Please post a picture I’m not finding it
If you guys are not worried about CAT lll testing check this company out for any miticide or PM/mold remedies. These are commercial grade remedies that work as advertised. Also the #1 place people overlook it their AC coil and ducts. This is where the spores stay until your next cycle and your AC is very effective spreading them.
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I spray lysol on the coils during down time.between flips (ac and 2x deheuy).
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Can he ozone the room between grows? I actually keep really low humidity after 1-1.5 months in flowering. Near harvest week it’s 35-40. Notice better trichome production and prevention of pm.
Never past 60 humidity in flowering room for more than few hours.
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I dont think I’ve ever ran my ozone gen in his room. He does use one of my uvc light filter boxes.
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delete
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I do it in all my grow tents, have a two plate one and run that for 8 hours. Leave it alone for 2 days. Than ventilation before going in.
I made a mistake a few years back and got some clones form a Grand Rapids caregiver. I’ve saved his # and make sure never to deal with that POs.
Gave me some of the toughest PM I’ve ever seen. Had to sanitize the whole house with ozone and still couldn’t kill it 100%. Pretty much had to build a new barn.
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Agree it will destroy stuff that can be via oxide from the O3.
I take out my fans and leave the aluminum tubing. Fans are hand cleaned.
But so far I noticed the 8 hour ozone hasn’t reduced my items life span by much. Close to the natural wear and tear. Try my best to take care of everything like it’s my love child.
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O3 cant be as bad for electronics as a sulfur burn.
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When you say O3 you just mean an ozone generator right. Like on of those eden pure models?
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Nice I bought mine new before realizing the eBay is so much better especially with square trade.
I have mine rated for 5000 sq ft and run it in my 20x10 or 5x8 after every grow cycle or when I move plants every 6-12 months from my veg tent move them to 5x5 to clean that up.
After that PM fight I’d rather spend the effort frequently.
Like I mentioned in a my older post I have family and patients with severe allergies. Majority of mainstream bud/company has compromised product for them. So have to run my grow sterile as possible.
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I call buying anything on ebay a “challenge”. Mine was new. If you really want to be further sterile, build a uvc light filter box. Uvc kills all kinds of things.
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I do have that for intake and hepa for intake and circulation inside the tents as well. This way if mold or bacteria is in the air the inside circulation hepa cleans that up. The intake hepa and UV light sterilize the air.
I’m using a “self made” 4x4 tent that acts as my go between my flowering tent. I have a air oasis 3000 sq ft UV light that sanitizes all incoming air and gets hepa filtered before going to my flowering rooms.
Every intake hole is sealed shut but honestly I can see why people don’t do this much work. If my loved ones weren’t using it I’d probably slack off.
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A healthy plant is definitely more resistant to pests and disease. That means your calcium and micronutrient content is in check. Adding even just a few ppm of silica will help resist infection as well.
That said, they still may become infected. Green Cure adjusts surface pH. I’m not sure the company is in business anymore, but it is just potassium bicarbonate, used in the winemaking industry.
Potassium salts of fatty acids (insecticidal soap) can help dry out surface mold.
Phosphite (Organicare) works internally, but can spike potassium nutrient levels. Anecdotally, it caused smaller flowers for us when used as a preventative.
And if you limp through to the finish and still have mold problems, you can always do a peroxide or Flying Skull Nuke Em dip followed by room temperature water (cold can knock off trichs). I definitely don’t endorse it, but I’ve seen some gnarly flowers pass testing doing it.
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any experience with zerotol? It’s just peroxide + acetic acid + peracetic acid
I’ve been using alkaline water and h2o2 without much luck for a while, I just added a sulfur foliar for early veg. Might start using the OG biowar foliar, but I’m a bit nervous about introducing new microbes
I will absolutely endorse everything that Biosafe systems puts out. The only thing is that it has to be in full contact to work. You have to pretty much drench every surface and then maintain good air flow.
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we use biosafe products weekly for IPM programs, ZT being the big winner. sanidate for cleaning hard surfaces for sure. everything in the line is great and has limited ill effects on plants.
we have passed 100% of our state mandated tests on the biosafe program.
Check the biosafe page out on instagram they have ton of info and sales reps that know their products better than anyone.
mold and mildew spores are everywhere, constant vigilance is the best recommendation i would have to start. The other main point is that strong genetics and strong plants will fend for themselves against most pests. We tend to see more problems with unstable genetics within the same room and IPM schedule.
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I’ve seen greenhouses sprayed with zerotol every two days covered in PM, that shit doesn’t work and seems to irritate existing problems. I like wettable sulfurs like Silver Bullet, but nothing is going to beat controlling your environment. Mold spores like to germinate in the low to mid 60 degree range, never let your rooms get that cold. It isn’t about your RH spiking, your rooms are always covered in PM spores. The trick is to never let them germinate.
Run heaters at night, and keep your rooms at 73F at the lowest.
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@CuriousChemist22 posted a great suggestion about keeping your daytime and nighttime temps closer together.
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