how does one seal the ends of the rubber hose to each other?
I ask because last time I started building a vac chamber, I left to get some pourable silicone to make the seal, and came back to find my buddy had tried to form the seal using 3/4" heater hose. there was a huge gap where the ends of the hose came together. no way it was ever going to seal…
He had also blown through the side of the vessel welding it to a shopping cart for some reason. ?!?
after (mostly) repairing the leaks, I re-purposed the device as a warm water bath for our CLS, a task it did well for several years. It then became the prototype for a warm cannola oil “parts washer” for precleaning all the sticky stuff off our glassware.
I have some reptile heating pad on a plug-in thermostat not and a thing I’ve said the temp it regulates pretty good 80-83 or really whatever I wanted to be on I can set the vacuum chamber on that that’s what I was doing for a little while I guess I was just trying to get a little more precise…
I’m confused about what you’re talking about my Pyrex dish has a rubber silicone type dildo material, you put it around the top of the pan around the edge it’s lays right over the edge, then the clear plexiglass LiD sets to it and when you pull vacuum it sucks tight I can get Negative 30 pretty easy… The hoses are just pushed on the quarter inch Barb’s for a while I would use hose clamps to hold them on but now I just kind of cut the hose so it’s got a tight new seal every time
i ran into this problem too. i ended up cutting a small, third piece of hose to shove in between the small gap. then push really hard until vac catches
@StoneD refer to the link originally posted to see how one constructs the vac chamber you have.
instead of a custom made “dildo” seal for our chambers, we take rubber hose, and make a slice down the middle. this turns it from a hose into a strip of rubber you can snap over the top edge of the pyrex.
Ok see that’s what I’m not getting… Both my seals fit super tight, and I mean super, I’m not losing vacuum…am I not understanding what your trying to show me, if so then my bad, sound like your saying replace the green seal that’s btw the lid and the pryex… Mine gets so tight that when vac hits your not pulling them apart unless you drove something btw them… s
Basically my goal was to get vacuum with precise heating at same time sounds like for mean time I’ll have to use ahot plate when I want to go over 80-85. But the reptile heating pads does perfect for when I need that temp
I decarb something’s to, to I need high heat and low heat with hard vac…hard vac not my issue really.
Btw does anyone know what the extra port I can unscrew on my CPS 6cfm 2stage pump…I may read somewhere that it has something to do with gas not sure, gas blast maybe, what’s that
Thanks for trying though… Any idea what the extra Port is on my vacuum pump that I was asking about on the post before? Said something like gas blast maybe?
Ok buddy seems like you understand the more technical sides of the things,
Man I use to feel dumb around here,now im Just humbled by the vast amounts of knowledge held by most of the ppl here!!
So can you please give me for dummies run through of black science… And is it anything I would ever use for personal use?
The most I could understand was change the oil bc it takes in things for us vacuuming it out…
And maybe you can run that plug open or not depending on pump ratings, never really understood it.
And I think I saw on there where they was pumping nitrogen bc it’s inert…so does the nitrogen pumped into keep you from blowing up by not letting it spark?
nah, just googlefu and assburgers (apologies to other aspies. that’s what we call my flavour of “on the spectrum” at home ).
if you’re looking for a synopsis of the link above: “opening the ballast valve helps if you’re forcing your vac pump to ingest water (terps to). folks should know this. most don’t”.
I don’t believe you’re pulling a lot of water or terps into your pump, so it’s not super relevant to your usage. just keeping the oil topped up, and changing it every now and then, should work for you.
Hey buddy at Alibaba or whatever it’s called, I’ve found new vacuum oven that’s 350, it has English directions lol and Chinese lol wrote in both on the machine I think,… But she said goes from like 30-200c and holds +1/-1 temp range…is this possible? I don’t care if-10/+10 … You think for my application it might be more practical…I use about 10x a month, if I don’t I’ll start piling up! Thanks buddy, it’s got some crazy name of the company, like hoztbebsshenowwgoskiwxvswi lol no shit
I’ll copy what she wrote, something like doesn’t have a cooling thing though idk
Here’s the manual439e2c4431b1dc47bbce0f7a5937d71b.pdf (62.9 KB)
Here’s what they said
Sorry for the late reply.Because i just finish a meeting… Please check the user manual of our Vacuum drying oven in attachment for you reference.The temperature range of our oven is Room temperature+5-200C, The temperature control accuracy ± 1.0. But It doesn’t has cooling function.Definitely. everything are wrote in english. Any question please feel free to contact with me. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks and best regards. Paul Wang
***It’s small which is perfect for me, maybe 1x1 inside and about 11"tall, all inside oven dimensions
it looks to be appropriate from here. although they do mention that it tends to overshoot the set temp. 1cu.ft seems tiny. it also seems like an upgrade on what you’re running atm.
the vac ovens most others are running do not have cooling either, as such we’re (all?) limited to ambient +5 as a low end.
the 35cu.ft ones I posted earlier say they have compressors, so those probably DO allow running at ambient or even below.
