I have a client who had PM issues. I havent been able to fully remediate it… minus an eagle 20 spray day of flip. I’ve already tried all the “shampoos and what not” that doesnt work.
Regalia, green cure, oils, sulfur burns.
I dress is 100% ppe when ever over there. And my house calls are 125.00 each for him. My ppe costs 75.00 that I toss out after leaving his garden.
why not just show up in a thong then shower in the driveway when youre done
Banana hammock
Get it right
Lol
Have they gotten rid of all plants, cleaned room and started fresh?
What are nighttime temps and humidity vs day temp and humidity?
Yeah, pm likes it cold and wet. Adding lights helps too, as does trimming off the bottom leaves where it grows the most and the interior branches that dont get as much light.
I have sprayed a citric acid product for aphids, and I think it reduces pm by changing the ph of the leaf surface.
This is the easiest, cheapest, safest, systemic product ive found on the commercial market to fight PM etc.
They have a FAQ section that includes cannabis plants
https://www.yourplantdoctor.com/organocide-plant-doctor-systemic-fungicide-faqs/
I’ve used that product before and it seemed to work well mitigating the pervasive PM problems that plague the PNW. People say it’s safe to spray on the flower even post-harvest, but I’m not too keen on spraying what will be consumed (combusted or extracted), even if it is safe.
I’ve done pretty much everything I could. Sulfur burns, eagle 20 applications, regalia, neem,other essential oils, this, that, some other stuff.
He refuses the #1 rule, only enter grow room with fresh clean clothes. He gardens outside, then gardens his mj plants.
So since he keeps cross containimates daily.
Temps day and night are 10*f or less difference.
Rh is 50-60% at all times.
Even when dealing of the nastiest critters being brought in daily, I have seen 3 day sprays work when done through week 4 of flower. It’s always a bit of a struggle, but poor practice can be mitigated and managed.
His pops up during the last 3 weeks of flower. When he drops temps and RH.
He follows my sop, but I don’t have PM, nor spray anything at all in my entire garden.
He runs other ppls strains, not mine.
Hey man, so let me start off by saying I disagree with a lot of the tech / solutions that have been posted.
So let me at least offer my opinion and break down my logic.
When it comes to Mold you have to have the following things all at the same time, darkness, warmth, lack of air flow, and excess moisture all at the same time.
So it’s really easy to cure the remedy and then you can usually control the mold that is alive or present with temp and water control. Especially because you are at the end of your crop you can use less water to your advantage to control the mold.
Here is what I would do,
Go through and de leaf as much as you physically can possible. Cut off alll the fan leaves you can and Just chop lowers and larf material and bag it and freeze it for something else later. You want to really open up your plants and get a ton of airflow in there so that no moisture can be held in and add to your PM issue.
While you are de leading cut off any nugs that are just straight covered because all they are going to do is dust spores all over the rest of the plant and ruin the rest of it, usually you can go through and if you see just a few bad nugs gently cut them off and bag them to be trashed somewhere else entirely.
Okay so now I would go through and like hardcore inspect your room for excess moisture, check your AC, check your drain trays, if you have a res inside of the room if you can move it out that would be better, you just don’t want stagnant water anywhere.
Okay so now, I would personally cut down water as much as I could the last 1-2 weeks now and let pots retain less moisture, but still make sure you’re watering them don’t get me wrong.
Lastly I would get some good airflow in there with maybe another fan or something.
And that, is how I personally would handle the issue.
Mold and bugs are both environment issues, and can be fixed by addressing the environment instead of putting a band aid on the wounds.
What exactly do you mean by three day sprays please
Whatever it is that is sprayed for bugs or otherwise is sprayed every 3 days, no matter what, until week 4 of flower. Out of the nursery through week 4, spray every 3 days and it can mitigate a vast array of problems. I’ve seen it work wonders. I’m with @Demontrich in that my preference is no-spray, but living in the pacific northwest has made that tough.
Every 3rd day is a spider mites reproductive cycle. Reason why we say every 3rd day swap foliar sprays so the SM dont build an immunity to said foliar sprays.
Use uv light instead! Just make sure to cover up your skin, uv light on them during flowering has done wonders for me.
ive been able to eliminate all PM from friends grows by using some of these methods. the most important thing we did was heat and dehumidify the rooms at night. Same thing with GH’s we add pellet stoves and keep the nighttime temps within 1-2 degrees of daytime. this killed off PM over weeks time and works good for early flowering. for late flowering PM it will help curb and stop new PM from growing but youll have to peroxide wash your bud after. Ive used 60 gallon trash cans with warm water / baquacil for dunks then a yard blower to quick dry the colas before hanging.
There are 4 types of uv. UVA, uvb, uvc and far uvc. I make custom uvc (type that kills) boxes for growers. Were far past uvc.
If you dont take extreme caution using uvc, you can and will injure yourself, others, and anything living and exposed.
I am well versed in uv.
Uva/b is for growing. Uvc for sanitizing.
Try using a product called pure harvest, has worked well for us. We try to maintain an organic living soil garden indoor. PM is difficult. You can spray compass (trifloxistrobin) in veg and week 1 of flower then use pure harvest as a foliar and they say you can use it all the up to few days before flower. If you cant find it. Let me know and I can post a picture