Just wondering if the hive mind has found something I wasn’t aware of dude. Yeah, I can use google. Sorry If I offended you.
I’ve had really good luck with the Superlok 210 and 220 series valves for cold hydrocarbons. I usually use them in a compression variant, but they’re available in NPT. I get them from Corlee Valve & Fitting. The 3/8" compression are around $50 a valve. If I remember right, the proper Swagelok 43GS6 equivalent is about $85/ea. They stock them in NPT too and Corlee’s price on swagelok is often better than ordering from swagelok directly.
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Been talking with Ryan at corlee and that’s the route I was prob going with, appreciate the input 
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ryan is good folk, and superlok has always served me well. I think Ryan also has access to some surplus inventories with some surplus swagelok valves
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Check out Hy-lok. They’re a Candian base company. After reading some engineers forums it’s swagelok competition and a bit cheaper. I have a LPG extraction custom buildout for a client in Toronto. We’re going to be using them.
Also depending on your temperature range you may need cryo rated valves. Most lok companies are rated up to -40
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I remembered seeing this a while back, i may givea few a try
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Have a bunch of hamlets and they get loose and leak so quickly! Some I have to tighten the nut every day or they are dripping out liquid. Bought new a few weeks ago $80 each for 3/8. Definitely looking for that good mid-range as well. The feel of turning a swagelok is like soft butter compared to any others, but that price for a whole system is absurd.
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Shit I bought a big batch of them and haven’t tried them yet
Noticing worse leakage when running very cold solvent, but in the past rarely had blue valves loosen up, let alone every valve, every day. Is there something I don’t know about the red hamlets to keep them tight??
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Are you just hand tightening? I run all hamlets and that doesnt sound right
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I get swagelok 3/8” directly from them for like $150 a pop. Never had the slightest issue with the valves.
The quick connects suck tho. Not worth the extra $100 for those
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Hamlets leak on the daily. Even the brand new ones
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Wrench tighten the nuts. Couple opens and closes and the nuts loosen. Don’t understand it. Literally have liquid solvent dripping out of them every few runs unless I keep cranking them down till they are tight. Had a nut nearly fall off one midrun, the handle was just wiggling loose when I went to turn it. Again, any advice on something I’m overlooking would be wonderful! Maybe we just got a bad batch of them
What about Dernord? They’re not too bad.
swagelok
i made a thread on this a while ago, some more good info in there too
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Agreed. The compression ones on my system only use a ptfe washer with a nut to seal the valve seat. It sucks and if I knew that before I bought 2k worth I wouldn’t have… I shoulda bought one to sample first… I don’t get many leaks cus I check them before every run but if they need to be adjusted hot or cold they will warp and are fucked…
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I absolutely hate block style ball valves. My prior industries used solid body designs with integrated seating surfaces and they leaked so much less.
Depending on your budget: One-Piece Instrumentation Ball Valves, 40G and 40 Series | Ball and Quarter-Turn Plug Valves | Valves | All Products | Swagelok
Edit: Not really needed except maybe for the super critical CO2 guys, but if you want to step into the big leagues: http://www.autoclave.com/aefc_pdfs/vftcc_english.pdf
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Are you tightening down a nut that holds a handle in place? Or are you removing a nut, removing a washer, removing the handle, cleaning any residual oils from the packing nut, and then tightening the nut that retains that seal?
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hamlets leak even when brand new
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