Butane Contaminant Demystified

Warmer extractions, maybe with solvent at -40c or -30c which include some degree of wax in the concentrate enables some of us to never see the medusa or fast crash.

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Really, double DUH
one for the “Willbilly” and one for the “duke”.

Did someone say “butane solution” of carboxylic acids

WTFamines and water
@rocksteady
you are on edge of
Confusing the “diamond business.”

Choose: terps, alkanes, ethers, alcohols or water.
Choose one and provide us with kinetic picture of
Crystallization dynamics


Please inform.
You do understand I am being sarcastic


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Maybe everyone is worried that if they name it, it appears, like Candyman or Beetlejuice :scream:

Candymangif

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I prefer base baths to clean all my equipment of any organics. Im sure you could do an acidic wash to take care of any metals and such. Than again i wouldnt even link the SOP i copied from DR. Choi because to many people would end up in the ER from not using PPE/ DOing so in a enclosed area
 few other things.

Quick google search for acid washes of metals/cleaning hydrocarbons took me to this

Impurities in benzene, toluene, xylene, [naphthas](https://www.sciencedirect.com/Find it yourself before i aid in harming others unintentionally), and industrial aromatic hydrocarbons are determined by a simple colorimetric analysis of an acid wash. A solvent is washed with BLANK 


Besides a normal flush of the system of water there are 7-8 other steps required/related to pipe cleaning. You can assume what industry i took this from based on the variety of solvents.

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This was soaked for 20 min after i distilled 10 liters of brown material extracted at 90 degrees F non winterized first pass. There are some awesome cleaning procedures but you cant simply just dispose of these like alcohol and such

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We need a cleaning thread

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Polycrystal, polycrystal, polycrystal

ive read like maybe 5% of the medusa thread posts so im unsure of where you guys are at on it. I can however say that ive been precipitating various acidic cannabinoids from etoh crude with antisolvents since like 2018 with great effect.

also just to add more food for thought, this contaminate that is acting as an antisolvent is very “aggressive” id venture to say that THCA is insoluble/barely soluble in it. butttt if what safeleaf says is true and is repeatable across all cases; then i would venture to say that the waxes and lipids are soluble in it.

sooo we have a mysterious contaminate that has the following potential characteristics;
THCA is probably insoluble/low solubility
Waxes are potentially soluble in it.
it is soluble/miscible in butane.
it is water soluble/miscible.

im sure im missing many more characteristics as like i said; ive read maybe 5% of the threads and will catch as my limited free time allows.

no skin in this gas game besides the general market health. wish yall the best of luck with figuring it out.

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Or you could just boil ethanol through your system with the cold trap disconnected

Only thing I ever clean is the boiling flask itself the Ethanol gets everything else spotless

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Right
Previous guy before be was using oven cleaner to clean his distillation equipment. What do you know cleaning up the material a bit before it hits the flask and cleaning it immediately instead of letting it sit overnight and all the sudden I didn’t need anything crazy to get shit spotless again.

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Oven cleaner? Holy crap lol :laughing: I bet that disty had some funk to it

I couldn’t even imagine

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Heptane is good for cleaning the spd as well. As long as your crude is hydrocarbon

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These? One for EtOH and one for Iso? As KOH or NaOH + EtOH or Iso + dH2O?

EtOH base bath (bath mixing procedure only; NOT a complete SOP):

Iso base bath (complete SOP):

Those base bath mixing procedures seem less than optimized considering the highly exothermic dissolution reaction of concentrated KOH solutions and the potential to boil EtOH or Iso if rushed. I have seen plastic mixing vessels bulge and weaken when someone mixes a concentrated KOH solution in them without an ice bath. So, it would probably make sense to change the base bath mixing procedure from:

EtOH base bath [~0.96 M KOH soln. [6.06% w/w KOH] pH ~13.98 @ 90% KOH]: Plastic primary vessel > KOH > EtOH > dH2O > place primary vessel in secondary vessel > wait for full dissolution > wait for solution to reach RT > lid on primary vessel > label and store, and;

Iso base bath [~0.9 M KOH soln. [~5.7% w/w KOH] pH ~13.95 @ 90% KOH]: In fume hood > place primary vessel in secondary vessel > Chilled dH2O > KOH > wait for full dissolution > wait for solution to reach RT > Iso > label and store.

To:

EtOH or Iso base bath: HDPE primary vessel in an ice water bath at a height just below the height of dH2O > pre-chilled (33-34’F) dH2O > slowly add NaOH (to limit temperature spike) while mixing with overhead mixer at low RPM until complete dissolution (adding ice to water bath needed) > mix until the solution to reaches RT (adding ice to water bath needed) > anhydrous EtOH or Iso (≄99.9% purity) while mixing with overhead mixer at low RPM > transfer to HDPE storage bottles with minimal headspace, tightly cap and seal cap with electrical tape (to reduce moisture and CO2 absorption) > label and store at ≀70’F (preferably rebottle every 30 days, max 60 days)

Other considerations:

  • Replace the HPDE mixing vessel with a new one after ~10-20+ uses
  • Dr. Choi doesn’t list the base salt purities, so I assume 90% for KOH and 99% for NaOH unless COA states otherwise.
  • Typically, NaOH is higher purity (>99%) than KOH’s typical purity (>90%), has a shorter dissolution time, and has a weaker exothermic reaction, so it probably makes sense to use NaOH.
  • Dr. Choi lists a double water rinse after soaking in base bath (tap rinse > dH2O rinse), but it would probably be better to do the standard triple dH2O rinse (with the last rinse using ddH2O). Then, test the final rinse water with a calibrated lab-grade or research-grade pH meter to confirm a complete rinse. Note that dH2O pH is 7.0, but the dissolution of CO2 creates carbonic acid, which drops dH2O to ~5.8 pH at equilibrium. If pH is below 7.0, the rinse is complete.
  • The acetone solvent rinse (post-H2O rinse) should probably be a double rinse to account for dilution of the acetone by water, using ≄99.9% pure acetone (USP grade).
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So the better you extract and the more pure you make the thca the worse it will polycrystal.

Duda Diesel has your food grade NaOH, and remember kids, it will EAT you!!

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For sure, on both counts!

The only chemical I didn’t link to at Duda Diesel is their EtOH. The links above for NaOH, KOH, and Iso are all for Duda Diesel :fist_right::fist_left:

And yeah, these strongly basic chemicals solutions aren’t anything to take lightly. Doubly so for the dH2O + base (KOH or NaOH) solution (prioer to adding EtOH or Iso) while preparing the base bath solution, which comes in about 20% w/w base. :adhesive_bandage: :safety_vest::

Full PPE is a must, including long sleeve shirt, shoulder length nitrile dipped gloves, pants, and safety goggles (not safety glasses) with at least an N95 face mask, but ideally a half-face respirator (an organic vapor cartridge [#60921] with an N100, R100, or P100 particle filter).

Just ask Edward Norton:

Edit:

I want to mention that anyone who wants to use this method must understand what they’re doing to avoid injury. There are many usage points I didn’t cover because I was only writing about base bath solution preparation, please read Dr. Choi’s complete SOP (it includes additional steps I didn’t cover, PPE, etc.). Also, I should point out that disposal of the base bath solution requires basicity neutralization with a dilute solution of weak acid until you reach a pH of 7-8.

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Yes thats part of it, he has a longer SOP as well with a acidic wash as part of the process as well to neutralize pH - using muriatic acid. At much lower concentrations than the base bath.

Followed by a dH2O rinse after.

Im not sure if extra strength is a better thing, you can stain/ruin your glass horribly if you dont properly wash/neutralize the very basic pH of the glass/bath, so there may be reason for that. Its not something ive studied however, but NaOH is also much cheaper so if it just requires extra washes than definately sounds like the move.

Not sure what the goal of the acetone is at the end tho tbh, can you explain what that does for the process?

Another thing to note is that your grease for joints will NOT dissolve in the mixture you must clean off so before “bathing” the glass.

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Definately a good option if you got the time/energy for it, id often work stupid long days and ache for the batch to finish so i can shut it all of and just dip. I had a 22l and body took a long time so with the extra head it didnt really take any distillation time out the day to do so.

Cyclo@cyclopath
replying to your post because you will understand the irony
.

Washing cannabinoid contaminated utensils with “”basic water””

Yes!

4200 Butane Group: do you understand what you are doing
?

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Not usually, but that’s what makes it fun.

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