Acetylene torch, can’t be stuck if it’s a liquid…
Nah, but overnight soak in acetone, if it’s REALLY stubborn I’ll seal the part and acetone up in a mason jar and drop it in the ultrasonic with warm water. That clears up everything.
Nah, but overnight soak in acetone, if it’s REALLY stubborn I’ll seal the part and acetone up in a mason jar and drop it in the ultrasonic with warm water. That clears up everything.
For all you whippers out there who need both hands, throw your tray on this and it won’t move. Painters tape folded sticky side out held down by Gorilla tape. The painters tape won’t leave residue on your pan but strong enough to stay put.
Just found these, for those with smaller home grows that want inexpensive fire suppression
35$ is pretty good for something that’s hard to put a price on
They explode at 320° and release chemical fire suppressant
Don t have the same brand but the same product and they work when you need them most best investment you can do is one of these every 6-8 feet appart
This is the only acceptable method.
Oh please don’t anyone fill up flammable solvent in a primary sonication bath!!!
For large items plastic bags of ethanol work fine (obvs not acetone. Lol).
In fact you can alternate between a sous vide and sonication bath with plastic bags of ethanol containing fritted filters.
If your system starts leaking mid run and you want to “tighten” your brass nuts but they were already properly torqued, use another brass nut behind it as a backer before you tighten. I had a tech back in the trap days panic when the collection pot started leaking. He started cranking the nut tighter and the system was -60 and the nut gave out. Shot the collection pot through the roof of a house, material column sticking out the roof, the 12" clamp popped off and broke his collar bone. Only 18 psi in the system but on 12" that is alot of pressure. The backer nut in these situations will hold the clamp on if one nut breaks. the trick is to have no gap between nuts and tighten both at the same time.
Gold pure gold
Just don’t use 12” clamps…
Came up with these as the correct size to replace the o-rings on the swagelok quick connects(3/8 and 1/2"). Verify for your application
1/2" QC rebuild
fkm oring 14x1.78
fkm oring 12.42x1.78 - highest wear
fkm oring 9.25x1.78
3/8" QC rebuild
fkm oring 10.82x1.78
fkm oring 9.25x1.78 - highest wear
fkm oring 6.07x1.78
The makeshift air dryier when you run out of gas it s better than plain air
Really easy on the valves 1-2L a minute
Should be your flow for it to work properly
Triclamp adapter 307: 1.5” x 1/2” external shutoff valve, vise-grip style
…also comes in c-clamp style.
Wonder if you could throttle the flow by adjusting the twisty bit at the handle end of the vice grip
Are those non-sparking vice grips?
yeah…this works in a pinch (sorry couldn’t resist the pun) but man is it bad for your hoses. A valve is cheaper than the leak IMO
Spreading the load appropriately is important…as is not pinching too tight.
Works well with this flavor of silicone heater hose.
Strainers + waste bins from dollar tree = cheap ass hydroponic pot. All you gotta do after is drill a hole, add a grommet put your hose and air stone in.
Haven’t tried this yet but I plan on it.
All right so I’m a cheap bastard and I will usually try to utilize what I have on hand instead of buying “purpose-built fancy stuff”.
So a few years ago I bought an Edwards 28 from this dental lab that shut down and it came with a hush box and a Jun-air compressor. And for the past 4 years or so the compressor was sitting there collecting dust. Just picked up a new rotovap. I needed an easy way to empty out the collection flasks on the roto. And so… I put the compressor back into the hush box ran an air hose from the compressor to the roto collecting flasks, connected a hose at the bottom of the collecting flasks and now when I want to empty out the flasks I turn on the compressor, open up the inlets on top of the collecting flasks and open the outlet on the bottom of the flasks and voila everything makes my life easier.
Also because the compressor can overpressure the lines and the flask I added a" T" next to the the compressor with a pressure release line (don’t have a valve on it yet but we’ll get one later today)
tis indeed the way
Can’t you just gravity drain the roto collection flasks? No air compressor needed?