I make terrible distillate....why?

I’ve been doing a second pass here for a while, I’m at 225 on the mantle, 182 at the head, and down around 90 microns with 247g of first pass distillate.

to be honest though I don’t see much difference between the first bit I collected (the garbage) except that it was runny, and the main fraction I’m collecting now. It still looks orange but looks nice. I’ll be super happy if I’ve at least knocked out a significant portion of the taste/smell…that rubbery exhaust smelling shit.

What I’m still very confused about is the one distillation I did where I collected some of the main fraction, took it home and it oxidized. Then when I resumed the next day the distillate I got was nice and light and didn’t oxidize at all… it remained stable. both batches were put in syringes. but only the second half oxidized… I’m confused as shit on that.

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Was it kept under vacuum?

My main jar I had for 5 months still looks light yellow vs red ring of death from oxidation. It was kept under vac the whole time

Yep one of the Many misteries
Hapened to me to on Many occasions and we still don t know When and why

no none of it was under vacuum…which is why I’m also so much more confused about why the same batch of oil had some of it oxidize and the rest remain stable.

I really hate this red shit, it’s the bane of my entire life, and I just don’t think I have all the stuff necessary to produce something like water clear, or even just plain yellow distillate.
It’s really affecting my mental state at this point in my life.

Water clear can only be achieved with absorbants in the boiling flask

just plain yellow then??

Only If the biomass from Wich crude is made is fresh Ni older than six weeks If not stored in a freezer in a vacuum bag

The orange heu is a consequence of the Carbon scrub If material is old thats what happens i have not worked with the bentonite scrubs theyhave nowadays
Only natural bentonite but that takes the orange away
Nice vac depth by the way really good

Always store distillate under vacuum, or you get the "red ring of death " oxidation.

that’s what I’m saying though man, I had stuff that wasn’t stored under vac and it was stable. did not oxidize, did not darken in anyway. and it was from the exact same distillation as the stuff that did oxidize.

I don’t know what I did that got me that result…like captain americas shield lol

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I take notes on much that i do
Just never on this since i started storing under vacuum
Pity for Maybe i Could have found the correlation😢

One does not need to store something under vacuum to keep it from oxidizing. Obviously there is a way cuz most stuff at the store is not oxidizing. Google scolars is awsome.

Spit iT out
Playing hide and seek😀
What You got up your sleave ?

So how was your day ?
GEtting better at iT ?

Storing under vacuum a kitchen vacuum storage case already does the trick

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well I’m going to go through the process nice and slow like the last time, do what I did before and see what happens.

… once I’m finished this extended carbon scrub process.

I’m in the process of rotovaping the filtered oil, and I took my time filtering it. I did a stage 1/2 filtering on hochstrom, then back into the freezer for 24 hours and onto the stage 2/3 filtering. After which it was frozen for 24 more hours and I did a double stage 3 filter and the second filter under the first was pretty much clean when I was finished.

Next will be carbon scrubbing the filtered oil on my heating mantle at 90C for 30 mins. then more filtering lol.

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I have the elctronic valve hooked into my vacuum pump display which also features a valve on/off switch. If you hit the valve button for less than two seconds it just bumps it open. I also have that valve throttled by installing a particule filter on the input air. This lets me open that valve and leave it open but the Edwards 28 I use keeps enough vacuum going then to keep the vacuum from breaking system vacuum completely. That electronic valve was nearly $300 as I recal but has become invaluable for this.

I cannot even guess how many of my initial experiements ended up bumping past the condenser. A lot. My personal strategy is to heat at about 100°C on the heating mantle and stirring the mix at ambient pressure. I do this until ALL evidence of boiling over ceases. Then I ramp up temperature to my target. I am confused why you would see this on second pass distillate. On the face of it then it seems hard to visualize how enough THCA or CBNA is left to decarboxylate? The evidence shown seems to suggest pushing the heat ramp up faster than removal of lower boiling compounds makes possible.

It sucks to start over but at least you did not destroy any compound.

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Today I’m going back and distilling some old already distilled BHO…the stuff that’s left over after the distillation is finished. In the past I may not have fully finished some runs, so I’m finding that I can still pull distillate out of this stuff since there’s a few KG’s of it… not much left to get out of it, but still some. Double distilling this stuff works out well for edibles.

I’m finishing the rotovaping of the clean filtered stuff today so I can carbon scrub it as well. This is the stuff I’m going to take a good, slow time distilling.

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Awesome community man. I know exactly how it feels to put your everything into something you love and have it all crumble.

Won’t go into specifics; but man y’all did something here that is true love.

Congrats on getting back on and doing what you love. Thanx for sharing and to all who shared.

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Ok so i am working on the poor mans sop for gold made out of old material
I used 2 year old biomass
Extracted with ethanol at -80 C
The oil after evaporating of the etho with heat was simple Said BLACK :weary:
Ok time to clean up
Disolved in hexane i did Some Degumming with pouring in two table spoons of citric acid mixed and letting Waxes fall out (percipitatte)
I then added a 4:1 Brine / citric acid ph 2
Wash to the sep funnel and discarted the water layer
Then i added a 4:1 Brine wash / ph 10 bicarbonate wash (arm and hammer )
And at last a neutral Brine wash discarted that and finaly a water wash 4:1
4 being the Brine water and 1 the oil
Then added 4:1 pure methanol mixed and then added 3-4% water for methanol to seperate from the hexane
Saved the methanol and hexane both
Places the methanol back in sep funnel and added a new 4:1 hexane
To the funnel and pourd 2 parts of the 4 by volume water in the cannabinoids left the methanol and went into the hexane
Let the methanol out and kept the hexane
Placed 3% by weight of the starting weight of crude
Af activated Carbon in the hexane and distilled the hexane of at the end i added same volume of fresh hexane to the crude to filter treu a 1 micron filter
Evaped the hexane of and decarbed in boiling flask
Did My first pass and mains Where looking good only orange :weary:

And here is the part i want You to try
Added 2 % by weight of
Neutral bentonite from the art shop or beauty salon for ladys
Yust the cheap bentonite to the boiling flask 8 $ a kg
And did My second pass with the following as a result


I think a Carbon scrub and bentonite in the flask should get You this result
Yust wrote up all steps so You know
Good luck

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