With the growing demand for pesticide free product, it is becoming more and more important to utilize living pest controllers, aka bio-control. I would like to lear the communities methods and techniques for protecting one’s farm, so I’ll start the sharing!

My first three bio controls are hormones/stimuli that cause the cannabis plant to strengthen it’s defenses by inducing systematic acquired response: cells walls, protective cuticles, and internal pressure. To achieve this I utilize three products.

  1. The first is chitosan, found in the “Beyond” line of additives and also in the wild as “chitosan”. Chitosan, when applied via a foliar feed or to the root mass directly, tricks the cannabis plant into thinking it is being attacked by bugs. Chitosan is a product of reacting shellfish chitin in a basic solution. Here is what people much smarter than me have to say about chitosan and it’s uses (Chitosan as a growth aide)
    Marine Drugs | Free Full-Text | Chitosan in Plant Protection (Chitosan as a immune system regulator)

  2. The second is Harpin Protiens. These are dangerous and expensive, so make sure you test a sample on a couple plants first. Cannabis sometimes reacts unpredictably to harpin, but when it is beneficial, it is very beneficial. (Study of cotton yields when foliar feeding with Harpin) (A study of the affects of harpin and salicylic acid creating an immune response)

  3. The third is salicylic acid. Found naturally in the willow tree, salicylic acid promotes healthy growth and the formation of calluses for propagation/tissue culture. When used alone or in conjunction with other biocontrols, it exhibits one of the gentlest SAR and can be utilized as early as a seedling. (A test of salicylic acid and vitamin e to determine productivity increases)

Here is a freebe article on biostimulants because I can’t figure out exactly where to place it.

This is a youtube video on utilizing microbes as biocontrolers

This is a youtube video on Florida’s fight against invasive plants (air potato) utilizing biocontrols

Thank you for your time.


I avoid foliar feeding /treatments at all costs, just more junk to end up in your extracts. A cold enviroment can interfere bug reproduction and life cycles, same with high co2 levels. Adequate air flow/low humitity will keep molds to a minumum. Most importantly don’t bring any people/animals into the grow area, thats a big vector for contamination.


I used foliar feeds for the vegetative stage. All three of those biocontrols can be applied to the soil as a drench. I assume most of the hemp growing is done outdoors, so that limits one’s ability to modify the grow atmosphere/temperature.

On the topic of animals bringing in contamination, does this include hens/guineas in runs surrounding one’s field? What about predatory birds like the blue tit? Do predatory insects like Encarsia formosa count in this description of animals too? I understand viruses/fungi/and bacteria spread through insects, but I feel like a wasp would be a worse transmitter of disease than whitefly.

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Fun fact, if you BioPulp spent biomass, the mushrooms used are a valuable source of chitosan as well!


I just downloaded the data dump, and I’m reading bio pulping right now! AMAZING!!! I LOVE THIS SITE!!!


Essential oils are very interesting in this regard. Cinnamon will kill fungus thyme kills yeast
Sandelwood kills all mites all at considerations in the ppms. Well below phytotoxisty . Google scholar has an abundance of hard lititure to back that up.


Biocontrols and application can be made systematic by adding various other plants to a grow. Some Predators Insects in nature switch between a plant base diet of pollen and prey.

Currently This stratergy is applied in some greenhouses.

There are sites That mentioned Some predator and their alternatieve food sources.

This combined with a systematic brix metering of plant material with a good Nutrition plan can detect and prevent even slight changes that lead to pest invasion.


Marigolds are very effective at repelling insects/nematodes with their flowers/roots!
Green onions and chives make a good border to repel herbivorous insects


I just bought a old table top grinder thingy! I am very excited to get to smashing up some crabshels!
Chitosan seems to be helping organic cannabis farmers. Being that I am the cannacrabber I feel its my duty to try and make some sence of this. I am no chemist . I do have access to all the dead crabs I want as i mentioned in another thread. But the sluff shells are gonna make this alot easier. No guts to rot. Just straight up shell. We bring in peeler crabs and place them into a bunch of ceramic like 10 inch thick tubs . They have fresh water hooked up to them at all time to encourage the crabs to climb out their shells. After they do that they usually get thrown back into the bay. I am now collecting them and letting them dry . I have some beans that im planting in solo cups . I imagine I will use them in the soil this run and continue to collect shells. I need to continue to research how to convert the pulverized shell and what methods to use. Thank you all for the links and open forum ingeneral! Im about to put on some gloves n get busy!


Organic acids also play a huge part in plant pest and mold resistance. These include Gallic, Cinnamic, Malic, Caffeic, Ferulic, Phenylacetic, Fumaric, Benzoic, Succinic, Shikimic, Protocatechuic, Lactic, Fulvic, Acetic, and Humic acids. (Shameless plug)

Table 1. Fulvic Mineral Powder Flavonoids 03_13_2020 AgTonik.pdf (667.4 KB)

A buddy was telling me that wood vinegar (pyroligneous acid) also has a whole different set of organic acids also suitable for pest and mold resistance. I’ll have to check it out when I get some time.


As far as predatory insects being vectors of disease and contamination, the short answer is Yes, but the longer answer is Yes…but… lol Basically, what I’m saying is, they of course can carry contaminations on their bodies like any living creature but they lack the ability to directly transmit it to the plants themselves via feeding. A pest such as whitelfy, to use your example, will always be a more dangerous vector of contamination and infection because they will feed directly on the plant (and shit directly onto the plant) and potentially transmit bacterial or fungal pathogens that way. Predators will reduce the populations of the pest and therefore help to mitigate the larger risk of contamination that they pose.

Things like birds and larger mammals that would be in the area are unfortunately a much bigger risk of contamination but if you treat it like a vegetable farm (ie. Dont let your chickens run amok in the grow area itself) it shouldn’t be an issue; as the main concern is from the feces.


Im curious, how are you using your Brix readings from cannabis to determine courses of action? Like, how are you reading into your brix readings? I am starting to take them as a project but I’m not really sure exactly what I’m looking for. Whats an average brix reading for cannabis in your opinion?


Biocontrols… oh man where do I even start!

Everybody should be looking at following organic IPM practices at their farms. It doesn’t matter if you aren’t organic, you can still follow organic practices… hell that also helps a bunch with marketing.

Biological controls are the use of natural enemies, pathogens, and competitors to control pests and the damage they cause.

Biocontrols can be:

  • Predator Insects
  • Parasitic Insects
  • Microbial pesticides/fungicides

Let’s break each of those down a bit more:

Predatory Insects : These insects kill and feed on pests

  • Predator Mites
  1. Stratiolaelaps scimitus
  2. Amblyseius swirskii
  3. Neoseiulus californicus
  4. Phytoseiulus persimilis
  5. Amblyseius andersoni
  6. Neoseiulus fallacis
  • Green Lacewing
  • Orius Insidiosus
  • Nematodes

Parasitic Insects: These insects lay their eggs in pests, the eggs hatch and eat the pest from the inside out.

  • Parasitoid Wasps
  1. Aphidius colemani
  2. Aphidius ervi

Microbial Pesticides/ Fungicides & BioPesticides: A pesticide/fungicide derived from natural materials and/or living beneficial microorganisms.

  • Microbials
  1. Bacillus thuringiensis
  2. Chromobacterium subtsugae
  3. Apopka Strain 97
  4. Beauveria Bassiana
  5. Bacilus subtilis
  6. Bacillus pumilis
  7. Trichoderma

These are best paired with cultural controls (gowning procedures, no pets in the grow, etc) to try and keep the grow as clean as possible.


When evaluating inputs for the garden, there are only 16 elements and 5 classes of biostimulants to make plants grow. Base nutrients, biostimulants and biocontrols can also supress pests and disease without the use of toxic agrochemicals, known as IPM or Integrated Pest Management. Used holistically, you can have a healthy environment for your growing operation.

The 16 elements for plant growth are comprised of primary, secondary and micronutrients. The primary elements are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The secondary nutrients include calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S).The final essential elements are used in small quantities by the plant, but nevertheless are necessary for plant survival. These micronutrients include iron (Fe), boron (B), copper (Cu), chlorine (Cl), Manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn), cobalt (Co), and nickel (Ni). These can be obtained with soluble salt versions or natural “organic” inputs.

A quick note on natural fertilizer inputs. In over-simplified terms “organic” just means the substance contains a carbon molecule. I use the phrase “natural” to avoid confusion with OMRI organic certification which requires paying a fee to use their organization’s logo on inputs.

There are 5 types of biostimulants that improve plant growth and resist salinity, pH, pest/disease and biotic stress.

1- Plant extract- Kelp, alfalfa, shellfish, etc. with various hormone-like activities
2- Beneficial microbes- Mycorrhizae, bacteria and enzyme products
3- Minerals- Silica, molybdenum, carbon and other trace elements
4. Humates- Fulvic, humic and other organic acids
5. Hydrolysates- protein and non-animal amino and peptide byproducts

There are exceptions, but many of these biostimulants interact to assist plant growth.

Biocontrols use several natural methods to suppress pests and disease and are “integrated” together for plant growth. Surface pH, bacteria/mycorrhizae, oils, silica are used to suppress pests and disease.

If you understand how fertilizer and biocontrols interact and work for your growing operation, you can have a healthy garden without paying the ridiculous green tax at the hydroponics store.


I’ve always wanted to figure out a way to go around having to get MJ if possible what would be the best way to mitigate myco for my own at such hire spore/gram

@Cheebachiefextracts For pure rhizophagus intrardices, you do have to culture it. I’m not sure what the medium is to isolate it. There are teks to grow a holistic beneficial rhizosphere using leaf mold.

DIY foliar treatment using biocontrols is simple and there are just some easy guidelines.

The base mix is either 15-30 ml insecticidal/Dr. Bronners soap or 2.5-5 ml sunflower lecithin per gallon as an emulsifier. Depending on your needs, you then add:

Agsil16- 1.5g/gal.
Neem oil- 15-30ml/gal.
Sodium/potassium bicarbonate- 2% by weight (1-2 tbs/gal.)
Essential oils- 3.25-15ml/gal.
Sulfur (wettable)-1-3 tbs./gal.
AGT-50 or Mr. Fulvic fulvic mineral complex- 0.5-1ml/gal.
Pyroligneous acid (wood vinegar)- 0.5-2ml/gal.
Brewer’s yeast- 0.5g/gal.
Potassium sorbate- 0.025% to 0.1%
Sodium benzoate- up to 0.1%
Citric acid/sodium citrate- up to 0.5%
Soy/canola oil- 15-30 ml
Isopropyl alcohol- 3.25-15 ml/gal
NPK fertilizer- 5-100ml/gal (RTU, not concentrate)

ALWAYS START LOW AND WORK YOUR WAY UP. Spray right before lights go out or in the dark. Always rinse plants the following day using just base spray until run off when using powders.


Anndddddddddddd this is how to grow GREAT WEED


IPM is proactive methodology. For reactive issues in the garden like pests and disease, here are two of my methods to respond to pests and disease:

DIY Green Cleaner

1 gallon of RO water
30 ml cold pressed neem/canola/soybean oil
30 ml Sal Suds/Dr. Bronners/Insecticidal Soap
36 ml 70% isopropyl alcohol

15-60ml/gal. foliar. Spray right before lights go out, in the dark, or in indirect light outside.

DIY Root Cleaner

1 gallon of RO water
15 ml cold pressed neem/canola/soybean oil
15 ml Sal Suds/Dr. Bronners/Insecticidal Soap
18 ml 70% isopropyl alcohol

Mix 30ml homemade Root Cleaner/gal. H20 and apply on Day 1 and Day 7 . Depending on container size, pour 2-3 cups of mixed Root cleaner solution (per 1 gallon container) at the base of each plant , than quickly water and soak the Root Cleaner solution into the media until it thoroughly irrigates through the bottom. Wait 20 minutes, than flush with water thoroughly to rinse your media. You must let your media dry for day than feed nutrients and beneficials. Do not over water or have any stale stagnant water sitting around. DIY ROOT CLEANER ONLY WORKS IN CONTAINERS, NOT SOIL.


Would it be justifiable if someone were to use DI water over RO ?

I personally use ro but just getting these questions out for those who may be interested.

Also takes on rain water if properly collected & not from acidic eviroments like some islands.

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Dr Bronners for the win! Been preaching this for years