You can buy 4 feet by X# feet rolls of nylon mesh filter material and even rolls of fine mesh stainless steel screen on Amazon. I know what you mean about stabilizing with the lid. You just need to fashion a metal bar or cross that will span the opening and clamp in place, which has the necessary plastic swivel cup thing in the center like the lid has.
Got my Panda today, and it has a nice little message on top.
Do not spin dry items with explosive or flammable elements
Ethanol? you’re good. just don’t spin any hydrogen or phosphorous
for those of you who understand that batch production is gonna get old …
not perfect for our usage, but redefines the problem in an interesting manner.
i have this link open in my browser. lol.
So did you buy and test the mega spinner? It sounded like you did or were going to do that.
you figured out a price? or have thoughts on compatibility?
I’m seriously considering adding an NSEP 755 to our hemp processing once we get the CUP dialled in.
No it’s just random coincidence, I was in this thread bouncing around. I didn’t get a quote or do analysis or anything. It’s funny, i’m in the HEMP space too and my big concern is that i’m dealing with such varied starting material of different grinds. All this tech is for clothes, and people are using it for nugs or trim. I’m assuming that’s fine but i’m dealing with powdery stuff sometimes. ugh.
why are your customers choosing the grind on the biomass?
HTF are you supposed to optimize your processes if you can’t control the grind on the biomass?
Potency is one thing, you can at least know that going in, but having to change up your filtration on the customers whim?
no thank you!
As far as worrying about “laundry tek”…The CUP was designed from the ground up for cannabis, but the concept of a spin dryer is an old one.
The explosion proof BOCK/NSEP model certainly leverages BOCKs 100 years in the laundry business, but was targeted at solvent recovery (jet fuel) for the US armed forces.
The Panda and the domestic washing machine heading this thread are for certainly for drying laundry. The hobart was targeted at food. NSEP services the food market as well. looks like ample evidence to support cross task utility.
extracting in the right mesh bags seems to be the most common working solution.
May I ask what micron size works best?
I’ve only got a single data point, and it’s an unknown.
if you scan back through the thread you’ll see 220um mentioned, along with 25um & 45um. At a guess, I’d say delta provided something in between.
I don’t know what Delta shipped and I’m not convinced it’s ideal. It’s what I’ve currently got, and until I settle on a biomass grinding solution, it’s what I’ll use. if I was going to run with the futurolla, I’d probably be shopping for 25um or 45um right now.
The micron size will vary depending on how fine you grind. Think back to bubble bags, remember which bags drained the best and retained the most particles?
I tried the Panda with an co2 expanded acetone last weekend and it seems to discolor the plastic it touches. I’m thinking about taking it apart and epoxying the plastic
I’m still a little scared the thing is gonna blow up one day
I’d be scared I was smoking the plastic!
Much Iike @Soxhlet I’d be more worried about the plastic in your extract.
I doubt those things are safe with Acetone. Not many plastics are. HDPE, Nylon, and PTFE look to be the major exceptions.
You took the lid off too didn’t you
Totally! That’s why I was thinking epoxy to make it chemical resistant. Looks like you may be able to take off the top and the spout and paint it with epoxy.
I am debating on if I should be using it for acetone. It is near -78C when I put it in the machine and the flash point is -20C. I may just go with a solution where I put a latex sheet on top of a container and use vacuum to pull the last bits out
What kind of epoxy is resistant to acetone?
Well, the Rust-Oleum epoxy I just put on my floor is chemical resistant.
I actually have a shop around here that specializes in plastics and epoxies and I was thinking to hit them up for some suggestions.
The only drawback from that method is erosion of the epoxy, eventually it will flake. These flakes will make their way into your product. This isn’t exactly a glass lined steel reactor. I don’t mean to be a buthead, or criticize you. Is there a way you could remanufacture the plastic parts to upgrade your dryer? I used to do all kinds of crazy stuff when I worked in the plastics industry. I could recommend some shops depending on where you are.
I am in Seattle and I was planning to go-to TAP Plastics.