Slight PH imbalance also D8 oxidizes very rapidly I have noticed. Much faster than D9
Theres techniques to prevent quick oxidization lets ask the wizards
@Roguelab
@Photon_noir
@Kingofthekush420
How do we make d8 that has a longer shelf life??? (Less prone to oxidization)
Here’s a little spoon of information.
If there’s no oxygen, things don’t oxidize.
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Yes but thats basic like using a high quality vacuum system to seal entire jars…issue is the jars or products always get opened
Look into inert gas, there’s plenty of threads on how to prevent oxidation in the jars.
Search bar will get you far.
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Pretty sure its a pH or media tech that makes a high purity d8 with less prone to oxidization
Just store your shit properly, it’s ridiculously easy.
How are you even planning on “adding an acid” or media to make it more stable without complicating your post-processing considerably more than backfilling a jar for 5 seconds.
Got some kind of thread to link to what you’re on about?
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Never looked into ph to lessen oxidation don t think it s a good idea to ad something to any end product
Acitic or basic
But yes there seems to be compounds in distillates that keep them from oxidizing for not all distillates oxidize
Naturally occurring compounds that is
As far as I know none has been identified
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I think some of the fats are anti-oxidants? Those prevent oxidation.
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No fats in my distillate !!!
Blasphemy how dare you
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Well, you really cannot make pure Δ8-THC that somehow has a longer shelf life. D8 is D8, ya know? The search for antioxidant additives is what led some to fatally poisoning people with vitamin E acetate in vape products, so definitely don’t mess around with anything that mentions toxic vapors can be emitted on heating! Also avoid anything with no toxicity or fire-fighting information known! And definitely do NOT put out ANY product without testing it, yourself!
That said, it is possible to remove some of the common impurities that oxidize colorfully and promote oxidation in cannabinoid resin and distillates. This is done by washing a non-polar (e.g. alkane, such as heptane, hexane or pentane) solution of resin or distillate with mildly acidic and alkaline waters. The volume of water to non-polar solution for each wash can be 1/3rd the n.p. volume to equal to the n.p. volume. Any emulsion should be left under the n.p. layer until the last wash of pure water after the acidic or alkaline water, where it can be drained off with that last water aliquot.
The first washes should be acidic water at pH between about 3 to 4, using citric, oxalic or phosphoric acid at room temperature. The best way to make this is to saturate a small amount of water with acid, and use drops of that water into a stirred larger volume of pure water, testing the pH after each drop or continuously with a meter. This is probably best to use on crude resin, but can also be helpful (especially to remove odor) from distillate. You may not see any color washing out, but this removes proteins, amines, and “saltable” alkaline compounds that can promote oxidation, along with some free phenols that may oxidize colorfully. Do at least 3 (up to 6) washes with the acidic water, then at least 2 washes with NaCl brine water (about 250g NaCl per Liter of water at room temperature). No matter if this is done on resin or distillate before distillation or re-distillation, or on the final distillate, at least 1 wash with pure water should be performed last, and the pH of that water should be checked to see if it remains the same before and after the wash. If an alkaline wash is planned to come after this, then the pH of the water after acid washing is less important, but if this is the final treatment before heating or using the product, wash with pure water until the pH stays the same before and after washing.
The next washes should be alkaline water, at pH 8 to 9, saturated with baking soda at room temperature (about 60 grams sodium bicarbonate per Liter of pure water). Filter out leftover solid baking soda, or allow to settle and just decant clear liquid carefully. This should NOT be used on crude resin with acidic cannabinoids. It is best applied to distillate in non-polar solution. These washes will remove some color; often pink to amber. The alkane solution of cannabinoids can be washed with this alkaline water until no more color comes out. When the alkaline water runs colorless, wash twice with brine water and at least once with pure water… again, test the pH of that pure water before and after the wash, and continue washes until the pH remains the same before and after the wash.
And, yes, I know I have advocated against doing these pH adjusted washes in the past, mainly because folks were getting bad results due to improper application of them. However, they do have their benefits when done right, and folks still want to do them. So this is the right way to pH wash your cannabinoids. Good luck! 
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See…
thanks for being snide
But, despite @Photon_noir suggestions
If you don’t store it properly, you will ABSOLUTELY still get oxidation in your distillate, ESPECIALLY if it’s near clear. Those steps may lessen it by a bit, but certainly not make a hugely noticeable impact. This might get you an extra 20-30% less intense appearance of oxidation, but…
If you don’t want a slowly descending ring of color on the top of your distillate jar. Then prevent oxidation entirely and store it right.
I already do all of the steps listed there 
and I make sure I store things properly, because my stuff still oxidizes. The higher purity you attain in your distillate, the higher likelihood it will have of reacting with oxygen. Putting 3 cents worth of nitrogen on the top of your jar is 1000x quicker and easier than multiple pH washes after buying yourself a reactor.
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This is absolutely true. In fact, those colored compounds are actually protective antioxidants that keep your cannabinoids from oxidizing when the bulk is exposed to oxygen! Removing them is actually counterproductive to purity, but since so many customers base their purchasing decisions on color (or as so many processors believe), you can remove them and just get invisible CBN formation. If they cannot see the decomposition, then they will believe it has longer shelf life (even if it is actually shorter) or that the product is more pure (even when it isn’t anymore).
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Dis right here
Oh I can convert 100% of the CBD, problem is it ends up 3 other cannabinoids
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To pursue this remark, a lot of pigments have antioxidant properties because they do strongly absorb UVs (along with visible light). They act as sun screens.
Thus they do protect from oxidation, in presence of oxygen, by detering UV catalysis. Total anoxic storrage is not an easy endeavour at all, contrary to what is claimed above. Flushing the heaspace of containers is necessary, but not sufficient. It requires also thorough degassing of the material, minimisation of the headspace (the main O2 reserve), at at least two layers of barrier with ambiant atmosphere (mason jars in vac seal bags is a good option). Traces of oxygen will remain anyway. Total aznoxic work require several steps in anaerobic chamber, using specific scrubbers to eventually suppress residual oxygen at the end. Very few people do that in the world…
Regarding CBD, I observed that the pink/red dimer that forms under uv exposure of MCT tinctures, actually diseapear after extended storrage (weeks) in the dark. It reappears rapidly as the solution is exposed again. This peocess seems thus reversible.
If this woukd be the case for the other coloured aging products, this would mean that storage in dark is far sufficient, and much more convenient that anoxic storage.
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Do you get d9, d8 and the intermediate (I suspect to be in the pathway od d9 to d8) as main components ?
Hey sir how goes it!!? I finally made my way over here from ig lol! I could definitely stand to chat with you for a minute when you’re got the time!! I was just brought back onto this hemp processing facility and, I guesssss, from what they are telling me, we are now supposedly converting cbd diatillate to delta8!!??? I’ve tried to do a little reading up on the matter and processes used to accomplish this but the only thing I can say is this “d8” we are currently producing at our facility site doesn’t look like any water clear d8 I’ve seen online!! SOS!! I’m a hit u up on the gram also and forward you my info so hopefully we can speak real-time!! Thanks for your time sir!!
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Hallo meneer hoe gaat het ?
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