Trying to coat pre-rolls the right way... any help so very appreciated

Try staying away from ethanol ur gonna have good amount of ppms in there from the terps holding onto some ethanol i think

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Yes I was advised a while ago in general to stay away from the ol ethanol spraying method for mostly everything

Iā€™m thinking that if you coat in disty, then coat in kief like youā€™ve done, you could warm them up a bit to soak up the kief, making them sticky again. At that point, roll them in kief again to soak up the disty. Maybe do that a couple times until there is no longer enough disty to be sticky to the touch.

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Cart farming disty with a lil terps in the end and then cigar glue the kief on the outside seem like the best method imho

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Iā€™d rather not have kief on the outside if anything non cannabis has to be used.

I think all inside and making your customers aware is better than the cigar glue.

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Ok if I got it right your aim is to get the D9 disty a glassy viscosity sorta like pure D8
Close enough to share some of my findings
In making D9 hash out of Cbd pollen
When loading D9 pollen on Cbd pollen there s a limit for if not it will become a stiky mess
Luckily a another member @stoopkid :pray: gave a hint that
Made me a trail to look into the natural occurring fats and waxes of cannabis and this has helped me a lot in rising the viscosity of
The d9 disty making it less sticky and therefor beeing able to load way more on Cbd kief

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Hang on please tell me youā€™re not adding those things to something people are smokingā€¦ the whole reason we remove them during winterization is they are dangerous to inhale at high concentrations. Those are paraffinsā€¦ you canā€™t just dump those on flower. I mentioned some of the waxes so people could have their lab confirm if people were cutting their isolate with winterized waxes as they are dangerous. Not so people could add it to something you smoke. Paraffins are directly linked to lipoid pneumonia. Just because itā€™s natural or exists in cannabis doesnā€™t make it safe.

This type of thing stresses me out. The amount of data I want to put out there but always choose not to because every time I do it somehow gets used for all the wrong reasons. As Iā€™ve said in many posts, paraffins are pretty much one of the worst things in the entire plant to put in your lungs.

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There is a long thread on here about spraying flower. I think ether won as a solvent?

Me? I only work with disty. If you mean the light coating of Arabic Gum to coat in kiefā€¦ forgive me for my ignorance but from what I understand itā€™s not toxic. It would be lightly coated out on outside. Assuming you were referring to me. I just source disty now but I used to winterize so I am familiar with what you meanā€¦

Ah i see arabic gum is a parrafin. It wouldnā€™t be dumped on the flower but I suppose even if its lightly coated on the outside it would still be inhaledā€¦ although it was earlier mentioned that coating on the outside doesnt get inhaledā€¦ so coating is more of a marketing device. The flower is raw inside the paperā€¦

Karma twax joints in Oregon somehow does it nicely with concentrate and kief. Itā€™s possible. Wish I had more advice, but thatā€™s the company we used in our stores because they stayed lit right and sold well. Best of luck, thank you for sharing your efforts.

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All right. I think this is a good idea, but I wanted to let you know how I have done this before. 1) I got my kief super dry and not the best sift, meaning still ā€œplant powderā€ present in the kief. Slightly less golden a bit darker, but not crazy green.

I use RAW cones - I found that cone material also had impact.

I use an airbrush (the same one I use to paint 40k modelsā€¦its by Master Airbrush, and has a glass chamber you can heat and SS connections, uses compressed air) to spray a very light coating of distillate. Its ethanol extracted, 2nd pass distillate. Usually between 88 and 90% THC. So Iā€™m not brushing at all and thereā€™s hardly any distillate going onto the pre-roll. Iā€™m talking like milligrams of distillate being used - its super sticky but doesnā€™t ā€œsoakā€ the cone.

Then I use a hand sieve to give a very light coating of kief on the outside, this one is 10 micron, Iā€™ve had success with bigger ones, but not so big that it comes out quickly, very little quantities I think is how this is successful. Kief in top, tap tap on the side. Very light dusting. I do store them in the fridge right after before packaging them in their glass tubes (I use glass, with a plastic corkā€¦) And if you shake it around inside the tube then some kief will fall off and cloud the glass, but I try not to shake them around in the tube. :slight_smile:

I suppose I could use another method - but this is similar to what I did with tablet coating and gummy coating activities for small batches. In pharma I had a spray lance instead of an airbrush - so whatever works to have a very light spray (no drips) will probably work here. And I always used a sieve from above and then tumble or shake coating. Here the ā€œtumbleā€ is me turning them like a quarter turn while sieving until covered. And then I put them right back in the knockbox tray, standing up right. Into the fridge and then when Iā€™m ready for packaging/labeling out them come and into the tubes they go.

I suppose you could use the food glue to do this also - and not have to have any distillate. Or you could do any of the other ideas that are listed here.

In my pharma days - the key to coating was the smallest amount of adhesive/thickener/glue of choice to get the coating on.

Iā€™ll probably be making more of these in likeā€¦February? And I can share photos of my process then. It was great to see all the ideas flowing here. Iā€™d love to know if you find a method that works great for you that is different than mine and the others listed here.

Personally - I prefer water pipes or my Volcano for flower consumptionā€¦ I find these to be a much harsher smoke even if it is a slightly faster and elevated high.

More photos of your adventure and your test subjects thoughts on smoke quality would be super awesome. <3

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In roadside freak show acts, from people breathing fire. Not cigars. But, I do agree with you on not using the paraffins.

Lipoid pneumonia is also very rare.

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I have dabbed a lot of waxy crumble. The waxes condense real fast on low temp hits and get caught in your water and even condense on your lips

Thatā€™s not to say it isnt palatably worse than dewaxed stuff

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Iā€™ve made very long posts about lipoid pneumonia and agree with you that it is very rare normally. The thing is smoking waxy lip balm ingredients is also very rare. If people start caking their prerolls in paraffins like the ones I mentioned then Iā€™m not so sure it will be so rare anymore. Im trying to tell people to not add heavy alkanes of all things to smokable products or you will hurt someone. The amount in flower normally is negligible and we should keep it that way.

That wasnā€™t directed at you, @RickyFitts but Iā€™m glad my reply prompted you to do some deeper research on what youā€™re handling. I was replying to @Roguelab because he tagged me and referenced a post I made about two of these compounds some time ago. I did not even see your posts about Arabic gum as I have no interest in producing things like this.

Both compounds I mentioned previously commonly show up in test results because the plant produces them at extremely low amounts (<0.1%) but gets concentrated during extraction. For context, the problem at that time was people were adding the waxes after winterization to cut CBD isolate. Buyers were dissolving it in methanol and seeing huge losses in yield from the added cut. I suggested obtaining references for those two compounds to see if they were in above average quantities in potentially adulterated CBD isolate. Ordinarily in CBD isolate they would be ND or trace amounts at best but if those two compounds (or their dozens of isomers) were showing up in high amounts then youā€™d know someone cut your CBD isolate. This would be similar to the current ā€œmethanol testā€ but a bit more comprehensive proof to bring back to the manufacturer.

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Could I contact you about this? Weā€™ve been painting ours and need to find a way to eliminate the ā€˜meltingā€™. Wondering how you spray the Prerolls with the airbrush. Thank yku

Iā€™m away at conference so I cannot snag images of this right.

Let us reconnect in the new year after I return to work. :slight_smile:

The airbrush is heated, it puts a very fine coating - you can create an emulsion if you have issues with viscosity at low pressure with the airbrush.

Iā€™m using a standard stainless steel airbrush for art or cake decorating to do this.

Sorry I cannot be more specific just now - Iā€™m away from the office. Iā€™ll try to get video and share with you and the forum some time soon.

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Here are some Delta-8 pre-rolls I made recently. They are coated with much large particle size ā€œKeifā€ (ground hemp) for compliance). They have been exposed to temperatures of 90 degrees Fahrenheit for 1 hour and I havenā€™t had problems with sticking. These were manufactured by dipping a glass rod in pre-heated distillate + terps then spreading it evenly on the paper. The dose was measured based on an average of distillate on 20 cones all came within 70mg of the 500mg advertised dosage albeit it is not the most accurate method and probably not the best method. But it worked for me.




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You guys are wasting cannabinoids by placing them on the outside.

You customers would be better served by placing them inside

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I tried to tell them that like 5 times. They only want it on the outside.

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