OTSS When To Cap, Request for Pictures

I have a scenario… when it comes to steps of cryo (2days -70c or lower), then evaporation to 1/3 of jar then cap (all at room temp, lets say 75f)

  1. Pour extract from collection pot to pint wide mouth mason jar (473ml whole jar), fills to about 250ml then loosely place lid and band on jar, and set in crushed dryice filled yeti chest for 2 day.

Now here is where it can go in a couple direction’s. 7-8 out of 10 times, there will be thca bloom, and other times there will just be a layer of (what looks like sand like) crash all at the bottom of the jar.

I can say when there is a full bloom the crystalized end results are way better then the sand like layered bottom bloom.

After reading other testimonies on here and OTSS tek forum, ive come to a mixed conclusion…
BTW the material is not a factor, like others state it can be done with sugar trim and larf. This was done with mix of trim/larf nugs

  1. Solution was at proper solvent evaporated to extract ratio parameters. (Full bloom), proper saturation levels for bloom occurring.

  2. There was more solvent then neccessary for a proper thca full bloom, thus forced the crash to bottom of jar and (layered like sand bloom)…
    Improper solution level for bloom to occur…
    -With this explanation (2.) Would the solution need more of the solvent to evaporate and lowering solution level in mason jar then putting back into cryo?

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Well said

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Am i capping too early? Im trying to cap at the 1/3 mark but everytime i do i get that scary buldge in the lid and it freaks me out some reassurance that this is supposed to happen will make me feel better or cap at a higher saturation level. Also thanks for all the awesome answers from people who have experience reading this forum has been a ton of help i made an account today to be more apart of the community

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yes if your lid buckles like that, definitely too much pressure which is caused by too much solvent left over. Not sure if it helps, or is even the right way to go about it, but once I cap, I leave the lid maybe half tightened. It’s tight enough to build some pressure but also loose enough to where it will let some pressure escape if it builds too high before buckling and bending the lid. Once I notice it stops hissing, I tighten the full amount and it seals perfectly and holds pressure for the entire time.

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Yeah u def have to much solvent…the 1/3rd only works if u have 3:1 solvent to oil ratio
Which is hard to do in my opinion… slowly vent, might change the lid and if way to much u may need fifteen min before capping…
The heat will greatly build your pressure right back up.

I been extremely wrong about consistency at cap for safe capping… It’s more oil like when capped, but still really thin… If you haven’t blown her off she will be fine, but to be safe I wouldn’t let get like that

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Thank you so much for your reply now that i know exactly when to cap, seeing what too much looks like for my own eyes my next step is to vac it put in carts and try again with some fresher material the age of this stuff is completely unknown and wont diamond up for anything when ive gotten previous batches to diamond up. Im also wondering if i didnt get too hot as i put the heat on 80 which made the jars get a bit warmer than 80 and melted the seeds i had put in there. Without growing my own to reduce the varieables in freshness level this seems to be some trial and error

if your seeds melt, that too is an indication of too much solvent. My first run was a success with absolutely no heat at all, just sitting at room temp

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I’d have to agree w @clouds 80f didn’t melt it, u had to much solvent when you added it…

Also have u tried just leaving it to see if crashes, sometimes can take up to 2wks

And no it doesn’t take any heat… Heat makes faster, assuming the material isn’t so old it’s natural decarbed

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yeah heat in my experience only makes it thinner which has given me more numerous smaller crystals. When I do it without any heat, I get fewer stones but they’re at least twice the size. Either way I end up without around the same amount of crystals, it’s the size of them that changes with temps for me. (colder = bigger stones, hotter = smaller stones)

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I’m not sure if I’m close or far away ? Extracted 5 days ago

Oh shit there’s the answer I was looking for :joy::joy:

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Can you recrystilize applesauce?

anything is possible with the right equipment and procedure. It will be more difficult though as it will be tricky to separate the THCA from the terpenes when the THCA is a tiny size. The goal of re-crystallization is to introduce mostly THCA into a new solvent for it to crash out again, the fact that you removed most of the other compounds and you have mostly THCA, it will form bigger cleaner stones.

The ideal way is to grow your crystals, separate them, clean them, reintroduce the cleaned crystals into new solvent, repeat the process until you achieve the desired purity.

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If your asking can your reX applesauce (as long as by that u mean thcA sugar) to Diamonds via otss tek. Then the answer is absolutely yes

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Silly question… Since thca crashes out of the solvent at super low temps… What tempurature is too low for dewaxing? Or is time that big of a factor? Does that mean the solvent running over the flower has to be warm-ish. Whats the perfect temp for solvent (butane)

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So I dewaxed it 3 times by freezing solvent and pouring out after sitting in dry ice for 3 hour intervals and it seems very clean. I left it on the heat with no vac and cap fully tightened for 2 days and came back to this… anybody have any clue what I’m looking at? Obviously some type of thca but it looks like very very small granules… how would I pour this off while keeping the viscosity I have in this? It’s very runny like water

That’s ur seeds, diamonds take time to grow leave it sealed

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Is that reblast oil then cold crash?

Yessir and this is a day and a half after sitting in 85f no vac