Double diaphragm is probably your best bet, unless you have a specific reason for going centrifugal. Centrifugal pumps don’t work well at cold temps, and using one will require a C1D2 motor. If you want to control the speed electronically that adds another layer of complexity, as the VFD has to be either C1D2 (expensive), or located outside of the hazardous location (not as convenient). We’ve built all kinds of electric and air setups. I’ve found electric pumps to be best if you have a big budget, and air diaphragm pumps to be the simplest and least expensive.
The SimpleSolvent 35 GPM pump we offer is cheaper than the linked Grainger, and is outfitted to be plug and play with built in air valves, regulators, quick-disconnect, and tri clamp inlet/outlet. Saves you a trip to Home Depot, anyway.
Here’s a fully-integrated skid we built with the SimpleSolvent 35. Pump → Pulse Smoother → Bag Housing → Lenticular Housing → Triple Cartridge Housing. All on a forkliftable wheeled skid.
No, we don’t use Yamada. We use stainless steel Versa-Matic pump bodies. The body castings are thicker than Yamada, and the air valves are more efficient, and more reliable. By “efficient” I mean given the same amount of available compressed air and a similar-sized pump, the Versa-Matic will produce more GPM of liquid flow than the Yamada.
BTW, you are likely leaving some filter module lifespan on the table. That could also help bring down your weekly filtration costs.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific filters, but most filters are not considered clogged and ready for change-out until you reach 35 psi of differential pressure. Of course, I would also exercise caution if you are pushing product with air instead of a pump. Pressurized air will escape from a failed vessel or hose much more rapidly and with much more energy than pressurized liquid will.
You are correct, the filters are nowhere near fully clogged when we change them. We change them early to keep the filtering flow rate high, and also minimize retained fluid in the bag. If we were filtering water, no big deal to dump a bunch of water out of a clogged filter bag, but what we’re filtering is a different story. Given the super low cost of the bags, it’s not it a big deal at all.
Interesting. Good point WRT keeping the amount of retained fluid low. Some people pump at high pressure initially to keep flow rates high, then close off a valve at the inlet and outlet of the housing and use compressed air or gas to push any remaining liquid out of the drain once the filters have been clogged—or as clogged as they want them to be—to deal with that. Might allow for best of both worlds and save you downtime between changing out filters.
We custom make the skids, so it kind of depends on what you want on it. If you want a three-stage skid with built-in pump and all the plumbing done for you in stainless tube, it ends up being about $8-9k or so. If you don’t need it all skid-mounted on casters you can save a few bucks just by getting the individual housings and plumbing it together yourself: All Categories - Filtration - TCW Equipment
Lots of great information here. Thanks guys. We have just purchased a CUP30 and Deltas new DC40 chilling tank. It does not appear that the chilling tank is reaching -40 or under since our tincture turns green instantly once contacted by the 200 proof ethanol. So, we have been looking at different particulate filters and carbon scrubs for our material. Just order an admiral from AMP to help remove the crap and potentially put carbon in the first bag. Considering a Heyes filtration after. Looking for opinions.
How have you measured the temperature of the chilled alcohol prior to moving it into the CUP? How long are your lines leading into the CUP and of what material are they? Are you pre-chilling fluid in the jacket or just pulling vacuum? How was your biomass milled? How fine was it milled? Soak time/agitation time? There’s a lot of factors that play into the color. Also, greens can vary wildly. May not be as bad as you think, but that completely depends on what your end goal is.
-40 isn’t that cold when trying to get a golden oleoresin right out of the gate without any magic dirt or membranes to help. The second it leaves the tank it is heating up. You’re probably extracting closer to -20 by the time it is all said and done. Still probably not bad for most applications even without color remediation. If you want no chlorophyll, you need to be below -67C or colder (voiding the warranty on your pretty new CUP).
unfortunately, Delta doesnt provide their machines with temp probes so we have to assume its -40. Lines are all standard (what was provided) like 4-5ft, started with pulling vac because we were told it would be fine, but setting up a chilling fluid today, biomass has been tested at all sizes, we even tried different agitation/run times down to zero agitation with almost no variance, but it sounds like what should have been discussed was that their machine did not perform to what was promised and now we have to purchase and add new filters. Basically, negating the reason for purchasing the chilling unit. We could have bought or made any sort of tank and used liquid nitrogen to achieve the same or better product for a fraction of the price. CUP seems like a nice unit though.
An infrared thermometer can be used to measure the process fluid’s temperature at any stage in the operation, and I highly suggest regularly monitoring those temps to ensure consistency of practice and to ensure all your equipment is working optimally.
Just remember that all steel (and welds) are not created equal, and a vast majority of the tanks available are not rated or well suited to maintain LN2 temperatures. Sure, things may work great for a while, until a weld cracks and you’re left with the volume of the container spilled out into the lab. I’ve used expensive chillers, LN2, and dry ice to do cold ethanol extractions. They all have their pluses and minuses. Chillers have high CAPX while the other two have high OPX; which is better in your lab for the long haul is up to you and how the math works out.
If you’re located in Oregon, I’d be happy to come out and help you dial it in. Not like I’m doing much of anything else right now. Haha.
This is an excellent point: most 300 series vessels do not have any post-weld heat treat required by ASME code and especially if they are 316L welded with 308L filler they will be prone to cracking. Also note the MDMT on the vessel nameplate for any pressurized service
Ok. I I might still go with a .2. The filter I was looking at had a 3gmp flow per 10" of filter. I might just go with a 20" just to double flow.
But right now were just running a AC infused pall filter. I’m guessing it let’s off a bit of dust so it might not really matter. These pals are expensive POS.
My plan is a filter sock housing with a solid sided basket insert. Then just stuff a 1um filter over the bottom of the basket to cover the mesh. Then I can fill the void with some AC granules.
After that I was going through a final cartridge to catch any micro dust.
Were going to be doing conversions, and I am worried about impurities causing side reactions.
I know AC is used in a few reflux SOPs.
