I’ve seen what you are talking about, too.
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If i stir in the pot with the spatula once its settled it clears up a bit more…its all in da flick of da wrist
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What about D.E. powder or a fine aluminum oxide powder?
Alumina grabs pigments well, doesn’t do much to fats. I really can’t see the celite doing anything unless actively dewaxing
@Waxplug1 so from what you observed in your Buchner funnel that a possible way to dewax using clays is by agitating the solution and letting it settle? I wish I had some filter stacks and an in-line dewaxer so I can start experimenting and contributing more data than theories
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There still must be a way to cause the fats to percipitate before they can be adsorbed by things I believe?
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Injection of liquid n2 or co2? @Krative
Or really just a dewaxing column with a lot of surface area exposed to extreme cold.
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What about adding more surface area for fats to coagulate onto with steel wool or cotton in the dewax chamber? People mentioned it briefly in the crc thread.
Also, isn’t there a difference between alumina and aluminum oxide?
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I think this would work great but maybe a coil chiller inline.
Alumina is just axid activated aluminum oxide, i think the aluminum oxide powder has less surface area and is an inferior adsorbent.
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Well this would speed things up since @Waxplug1 said b80 was seeking out stuff as it dissolved and if all we have to do is wait for the powder to settle it’ll probably be faster than waiting 1-2 hours dewaxing with extremely cold temps
Yea but dewax does help reduce color a lot…i did one hot one cold…hot one came out darker…im assuming its from expansion that the clay is not as effective
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Did you maintain adequate pressure as to ensure the hot solvent was not boiling inside the column?
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If i remember correctly, some one was using borowool filter in there dewax column to add to the surface areA to grab waxes. Ill try to find a link to this stuff again. I liked glass better than cotton or steel wool. Just think it would be cleaner. Only problem with grabbing to much fats is that thca/thc bond to fats.
https://www.fishersci.com/shop/products/pyrex-glass-wool/11388
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So what about just stacking filter stack plates and rings inside a jacketed spool with no filter paper? I just bought some of the filter plates and rings from better value vacs. I’m thinking about stacking them in a jacketed column with no filter paper, after the filter stack to crest a super cooled inline baffled Dewax column.
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I like the idea but why no filter paper?
Even if you used coffee filters it would help pre filter some waxes. Some is better than none and the filter paper shouldnt hinder the wax precipitating.
The point of the baffles is to cause adibiatic super cooling on the baffles surface, the hope would be the change in pressure/temperature will help precipitate the waxes on the way through, just one paper on the bottom stack. I think filter papers will prevent the adubiatic process because they slow the movement through the baffles, but I’m by no means positive it will work that way. I’ll report back when my order comes in.
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Two or more of these. First one at - 40 for two hours, next one -60 for two hours, then -80< for a couple of hours or more, if you’re going colder, and flush. Yes it’s hard. But, you’re also asking the best way. Last dewax you can filter through the media and take out the last of the impurities.
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I’m planning on dewaxing after the crc so I can still sell the fatty portion.
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I’m excited to see how your makeshift baffle goes!!! I envision a warm extraction leading to the crc column leading to a needle valve leading to a lower pressure system starting with like 3-5 filterless 2-4" filter plates leading to a big dewax vessel. This leading down to a ball valve at the bottom with steel wool and a 3 micron filter on the other side leading to the collection vessel.
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If only there was a safe way to have the dry ice directly contact the solution in a closed loop.