I told you where mine came from- drastic temp swings at the same time pm is prevalent in my area on lawns.
Regalia has been effective for me so far if applied regularly. Can you describe how that fits into the cation/ion theory as a biofungicide? And does it make a difference if you are growing in hydro as far as controlling that balance? Thanks.
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Regalia is a 5% ETOH extract of Giant knotweed. Regalia is an organic input source, so just double check that it doesn’t create biofilm. The extract induces phytoalexins and increases phenolic substances in the plant, so the plant fights the infection.
One word of caution- it throws the plant into SAR like jasmonic acid or chitosan. Awesome for frost at the expense of yield.
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Regalia up regulates bio defense pathways. From what I’ve seen in practice from applying straight jasmonates and straight salicylic acid to plants, regalia appears to elicit a response similar to jasmonates. As @AgTonik said, that is bad for yield, good for trichomes.
Cation/anion ratio is not a theory. It’s how you set the ph of anything, may that be your reservoir or plant sap. Cations are positvely charged and increase ph, anions are negatively charged and decrease ph. When everything is balanced in the plant, the plant the sap will be very close to 6.4ph. Fungi do not grow well in a ph that high.
Grow medium has a tremendous impact on availability of cations. Medium is measured by cec or cation exchange capacity. The higher the cec, the more likely the medium is to hold cations making them less available to the plant. Rockwool has a very low cec, essentially 0 it is basically inert and cations do not bind to it. Coco has a higher cec usually around 40, some cations bind to it, in the case of coco it also seems selective as to which cations, but that’s a whole different discusion. Soil can be all over the place, but can be easily amended to get to a favorable cec. Typically we would target around 100 cec,o but a succesuful fertigation regimen can be made for any cec. This is why soil, coco and hydro feeding is different.
Environment is also a big factor in this. How the environment is manipulated changes transpiration rate. Nitrate, calcium, sulfur and magnesium are mass flow nutrients meaning they are only absorbed when the plant is transpiring and their rate of abortion is directly proportional to the concentration of each in the root zone. The other macro nutrients are absorbed via diffusion, basically osmotic pressure.
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I am very impressed with the density of the knowledge you just dropped here. Take a K+, please (oh wait, that was Overgrow back in the day, lol).
Anyways, this isn’t a pitch for AGT-50, but I feel like you just wrote the whole outline for a blog article for me. Thanks, bud!
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Thank you. That’s honestly like an intro speech for plant nutrition 101. Lol. But with a little bit of Google and a ph meter it’s enough info to make positive changes in a lot of gardens.
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Don’t say that on ICMag or THCFarmer!
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I grow in aeroflo machines. The only media is a 3 inch net pot of hydroton. I dont see any difference in the pm at varying reservoir ph levels. You are saying to test the ph of the plant sap? What would I do with that information?
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I don’t frequent any of the grow forums any more. I find they have a high concentration of people like @thumper that would rather argue about something irrelevant than learn their craft and fix their problems correctly.
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I love biosafe. I literally have a biosafe arsenal.
Their cleaning agents are also a life saver. Green clean acid followed by sanidate is the best thing ever. Just don’t breathe that air lol
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So, that’s basically an nft setup. You have an active pm infection, therefore you have low sap ph, that’s just how it works. To increase sap ph you need to increase absorption of at least one cation.
Reservoir or feed ph has literally nothing to do with sap ph. I have a setup where I feed at 4.0 ph and have runoff at 6.3 ph because the fertigation is high in citric acid and polyphosphates to keep drippers clean. That sap was 6.5ph yesterday.
What the plants actually absorb is what dictates the sap ph.
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I try to learn something new every day and never claim to know everything about growing. The folks at Future engage me on a different level in the garden, including yourself. I appreciate you!
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You said you could eliminate any pm infection with mere nutrition. I am using basic general hydroponics flora series nutes. What is it that they lack, you think? What do you feed a plant to make pm go away?
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My buddy swears by fogging his rooms during shutdowns with sanidate. anyone have any thoughts on it?
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It’s great. Physan is also better than bleach. Just make sure you don’t breathe it.
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I would need to know what exactly you are feeding now.everything including the ph adjustment.
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Gh bloom and micro. Equal parts veg, 2 to 1 in flower. Capful of cal magic. Ro water to start, takes a little bit of gh ph up to raise to 5.6 to 5.8 in flower. Sometimes i let the veg ph drift up to 6. Minor additions would be bigfoot mycos, a pinch of pondzyme, and the occasional mosquito dunk. The ec reading on my handheld blue lab meter is about 700 to 900 in veg and 900 to 1200 in flower.
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I’m not at my desk right now, but can tell you that you are most likely oversupplying phosphorous and undersupplying potassium just because I know in veg you are supplying npk at 5-5-5 and in bloom you are 5-10-9. I work in ppm and will plug some stuff in the computer later today. At the very least, if you want to use the flora series, I would need access to grow to get you closer to something that makes sense nutritionally.
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It has made sense for a very long time for a lot of people. I am skeptical that the most widely used nutrients cause pm. If you have a reservoir additive that solves pm, you should market it. Everyone would want it.
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You are missing the point…
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