what confuses me is that the device I’ve interacted with has a 110V plug on it…and the picture in the manual seems to show one too. While stating 220!!
how does one get 8kW of heating out of a 20A 110 circuit?!?
Even at 220V, my math says the heating alone requires a 40A circuit. add the ultrasound in, and we’re looking at 50A min.
I’m only getting 83V at the terminals that are supposed to fire the heating element, although I’ve got another meter that bounces around and suggests I’m seeing 1034V, so I’m suspicious I’m not looking at 60Hz anymore.
Across says it’s Xtractor Depot’s problem.
They’e not answering their phones…
if they didn’t have a $10k list price (down from $15k!!) I’d just throw new cord caps on there and plug them into 220. The one I checked out yesterday didn’t have a serial number on or any electrical specs at all…
I’ve opened it up, and I’m not sure how the control board is functioning…it’s being fed from a nominal 15V/5V transformer that is clearly labeled 220V 50hz.
the ultrasonic horns are functional (make noise), although the max amplitude shown on the display is 2.6A rather than the 6.0-6.5A “optimal” suggested by the manual (again pointing to incorrect input voltage).
Edit: Solved. manual fails to mention the need to get an electrician to install a 220V 40A disconnect on the wall where you want this thing to play.
yeah, when I found it, those to were not connected. however, connecting them does not solve the problem. there is no other power input listed in the manual, or obvious on the device. I do RTFM for a living. this fine manual doesn’t match the device…
No familiar with RTFM, I am or used to be an electrical contractor and you are definitely right on that the 8k watts doesn’t make sense for a 20A 120v plug end. I have had Mantles that said 220v but came with 120v cord ends and I cut them off and changed to a 220v cord end. But with this unit being so expensive I wouldn’t attempt this unless instructed to or you could permanently damage some internals.
RTFM == an admonition to Read the Fine Manual (or some such).
I could certainly put a 220V plug on those wires. that would give me a thermostated heating bath. with no off switch. connected to a ultrasonic controller putting out less than 1/3rd of “optimal”.
I’ll check the resistance on those elements tomorrow. if they’re really 8kW, just any old 220 won’t cut it.
I don’t have pictures of the internals on my phone. thought they might be making 220V internally, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.
ya if it made 220v internally it would be a phase generator and that seems unlikely for a unit to have a phase generator when things could easily be wired for 220v rather than an expensive phase generator build in. Can you take a picture of the plaque on the unit that says the electrical requirements?
GLRTFM is the term that is more relevant to this thread.
Good Luck Reading The Fucking Manual.
Side note, they advertise being able to fit 22l RBF in this unit, but i was always under the impression you never wanted to ultra sonic glass that goes under deep vacuum due to the waves potentially causing micro cracks.
Shoot me an email at andrew@xtractordepot.com and I’ll get my team to provide you help on setup. The 110v is for the controller and 220v is for the heaters/ultrasonic part of the machine.
This unit is way bigger than 30L and is a much higher spec product in terms of heating and ultrasonic power. You can fit a 50L flask in the bath. It pays for itself in cleaning costs in very little time.
