Okay so im assuming you need a a shut off/on valve? This is what ball valves are made for only. Regulating flow is for globe, butterfly, and needle valves.
Check out the NV line from hylok
NV series HYLOK -65F
Okay so im assuming you need a a shut off/on valve? This is what ball valves are made for only. Regulating flow is for globe, butterfly, and needle valves.
Check out the NV line from hylok
NV series HYLOK -65F
Thats a needle valve, no?
I’d take needle valves if the price was right, at least on the supply side of things.
Yes go towards the needle valve. They are cheaper if im not mistaken than the ball valves for your temperature needs.
Thanks, I assumed it would be the opposite!
No because your temperature rating jumps into high pressure valves. If youre going for supply out of the recovery tank look into angular valves
That’s interesting…
And even more interesting about the Luna system, after hearing the issues with it from @anon16547145 experience…
I’ll have to read up on @anon16547145 posts about them. Im going to assume the efficiency of the machine isnt the best but the safety requirements is there. I’m betting that’s the the kicker. Hmm I’m curious how much he paid for it?
He just ran one for someone (was my understanding) sorry if I’m wrong…
I hope he chimes in, I can’t remember his complaints exactly…
Keep in mind that the orifice size on most needle valves is quite a bit smaller relative to body size than a ball or globe valve.
Going to make my second pitch on this thread for people to keep an eye out for new-old stock valves on eBay.
I also find that butt or socket weld valves come up at much more of a deal than compression valves and often times you can take a badass valve and just have someone weld the ends you want in. For example, I’ve installed about 30 of these in the last 6 months and haven’t had a single leak:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FNW-Stainless-Steel-Sanitary-Ball-Valve-1-2-2000-CWP-CF8M-Socket-Weld/382959998972?hash=item592a31d7fc:g:H2YAAOSwArNdFlaL
Yes hopefully he does. I already see a few flaws on it. And excuse me fellas it’s been since the start of the year since I was on that project. I’ve been out of the game with candian systems.
I’ll recommend this company for custom builds if you know what your doing. I’ve personally met with that team and they make superb equipment and are professional as they come. Shit our meetings lasted over four hours and they didn’t even care on taking the time to make sure the system is exactly what you want. You may come out cheaper going through them than buying an inefficient system.
https://www.highlandequip.com/
They do not know how to build extraction systems. You will need to be the brains on the design but they can build the gear and make sure it passes regulation. They have expedited route to getting everything CRN.
Now I did talk to @GreenMachine_Consult back than and at that time I know he was about getting his equipment CRN registered. Shipping from China is way cheaper than US. Now I’m not sure if he has the time to do it but if y’all are serious make sure you require the CRN in your privince only. This
Luna is a great concept but they didn’t know execute it as well as possible.
Volumetrics were my biggest complaint but I had a pretty hefty complaint list.
I’d recommend this company
We can build anything with any type of regulation required and we know a thing or 2 about extraction already.
Is this your company? Ayee your ees is PLC. Y’all are using analog or pneumatic?
Was the Luna control board operated? Or manual?
Yes this maybe true but needle valves also have different types of tips. Tbh everything should be globe valve or butterfly. Except the withdrawal valve than angular plug type needle
The thing with regulating flow with ball valves it creates a non uniform wear on your valve. That’s why they are recommended for only shut off/on
It’s not the valves I feel is the need for compression but the easy alignment with tubing. Tbh sanitary tri clover valves is more ideal from the columns than use compression tubing adapters and unions to create the pathway.
I love needle valves for high pressure applications. We actually built a system with sub 10 microsecond response to throttle expansion from 20ksi to a couple hundred PSI which functions as both a forward pressure and back pressure regulator and solved a bunch of icing issues with CO2 applications.
BUT.
They’re a fucker to clean and the manual ones are very easy to overtighten and destroy the seats on. I’ve run a lot of the butech replaceable seat ones and they’re pretty badass but all it takes is one jackass to crank them down and it’ll fuck the seat.
I hate butterfly valves for anything under 12".
Globe valves are great but $$$
Ball valves are the bees knees as long as you don’t need to deal with large temp swings. The throttling is a valid point too although the lifetime of a ball valve used for throttling is still usually longer than the normal service life of a needle valve
Open to input, I can get good prices on non peek, reg temp, superlok 210 valves, how much will I regret it? Possible to buy replacement peek seats? or have them 3d printed?
I’d recommend just grabbing the peek seats so you can trust what you’ve got. I’ve got too many useless ball valves sitting around from trying to go cheap.
With that being said I also used the purple handle bvv valves for a long time with no issues before I replaced them and I’d imagine the regular superloks are better than those.
What kind of price difference are you looking at? I just grabbed a bunch of 3/8 compression superloks with peek seats for less than $50 a piece. I know you’re in Canada though so that might be harder for you.
Can get 3/4" no peek for $32.50 usd
or
1/2" with peek for $63.4 usd
They also have other sizes but havnt gotten their prices yet, but figure basically half for the next size up.
Ive got a hodge podge of dif cheap valves too, some are great, some are undocumented uncontrollable three way valves.
I need around 25 to do a full replacement, I’d save around a thousand dollars in beaver bucks going for the cheaper larger orifice superloks.
Two of P/N CW-8-8P from Titan fitting (compatible with swagelok) and one of these comes out to like $45 if you have a competent welder:
Edit: even cheaper if you want 1/2" tri clamp (and you can always mix and match): https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Tri-Clover-Ferrule-Medium.html
@corleevalve ftw