help give you less problems
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How do we get pricing? Contact you?
In cls we had the same problem 1/4 " flare changed to a 3/8 " flare conection made a big recovery diffrence
And even though the hole on a 3/8 sreddervalve was sligtly bigger the times went down big
The main squizer in the gl fitting is that little white conection tube
The glass hole is quiet larger so i do think iT Will help
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It’ll definitely be an upgrade from the other option, for sure. And I didn’t even take into consideration the white plug in the gl connector, that makes it even slower, for sure. If I can’t get the pieces I want to go full bore with my mini system, I may have to do something like this after a single flask distributor
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I took a ns 24 long Neck round botom flask and cut iT of with a Diamond tile Blade used that as the hose conection to the cow
And gleud the hose on the coldtrap with silicone without the fittings so direct to the treaded glass nippels
Worked beter not much but beter
Yust make sure the hose connected to the cold trap moves as little as possible
Don t recomend iT but i did and worked better
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So the craigslist guy came back and will take $700 for that lab society setup, I think I’m gonna get it tomorrow. I’ll post a pic of everything when I get it!
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Figure I should ask here since it vacuum gauge placement was briefly discussed.
In compiling my own list and looking around the forum, it seems there is conflicting information as to proper vacuum gauge placement. I’m planning on going with a silvered LS head and bullseye gauge and placing the gauge probe directly after the condenser. But I have seen a few members mention the dangers of placing an electronic gauge where is can be contaminated. The last thing I want to do is kill a $500 gauge, but I also want a precise reading of what the hell is going on in the system and it sounds like a gauge placed after the cold trap before the pump isn’t all that accurate. Would I be safe to go through with my original plan of gauge placement with this particular gauge? Or would capping the head port and just taking the reading from after the cold trap be a better bet?
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From everything that I’ve gathered. It’s all up to the operator and what they are comfortable with. Some like it before the cold trap, or right after the condenser, then some want it after the cold trap. Everyone gets used to how their system operates. If you know what micron to look for depending where it is and what fraction you’re in, regardless of where your guage is, it’ll run correctly, right?
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With hot condensor tech after the cold trap i wise
Althoug for accurate Reading iT s before
I use a Yellowjacket hvac sensor that costs 38$ and clean every time after use
And iT doesn t hurt me to toss iT out once in a while and replace with a new one
The reason is that i find the pirrani gauges to heavy for My glasswear
And these gauges are light and till 10 microns fairly accurate
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Alright, here is what I got for $700 (everything new in original boxes). All glass is Lab Society or Chemglass:
1L RBF
Lab Society distillation head v1
3 x 250 mL receiving flask
Chemglass cow
1L sep funnel
1L side arm flask
Büchner funnel
Plastic kek clips
Metal kek clips
101 fast filter paper
5 x Flask cork stands
Thomas Scientific Thermometer
750 mL Everclear (lol)
Thermometer inlet adapter
Plug
Dow Vacuum Grease
All in all this is about $1200 worth of stuff so I feel like I got a pretty good deal!
So, now to finish the system. For the pump, I think I am going to order one of these (thanks @Dred_pirate for the suggestion). I need some stands, and a cold trap.
Which connections can be left as GL and which should be done with bellows?
Thanks for the help everyone, I am super stoked to get started!
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looks like a steal bro…shit looks in fantasic shape. wish shit like that was on my craigslist. great buy
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I say if you can. From your cow use the gl adapters that go to the kf16 and use a small kf16 bellow there. And after the cold trap use the kf25 adapter going to the pump. You won’t be choking your vacuum power as much as possible. That will help a great deal.
I would find the apezion, whatever it’s spelled, grease. I don’t know if that stuff is distill-able.
Lab stands shouldn’t be expensive or hard to come across.
@Killa12345 are you able to get him any of that stuff like the bellows?
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i have 3 and 4 way kf25 adapters and 1000mm kf25 bellow hoses which should be back in stock early next week. I also have some of the kf25 to 1/8" npt if you using a vacuum gauge like a bulleye. I think thats all i have. I had a bunch of extra clamps and gaskets too…but they are misplaced right now.
wish i had more…but im a one man show just trying to be able to feed my family. I will have some cool shit this year and a bit more selection.
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I might be hitting you up for some of those items here soon hopefully
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Sounds exactly like me, everything pieced together from ebay, all Chinese glass. Do this as a hobby. I want to upgrade to full bore. But might be overkill for my system. Any thoughts on it ?
Currently 500ml Chinese mantle(faithful), quark 2l head, dual cow, and gl14 cold trap, purge vacuum is cps vps 6cfm and primary vacuum is alcatel2021i 14.5 cfm
Here is what I am looking at for upgrades. this is a 5l head would this be to big? Thanks
Where’d you find that stopper from? And I don’t think that it would be overkill. Better vacuum is best, from what I gather
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I found it Google search kf25 to 24/40, I an wondering about the 5l head on a 500ml system.
hahaha…we are cheapie brothers @Poizzin cause ive looked at some of those parts too. My setup is 500ml and i run an alcatel too…LMAO
First, ive seen that cold trap for months even before i bought my setup. How does that work without an input and out. I see where there is a spot for the RBF and the output for the pump…But what about the input?
I second Dred Pirate as to where you got the stainless kf25 to 24/40? I imagine @soxhlet can make that outta ptfe which might be safer on the glass.
id like to run a much better head on my unit too. Im thinking of calling rocco and asking him for a deceit 2l head instead of going 5l
Awesome post and im literally in this exact same boat so id love to see what you come up with!!
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