So are you. When you tell someone they are doing something the wrong way, it is a reasonable response to ask why has it worked for so long?
That’s what they are using up here, zerotol when there’s plants and sanidate when they reset.
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I went thru a tour of my buddies spot yesterday. Massive isnt even the word to describe it. Dude has 8 rooms, each with 40x de 1k hoods in each.
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Well that sucks. I thought it was my new lights making the frost. It reminds me of the mabelline makeup ads
fruity pebbles, maybe she’s born with it. Or maybe it’s regalia
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You sure that’s pm?
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Gh flora is a tool. A tool is as good as the operator. No nutrient causes pm. The ratio in which you choose to use gh flora is making your plants susceptible to pm.
In all 100k+ Sq. Ft. I do nutrition consults for there is no pm because the plants are strong enough to defend themselves. Nothing is added to the reservoirs other than salts and either organic additives or chlorine depending on the operator. What theydo get that stops pm and most other pests dead in their tracks is constant weekly sap analysis that let’s the operator and know what’s going on with the crop and allows us to keep the crop healthy enough that it can defend itself.
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Tour gonna make me go out and score a brix meter just for the heck of it.
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If you are asking me about my stuff, idk honestly. It is a white mold, but seems more fibrous than pm. You can see the little hairs in it:
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I have the same perspective. Every grow is different. Every lab is different. People have different perspectives. Keeping an open atmosphere will encourage people to speak there mind. The industry is young. The tradition just started coming out from the shadows a decade ago. We still have a lot to learn.
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As my mentor says “you don’t feed the plant. You feed the soil and the soil will feed the plant.”
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Here is my cleaning protocol:
- Tear down everything
- Run Green Clean acid through the systems- 2 to 4 hours
- Run sanidate through the systems - 8 hours
- Foam the room with sanidate + Biofoamer
- Let foam air dry
- Mop
- flush reservoirs plenty of times
- Bake Room
- plant kush
Using sanidate in a foamer with biofoamer is so amazing. I basically blast the whole room top to bottom with it and let it air dry.
I grow in aeropoincs so cleanliness is key, if anybody has any other questions about tear downs and stuff lmk
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Looks like one of these is on my next purchase list. Sap pH – Soilmentor
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In ppm assummng 10ml per gallon on your 1:1 veg I calculate 132N, 58P, 110K, 132Ca. On the 1:2 in flower, assuming, 10ml micro, 20ml bloom per gallon I calculate 132N, 115P, 197K, 132Ca.
In veg P is oversupplied, K is undersupplied and increasing the Ca wouldn’t hurt. In bloom P is oversupplied, and I would probably run higher Ca depending on the exact environmental conditions. All of these opinions are based on the relative concentration of each of the elements mentioned to the other elements in solution.
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Thanks for the help. You are saying the oversupply changes the internal ph of the plant? So the plant uptakes too much of those nutrients? I did notice nutrient demand going up in changing to led lights.
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I havent adjusted nutes with led. I do notice they drink far less and still yield.
An oversupply of any anion or combination of anions ( phosphorous, nitrogen, or sulfur) in relation to cations will make sap ph low.
An oversupply of any cation or combination of cations (potassium, calcium, or magnesium) in relation to anions will make sap ph high.
I’m not going to comment much on ideal ratios on a public forum because that’s what I do for a living and they also vary more than you would expect based on the environmental conditions in different facilities. I could literally bottle some of my a&b I currently run in my greenhouse and send it to an indoor grower and they would see wildly different results.
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That is the exact ph meter I carry around with me all day. It can measure any liquid with a very small sample size and in my experience is more reliable than any of the hydro store offerings. The ec one is also pretty nice.
I own every meter in the laqua line. I would not recommend the ones that read individual nutrients. They are expensive and to get repeatable results they literally need to be recalibrated every sample.
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So with checking the leaves ph level would you be able to see a deficiency before you actually can see discoloration on the leaves?
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Yes, but only knowing the ph level doesn’t tell you exactly how to fix it. It just narrows it down to either a cation or anion problem. It can get significantly more complex than just changing the ratios of macros. For instance boron has a significant impact on calcium levels. The only way to have the full story is sap and or tissue analysis.
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That’s pm my brother
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