That pump is intense
@all I read about Heating boiler antifreeze and how it can help maintain temperatures, would you recommend circulating that thru the jacketed base with a mag drive pump?
Took the advice on the hose and raising the temp it helped a fuck ton. I’m gonna grab insoluation before my next run. Thank you all.
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I got something similar for my rotovap 
. I was fucking sick of submersible and I figure stainless steel impeller would be the best way to go. I also got some 1" to ½" hex reducers and some ½ npt to ½" hose barb adapters, a water pressure reducing valve and a ½" street tee.
The pressure reducer is just in case there’s too much pressure, the street tee is because I wanna suck on the condenser at the same time as sucking on the water while hopefully causing more so a recirculation effect than anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Shallow-Lanchez-Stainless-Transfer-Irrigation/dp/B07WRFPD56
The one I got
iv got the same set up as this an I havnt had time to try it out as I also got cupple questions befor doing the run I’m running passive an was under the assumption that you had to have base chilled for solvent to flow in that direction I also just got nitro post an havnt been able to test that out ether an was told to just nitro push it I guess what I’m asking is how this is achieved using the sousvide method an not chilling collection during the run? I know you have under vac but I find I run out a vac befor everything’s in there an will it still pull it in with just the vac without it being chilled or will it have to be nitro pushed an if I do need to nitro push do I need to vent on collection while pushing from solvent tank?
If the collection is not colder, then when the solvent hits it it creates pressure from evaporation,…and if it creates pressure and the column loses pressure as the gas goes in, it will stall…
And you absolutely need a gauge on the nitrogen pump, a regulator to see how many psi you’re putting in…
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I use a square container with dry ice for the solvent injection/extraction phase. Then, after for the jackets before I pump warm water in for recovery.
What I’ve had to do though is vacuum down the jackets after taking it off the dry ice because they just become frosted over and not really usable for warm water right away, I realized vacuuming them down after helps remove some of the build up of miniscule frost.
A good way to get the water flowing after the dry ice has been to use my Diaphragm vacuum pump to start the flow of the water through the jackets and once the water is able to flow through, I shut the Diaphragm vacuum pump off and disconnect the Diaphragm vacuum pump. Then, I turn on the water pump, pumping in warm water to the jackets for the recovery phase.
to reiterate, I vacuum down the outer jackets after the dry ice phase, not the entire collection where the solvent is. That would be an explosive situation.
yes I know all that why I dont fully understand yet how to do a run set up this way as I dont have a way to chill it now that its hooked it to hoses to run hot water through the collection
I’m sure you could have manifold built to switch from cooling to heating…the main thing would be making sure all the water is out or chiller fluid
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what about just lifting pump out of hot water bucket putting it in a bucket with ice in a beg in another 5 gal bucket an run the cold water with some antifreeze in it through would that be cold enough to keep pressure down think that would work?
dry ice in a paint strainer beg in the water with antifreeze
You would need a bleed line to a centrifugal pump to empty it.
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If ur using n tane that might help but ur gonna be pulling all kinds unwanteds running at 32f or anything close
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I have all my jackets with ball valves and quick disconnects and all my hot water recovery line hoses have quick connects.
I have my jacket disconnected from my hot water while it’s on dry ice so my hot water lines don’t freeze over.
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Word that’s a little better than my chiller! But same principle I got when someone told me that @Dred_pirate made a ghetto chiller so I made one!
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Thats prbly enough for a 6x6?
I was using 12 x 24 for collection with basically same kinda pump into a insulated trash can and fish tank heaters.
It kept it close to 75 to 90degree depending how cold the weather was. It was cheap but worked. Used a temp gun to check water temp in the insulated trash can?
Can in a can and spray foamed to keep losses of heat or cold down. I used to chill a tank in here with coil baxk in the day.
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I always preferred something more food grade. Cheap rot gut vodca worked good with dry ice and non flammable. I think it only got to -20 tho cause of alch proof. Mayb a lil colder when it chilled to slurry
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNEYyXA
To clear the jacket after using flammable stuff, prior to pumping warm water for recovery?
That’s a stainless one.
Don’t know if this has been discussed. Probably has. Can one just make an extended coolant loop on the return of the chiller to preheat your recovery? We used “Free-Heaters” in the dairy industry and many other processes to extend our chilling capacity and pre-heat washdown water.
Take the heat from your chiller and make hot water essentially.
If I’m lame and out of touch just tell me and I’ll get back under my rock.
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