Best way to learn working with uv light assist is running normal runs with the uv on close to the glass wear and dimmed light
Thc turns. Mostard green in first pass and a broccoli stem green on second pass
It takes some practice but the advantage is that once under the belt
You can start with hot. Condensor of the start and use this as one of tour parameters
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Still eyeballing it. Getting better however.
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Iāll happily take this learners kit if others decline.
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Select the 100 LED version.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077ZNBQ83/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Is the BF 1 neck or 2 neck?
One or three. Iām gonna run it with one tonight, because there is no temp probe in the mantle. Happy to ship the 3-neck as well. The two stage robinair looks like it pulls down to 80microns, not ideal, but it will probably work well enough.
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I recalled about 10min in that @Beaker had a PiD controller he plugged his mantles into. That was not amongst the bits I managed to retrieve. 140microns was marginal at best.
A variac will do to yet rhe magnet mixer only starts at 1/2 voltage
All yours friend if you are still interested.
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Does anyone have experience with usalab.comās Glass? Iām just trying to gauge where it falls on the scale. Is it cheap Chinese glass, with a markup? Or is it quality? Note, Iād guess there are some quality products that come out of China. Just sayinā¦
Thanks!
Even Chinese beakers suck, in my opinion. The damn markings were off and threw off the ratios on my entire project. You get what you pay for. This is what Iāve realized with buying equipment so far
Budget Gear (gets the job doneā¦barely): $
Quality Budget Gear (gets the job done right): $$$
Top of the line Gear (gets the job done just a bit better): $$$$$$$$$$$
I rock their re-510 rotovap, and their 2l spd glass kit, and upgraded black case mantle. Zero issues so far. Iāve put thru easily 200+ gallons thru the rotovap, and 3 runs on the spd. 86.7%, 91.6%, and 91.4% thc on all 3 spd runs (1st pass).
Call and ask for David. Heās the owner.
I also run their dlsb-5/10 chiller for the rotovap. I only have 12hrs on it. So far, almost 2x faster than my prior tap runs. All tap runoff goes into plant res.
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I have a few of their glass pieces and have bought quite a bit of stainless bits from there as well. Tanks of butane. Dry ice. Vac oil. Filter paper.
Every time I walk into that place im like a kid in a candy store. Especially when they bring you back into the warehouse. Epic.
The big difference between there and china is. You spend a couple more bucks, but if something screwed up you can get it replaced immediately, instead of waiting 2 months for something to ship back and get reshipped from china. Plus if your local, you can get a free soda while your shopping.
10/10 would and will buy from again.
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For glass I havenāt really found a ā$$$ā level (btw as for chinese glass my only personal experience has been beakers and vials) but when I say the Chinese stuff was bad I mean even the rim around the top of the beaker was visibly uneven to the naked eye. This is a beaker. Something you would think is pretty simple to produce with the right equipment. I can only imagine what the shafts would be like on the joints for their boiling flasks. Something that actually requires exact specifications for an air tight seal.
Now, donāt get me wrong. China has the ability to make a high quality product, but when a wholesaler comes in and says āI need these beakers, and I need them made for $0.98 or less.ā (and this is more often than not the case) China isnāt left with much option but to produce a subpar product.
However, I must say my statement was more generally related to the instruments we use than it was specifically related to glass, lol. I think if anything, of all the pieces in an spd setup, my comment would least apply to glass. But still applicable!
It is a useful tool. Not the right one, but one that gives Helpful feed back.
On warm up in the morning, I pull to the same number, or I run the gas ballast or change the oil.
Then I pull on an empty system & expect the SAME number.
During a run, the numbers change when something starts or stops boiling. Ruturning to approx the same number as on an empty system if I donāt bump the temp.
Is that number Iām using correct in an absolute sense? I doubt it. But it does seem repeatable enough that it gives the operator something they can work with.
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Well, I finally received all the parts and pieces. Of course, I totally didnāt even think about a space to set it up. I doubt my wife will go for setting it up on the kitchen counter, so I through a table/counter top together, then put the kit together, just to make sure I know how. Anyway, its coming along. Trying to have it ready for the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, as Iāll have plenty of down time.
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Think I am going to need to raise the heat mantle, so that changing the cow is easy. Right now, the jack stand is as low as it goes.
Also, can anyone tell me, should there be a gasket for the heat mantle thermometer to stay snug? The cap that came with the kit is doesnāt have a gasket, so it moves freely? Maybe I just need to use teflon tape?