I got that amazon 30L … works mint
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Rumor has it there is a video on the way. Not sure why.
All I need to know is if the only obvious wiring choice is the correct one.
As it makes zero sense electrically, I’m more than a tad dubious.
this next pic is WRONG
no seriously: WRONG WRONG WRONG
That is NOT where those wires go!!!
Elements are rated 220V 4kW. Didn’t have to put a meter on them, the unopened bath had an extra pair in there. They are hand labeled (engraved) as 220V 4kW. The contactor between them and those “220V” wires appears rated for 110V. The unopened unit had 4 spares…(edit: not actual spares. Installed contactor is 220V)
I could upload pictures of all the sides that don’t have said label 
I think two dozen would cover the places I’ve looked. Unless you count the insides. I’ve looked there too.
Edit: The “obvious” wiring makes no sense because the terminals on the wires are too big for the terminal block…but it’s not like I have enough wire for any other choice 
Clearly the wrong approach. Output voltage tied to potentiometer for horn Amplitude…(AC. 36kHz range, which was confusing my meter).
Can you put two 5gal buckets in yours?!?
With room to spare?
Be great if it had 8kW of heat…
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No that would be pretty cool though.
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yeah. unfortunately.
I believe I understand what I’m up against at this point, now I’ve got to decide how to solve it. Unit claims to be 7cu.ft, which the all knowing one says is around 52gal. I’m just going to approximate that to 50gal for the sake of the math. Actually I’m just gonna skip the math, and point you at this water heating calculator.
If I leave the elements in parallel, I need ~40A, and get 8kW of heat, which gives me ~1hr heat up from 25C to 65C. if I just use one element, I need ~20A, and it takes 2:13min. If I run them in series, then I only get 2kW and it will take 4:20min or there abouts.
20A 220V outlets are trivial around here. 40A usually requires a pro. Either way the easy solution looks like an off the shelf motor starter box. eg https://motorsandcontrol.com/weg-electric-pesws-50v24ax-rm36-1ph-50-amps-25-40-overload-range-208-240-coil-voltage-iec-enclosed-motor-starter-nema-4x-enclosure-start-stop-reset-pushbuttons/ with a cord and plug.
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And bye bye to warranty…
given the internals, I’m not convinced that running the control box on 220V is inappropriate. there are no electrical specs anywhere on the units (I’ve got two).
@ChangMinXD had his crew make a video yesterday, the take home from which was “a hard wired 40A 220V disconnect is required. the 220V leads then go to that”.
which really should be added to that oh so fine manual… maybe in the future? 
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Glad to see solutions.
Yeah. I figured it might be worth documenting the solution.
That screen cap with arrows above is my work…done so my current handler doesn’t insist I interact with the electrician directly on Monday.
It’s not that I have a problem with the bringers of electrickery, I suspect it’s my never ending demands for power 
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No need for a motor starter, just get a 60 amp 240v Single phase Nema 1 disconnect, should be pretty cheap. You’ve gotta size the wire to 125% of the FLA which would be 50 amps or #8 wire and a 50 amp breaker assuming 75c connections.
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Fun warranty voiding trick which may ignite your lab: most electric heaters have multiple coils in series (pretty much every immersion heater I’ve ever dealt with, Omega, Chromalox etc). If you rewire them in parallel, you get moar heating. Learned this when we had one show up with the jumper bars disconnected and we took a guess which way to do it lol
Edit: I should probably point out that taking two coils in series and putting them in parallel will increase the capacity and also current 4 times. So. Beware.
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Any idea where can we find that video?