I have a question i have already spent some time in the search bar so please bare with me for asking as i didnt quite find the exact answer im looking for.
Sourced a couple liters recently(I dont distill so i dont have any spd or any type of equipment in that general field)
They are slightly dark (Not quite amber just a darkish gold)assuming probably just a bit old as the COA i was sent was from august, I just re tested myself they are clean in every area so im good on that. 91% total 83 d9
To the question once they are heated up they have a bit of a burnt smell, i dont think i would say its nessecarily like burnt rubber as ive seen on threads here. More so just a bit burnt probably burnt terps left over as it doesnt smell really when not hot, and the flavor is defenitly prevelant in a cart ive tried with no terps.
Is there any way i can deodorize with minimal equiptment? I saw someone saying vac oven(i dont have one but can get asap) Let me know a guidline SOP to this process if anyone knows/can help. Thanks.
with not having a roto vap or a short path… one could probably get some impurities out if you did a ethanol LLE wash and swing your pH with different washes and finish with just distilled water. maybe you could make a home made separatory funnel. do you know if it was a converted d9 or was it regular disty? does your COA show an irregular amount of CBD or?
LLE with ethanol and water will absolutely not work at all. How would you expect layers of ethanol to form with another layer of water? They are miscible.
@replxce what are you using the disty for? Carts, Eds or ?
If it’s not too strong of a smell you can mask it in edibles. Ime, adding terps just makes it worse.
If you were going the cart route I’d have the lab replace the kgs with a pleasant smelling and tasting disty.
which at a min means heating up to 150C and pulling down below 50um imo.
which you don’t have the capability to do right now.
a vac oven is not the right tool for the job, but could probably be used to achieve those parameters.
a vacuum CHAMBER (BVV style) is cheaper than a oven by a long shot, and using a double boiler you could manage a stable 100C without any need for fancy temp control.
sucking on that with a $99 harbor freight pump for an hr or twelve might get you somewhere.
This may help with some basic steps to get you going down a rabbit hole of purification steps.
•prep amount of oil desired to wash & heat till has loose viscosity, so you can homogenize with solvent for lle.
•dilute oil : solvent (heptane) at 1:2 or 1:3 ratio oil : solvent
Ratios for lle wash will be 1:1 or 1:2.
Solvent/oil : water wash/base
(Use DISTILLED WATER) washes consist of 15 min agitation, then 45 minutes of still separation to discard of aqueous layer.
[ ] Use sodium bicarbonate, wash 1-2 times, allow the emulsion to fully seperate then discard of the aqueous layer. (use ph of 7-8.9).
[ ] Agitate for 15 min then allow 45 min to separate. Discard aqueous layer each time after lle wash then proceed with next wash step.
[ ] Water wash with 1-2 washes of brine to remove remaining emulsion.(5%salt water)
[ ] Agitate for 15 min then allow 45 min to separate. Discard aqueous layer each time after lle wash then proceed with next wash step.
[ ] Run regular DISTILLED WATER WASH 2-3 times till all acidic compounds are eluted & removed in the water layer. (Ph water at 5.5-6ph upon discard of aqueous layer to ensure your organic layer ph has been balanced out).
[ ] Agitate for 15 min then allow 45 min to separate. Discard aqueous layer each time after lle wash then proceed with next wash step.
[ ] If your organic layer has a visible clarity through it (no impurities floating or visible) you have properly seperated & may begin to discard of water later & collecting organic layer.
[ ] Start discarding of the last aqueous layer slowly & with a inlet valve open as to not disturb your clean organic layer upon discarding the final wash aqueous layer.
[ ] Allow a little oil to flow through so the water on the bottom goes with it to ensure a MAJORITY of your moisture content is gone.
[ ] Once organic layer is settled, collect & remove remove organic layer in a beaker/flask you can apply the next step with.
[ ] Then use sodium sulfate at 5-10g 1-2 times & filter over 25um filter to remove solids from solution.
[ ] Once filtrate is collected, ensure no particulates or moisture is present (can observe water on bottom of collection flask if present) & then roto solvent off to recover oil from solvent then will still need to be distilled via spd or wiper.
I was just adding some simple steps here do the op to look into if they wanted too. Thank you for catching the no specification of solvent as well more so focused on other steps & other corrections. , was trying to type all this out while building a puzzle with my daughter so completely spaced that & had it in mind when I started typing. Again thank you for catching that slip.
I figured they didn’t have the options for it as I did read , but didn’t want to op the option of a vac oven as said by @cyclopath
But it did make me chuckle as it still was posted about & im sure we’ve all done it a time or two with a oven when in a pinch.
i knew he couldnt use heptane because he didnt have a way of recovery nor distillation. was thinking if he swung the ph of the aqueous layer he could pull shit from the organic mix and drain then recover the distillate with a hot plate or water bath and a jar outside or something.
i was under the impression (i’ve never used ethanol for LLE ) that you could salt it out enough to make them immiscible. someone told me potassium carbonate or other forms of salt could achieve this.
