They are portable beer chillers. Rollbar looks like this:
Chillers designed for this particular use have a beer lines passing thru submerged coils. Also they have a circulation pump and a line for moving the cooling liquid so one can connect it to the beer dispenser column so it look nice and deewy or wotever you call the condensation.
So you sticak a keg, co2 buttle and a chiller inside and you are set to be a “mobile” purveyour of cold beverage. It’s like a hot-dog cart but for liquids.
Yeah, it’s good to have a buddy who deals in beer related stuff. Tons of usefull stuff, quite cheap and already with all the certs for food.
I get my stuff from here: https://beerboom.pl/
One summer I used my 8 foot deep pool to chill the condensers on a 50L roto using submersible pump and vinyl tubing for recirculation.
It worked like a charm and never warmed up. The pool was in the shade half the day in NorCal and had a heater that I just swithced off so it stayed cold.
I evaporated ethanol for months that way.
Cooling pond!
I’ve thrown a spooled up 150’ hose in my hot tub that lead to sprinkler so my kids could play in the sprinkler when it wasnt summer.
I just did the same thing to make a preheat coil for my roto. Took a 20’ length of 3/8" stainless tubing we had around, bent it up, added hose barbs to the ends and tossed into the bath.
I tell myself I’ll get around to putting bulkheads on the bath and cleanup the installation, but I know that’s a lie.
[In the lab or in the grow]
Now that were talking geothermal or water pool cooling.
Heres something i did recently.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CgIPzYMDByU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
(Idk whats up with IG. It keeps directing to another video when u click the link)
174 watt geothermal cooling.
87 watts for the box fan.
87 watts for the circulating pump.
Runs at 3-4gpm circulating thru 100’ of copper tubbing 6 feet under.
If u set this up for a roto, id size the stuff in the ground a bit bigger than 100’ of coil.
I’ve been wanting to try some buried coils or use an old well for cheap geothermal
What ID of the copper?
Two 1/2" ID 50’ long copper brewer coils in the ground connected to a 1" manifold, with a 3/4" transfer line between the manifold and radiator.
Radiator is 2x 1/2" copper lines with fins around it.
Hole was backfilled with sand so i can easily get it out if needed.
(I updated the above post with some pics just incase the video link wasnt working)
One of the first things I did on this forum before I started talking a lot of s*** is I bought some stainless and one of the parts has the most beautiful weld but it’s not fully penetrated I’ll try and find it and show a picture all the China parts that I have seem to have the weld machine off at the end
½" upgrade hack and not having to buy a rack.
Hfs sells ¼" npt to ½" jic
The inside isn’t restricted by a smaller inner diameter. I got one more to install on my injection port on my tank.
Also gotta say having my collection separate from my column by having my column on a high pressure triclamp stand that indofabs made for me is the shit I do my runs with my column isolated from my collection and do my runs through a hose. Makes lifting the collection a breeze cause the column isn’t attached to the collection and no rack needed.
That’s why I posted the open sleeved open blast columns that have welded stands on them from emerald gold ( 3" x 24" Open Blast Extractor – Emerald Gold ) because I wanted everyone to know as long as it’s high enough off the ground you can just use a free standing column with your output flare for the hose at an angle rather than a rack.
You can literally just make a lid using a triclamp to ½" to make an injection port with a gauge, prv and a shutoff (top lid) and then you can get a triclamp to ½" and put a shutoff with an angled ½" npt to jic flare (bottom lid) and grab a cheap ½" jic hose from hfs. Bam no rack needed.
Yeesh these two shutoff on the jacket seen better times. I gotta replace or tighten them. 
I love these for sight glasses… but just realized instead of heating stubborn jar lids after the fuge, or where adding heat would not be advised…
Also… tired of struggling to get full socks in and out of your column? Try using two socks loosely filled with your previous sock maximum spread between them and packed into the column. Less surface area to stick means it’s easier to push and pull the damn things.
Thats what i do, cut the 48’s i half re sew them and then tie the strings together. In and out no problem
48" shrink down to about 36" on average I’ve found, but that extra 12" or so of length left over on a half pack into a column makes a dandy handle.
Trying to get 60" which shrink down to just about 48" in and out of a column when they are maxed out is a nightmare, if not utterly impossible. That, and since you’re no longer packing the sock until it’s in the column and you’re not scraping the sides of the sock against the column you’re no longer throwing away what had to be 1-2% of final yields just to kief flying everywhere.
Mind you if your column is frozen and you’ve got solvent in the sock this isn’t an issue, but when you’ve been heating columns to reduce solvent loss it becomes almost a necessity.
not even on poker forums do people quit- but they ban my ass. thats a pro tip= if you cant stand the heat ban the fire out the kitchen life is comfy if you dont step too close to the fire. But fire dancing is better
Graywolf has taught me all I know about extraction. I learned to buy lustermax and use filters off here. But if graywolf is still on his game id suggest him figuring out the packing columns thing efficiently. We already owe him but he seems the guy to engineer and offer free access to the design
Bob Ross doll works at poker trick of the trade I’ll get the damn picture up tomorrow but I suck at making phone post
