I’m getting a red ring on top of my cartridge. I understand oxidation and degumming could be and probably is the issue. Although this seems alittle different. There’s almost no space in between the top of my cartridge so im starting to think ruling out oxidation. Even though there’s slight oxidation by the holes right now. I’m just worried it’s leeching off the silicon material on the screw cap? Or possible a heavy metal? Strange because every single one has it, and like I said I understand if it was at the top with a space of oxygen between it but that doesn’t seem to be the case.
First pass, cryo washed, knockoff ccell, 2% floraplex terpenes. Took about 1 month to be noticable. Just want to hear everyone’s thoughts.
I’m just wondering how oxygen could even be getting to the top more then anywhere else considering it’s a tight screw cap fit with silicon. Just seems weird that, that is the worst spot of the oxidation.
Simple fix for this that doesnt take all this work
Just don’t strip every oz color to begin with. Settle for 1 or 2nd pass(made from good crude) that’s high thc and slightly dark in large jar. In small vapes it’s as light as urs almost. Plus I don’t have to explain why the red ring is at the top. That urs is 3-5% higher in thc and stripped everything so deal with the ring? No not hardly
just seems like big headache the super clear light yellow in big jar , that u have to store the jar w nitro or vac and to deal w the ugly ass ring
Stored in the box the carts come in! I’ve heard use jars but the most simple answer is say no to no color!
I like the idea because I would settle with morecolor yellow, although this is my first pass distilate. I would probably have to change my filtering aids (t5, carbon. Maybe celite instead?) because I don’t have a supreme spd setup either. Bought a pump from Amazon and only get between 150-400 microns.
Yeah idk how I feel about filter media if it’s the cause. I dont make disty not gonna pretend . I just stay away from the jars that look so light yellow clear. Mine looks like honey. Mixed down light yellow
I swear I think I get higher w some the color tannins
@Demontrich filter media or no ? U dont use any right?
Same problem as you bro. Eerily similar as I use same carts and same terps and same percentage. Except mine turn red within a week. Let me know if u figure it out and I’ll do the same. I haven’t tried degumming yet but I got all the supplies. Hoping that solves it. Will let u know.
What I’ve noticed is the less yellow or color the carts have the faster they oxidize. If you want long term storage vapes use yellow first pass Distillate they store better
Any advice for adjusting pH? Just washing with neutral water in sep funnel? What solvent? Ethanol? Pentane/heptane? How do you test the pH? Seems like strips would be weird to use. Never used pH strips in anything other than water. And isn’t hard to read the color of the strip if the solution you’re testing has color? Do you use a pH meter?
Off topic here but how do you like that full ceramic carts? Good hit? Any Clogs, leaks? Any miss fires?
BACK ON TOPIC: I think what demontrich said might be my only option, that or degumming. I use Di directly into my wash so im thinking it could deff be the problem.
time to invest into a sep funnel when i get a chancee, hopefully i can update you guys on this in the near future! we will see, thanks for the response’s.
Photon will tell you that oil doesnt have a ph cause it doesnt contain water. I would use the search bar and pick through some threads. I remember reading the thread too. A few classically trained chemists were going back and forth about it and it was a great read.
We have the same issues. Haven’t really tried to fix them as of yet. I know the GRM tek page talks about a polymer or powder that changes ph (or the equivalent) in order to prevent cbd from codistilling with thc and converts it to cbn so it can be collected with the tails fraction. @GreenMachine_Consult may have a solution in powder form. Should be as easy as countering the swing with a secondary alkaline powder. I know lots of the powder guys sell ph correcting powders along with t5 t41 AA and the like…
I’m looking for that thread, I vaguely remember reading something like that too. Will post here if I find it. If anyone knows the one, please link.
The way I’ve been pHing is with pH 4 brine (citric acid), pH 8ish brine (sodium bicarb), and pH 7 DI water. I’ve been checking the pH of the water after draining after each step and then the final pH 7 wash, I’ll repeat several times, but after the first wash with neutral pH the water always tests pH 7 for me. Testing the pH of the organic solvent layer whether that be ethanol or pent/heptane seems like a better way tho. Just not sure how that works.
If you are distilling at 150 micron you’ll have a tough time separating heads and mains, resulting in this color change. A general rule of thumb we used to follow is that if the system isn’t bottomed at below 30 micron, the temps will blend too closely to efficiently separate them. The end of the run is also effected by high vacuum
I always thought heads were just terpenes/nastys in the crude oil itself. Which I (think) I pull out before thick oil starts running out. So I guess my question is what exactly are heads? And what exactly are in tails? And why would they result in a color change.
Also why would people be having more red oxidation in 2nd pass plus then or is it simply that these people are not @ enough vacuum on either passes? Very interesting because it seems like alot of people are dealing with this.
