The internal and external condenser. Basically! Looking for the fluids now online form chemworld and want to get the one we need.
I have no idea what your system looks like, you keep saying it’s heavily modified. I don’t want to make assumptions. So when I’m asked how hot/cold I think, does he mean cold trap? Perhaps external/internal condenser surface? Feed tank heat? There are a lot of variables out there. I don’t want to give you wrong information. Please make your questions direct and clear.
For example: I was wondering where a good starting point was for my internal condenser surface. Answer: I would start around 50 c.
Or: How hot should my heated circulator be set in order to heat the jacket of the wiper assembly, my pump will achieve xxx torr.
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Soooooooo your rite there are to many variables and I’m a lost gazelle in the lions den!
I’m reaching .1 torr when tested in Asia. I’m almost done plumbing the system.
Test it when your done plumbing. Get that number plugged into a boiling point nomograph and start there.BPnomogr.pdf (52.7 KB)
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Yes, I am saying that 110C will be insufficient for at least one of your WFE heating units.
My understanding is that folks are using temps as high as 170C on their WFE. I don’t have one yet, but I’m working on it.
I know from direct experience that Beaker uses 135C at 0.75 microns in his sublimator, and don’t imagine the WFE is going to work much below 120C based on that. following the math Soxhlet suggested should give you a more solid answer one way or the other.
If you use the above parameters as a starting point, you need a heating fluid that can handle 200C, and a chilling fluid that can handle -10C.
You’ll also need a cold trap, and I don’t know if you’re cooling that with a -80 chiller, or using dry ice/ alcohol. Either way, you’re unlikely to be circulating that particular bath, so fluid isn’t a real issue (if you’re using a chiller, SOP is Isopropanol).
You got a lot of weaponry for a gazelle…
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One is half the price then the other. Can I get away with useing the cheaper one or do I gotta use the more expensive…
I guess technically the HT would get you to 160C and possibly the 177C it’s “rated” for. Which will most likely get the job done on your rig. If you’ve got enough vac, you might even find you’re running closer to 120C, in which case either would work. I’d talk to the folks at Dynalene to get a feel for how running so close to the rated limit will affect fluid life.
the 150C on the SF seems to be pushing it just a hair.
@Soxhlet might have experience in layering N2 over an open bath to squeeze more temp out of your fluid. Or that might be a terrible idea. Not qualified 
or see how much MultiTherm OG is MultiTherm OG-1 Oxidation Resistant Heat Transfer Fluid for Open-Loop System
it’s rated to 290C in an open config…which seems a little high, given a flash point of 235C and a fire point of 271C, but hey, its got OG in the name, so it must be the right stuff…
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Has anyone tried a motor oil designed for diesels?
as in https://www.amazon.com/Delo-5G-15W40-Each-400-SDE-15W40/dp/B073JSB59R
again, it may not be a brilliant idea. just spit-balling.
About the safegaurd I added. Going back to the chart I posted earlier. If a 30% ethylene glycol / purified water mixture was suggested for the temperature I am working with, I would do a 40% mix to give myself a little headroom to play with my temps.
Nice for the chillers in the rotos that’s perfect.
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Is that an open bath?
China brand it’s 15l open bath for the wf
Any idea if using a pure methanol solution in a chiller is ok? For example polysci durachill -10. I have plenty of methanol and would like to boost the chiller with dry ice or ln2 to run colder but have never used anything but pg/water.
Bump 
Anyone run cheap 100cst silicone oil? Well not cheap but cheaper than dynalene
Soxhlet-
Your mention on heat-exchangers speaks to me!
Looking for a energy efficient & speedy way to bring our cryo-ethanol up to near room temperature, prior to rotovape, what vendors may you recommend?
Grateful for all the insights you offer the community. Much thanks!
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Heres a wild ass idea, run your cryo etoh through the condenser of your rotovap, then through a preheat tube in the rotobath before injectin it into the rotovap.
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Bloody brilliant, mate!