cleaning with a good sprayer makes things a bit easier. The nozzle can go further in the glassware. Setting on spray/mist by inserting in the neck of the flask washes of the sides.
Dear @Confluence. The statement good glasswear doesn t Need Grease is one that i can not agree with
I work under deep vacuum meaning that i have preassures of about 1 kg / cm 2 on My glass it gets heated and while heated i Need to be able to move iT
Without Grease i might get away with movment a couple if times but When i Cool My glass after a run and want to dimantel hmm with the heat and pressure there is No way dissassmbeling is gona happen without hazard
So Please don t advise working without Grease Some of us have expensive glass wear and Some of us have cheap but iT has cost us tremendouse effort to obtain
Guy s Grease your glasswear at all times
Soxhlet
Leader
19h
If the oil was really hot you could have smoked it, check for oil contamination upstream with a blacklight. Hydrocarbons will flurece under blacklight. Change the oil, check for contamination, clean then reassemble! It is possible that the jetstack has some char in it, you can take it out and lightly scrub it with scotchbrite and acetone, then reassemble.Diff pumps are pretty indestructable, clean them out and change the oil and your good to go! @Soxhlet has long sleaves as i expected
Search for vacuumpump oil inside a glass system for vacuum oil contamination with a blacklight Nice one !
drPaul
2h
If your vacuum gauge bottoms out at a reading of 0.001 in Hg (inches of mercury), that’s 0.025 mm Hg (25 mTorr). That’s not enough low-end resolution for this application. Your Welch 1400 is rated to pull as low as 0.1 mTorr, and most direct-drive pumps (with fresh oil) will pull between 7 and 20 mTorr. You won’t see those levels with your gauge.
Gum rubber tubing is pretty old-school. It will tend to absorb terpenes, which contribute to “background,” or in other words, eventually you will not be able to pump below whatever the terps’ aggregate vapor pressure is. The wire-in pvc is now in general use in instrument applications, and has the added advantage of transparency: when it starts to get fouled, you can at least see the material building up, and either remove to clean, or replace. Gum rubber doesn’t give that added clue that it’s outlived its life. @drPaul Gives Some good advise Maybe not a trick but a great tip
Thank You @drPaul
I can’t understand what your trying to say. You can click on the 3 dots below your comment you should see a pencil icon, If you click on that you can edit your comment.
one thing that saved me a huge headache when cleaning all my spd glassware was the magic of PH up and iso . mix those two together 1:1 even and over night all stains are gone brand new glassware without any damage or frustrated technicians . your welcome lol
just go to your local grow store and buy a bottle of Ph up the acidity eats through everything mix with a mother liquid so its not all ph up that stuff will each away at your skin so ware protective gloves and dilute it in some iso 1 part ph up to 1 part iso . in other words if u use 100ml of ph up use 100ml of iso to dilute it then have ur glass ware soak over night and it should be clean by morning .
I’m about to sonic a jar. Do you do it warm? Leave it open? Or just vent it?
I’m going to do it warm, with the jar shut, then vent it off. I couldn’t find the way to do it, so I’ll just give it a go!
edit:
I gave it a go doing the closed warm jar for 90s, then open jar and let vent. Allow to warm on hotplate, then another cycle. Worked well and noticed significant odor loss each time. But then one jar, while on the hot plate, its bottom broke and oil leaked out. I managed to capture most, but lost a bit. Not sure when it happened exactly. I remember hearing a distinct click/crack sound when I first put the jars into the sonic bath, could have been from temperature difference of jar and water, but it didn’t actually break until 4 cycles. Only one jar broke, the other is still intact.