@StoneD @Curious_Roberto @tweedledew @Dred_pirate @Tech1145 @anon86230761 @ScoobyDoobie
I am so pleased you’re all taking an interest and following through with experimentation! Honestly, the bentonite/montmorillonite RVM (gray, not so much red) granules from the Georgia mine and calcining facility works pretty well, also. The RVM gray removes a little less yield weight on the first pass, leaves a little more color in the product, and “fills up faster” (stops decoloring after less resin treatment) than does the RVM white opaline, but it is still effective as long as it is pre-dried! Even the red stuff works, just about half as well as the gray. In fact, between these 3 Oil-Dri products (GA red bentonite LVM, GA gray montmorillonite RVM, and Taft, California white opaline RVM), or simple combinations of them and @Shadownaught’s clay products, the decoloring process is completely tunable to achieve a uniform or specifically graded color quality with almost any starting material!
For example, starting with old oxidized trim that has deep💩brown resin:
… If you want bright transparent😁gold, use the dried opaline in 1:4 ratio with the dried gray bentonite (20% white, 80% gray).
… If you like amber🥵orange (or you just think tangerine tangie shatter would be cute), use the dried gray & red bentonite in 1:1 ratio (50% each).
… If you prefer ruby👹red resin, try a bed of T41 1:1 under dried red bentonite.
… If you want water👻white “soda⌛glass” shatter, use a fresh batch of pure dried opaline.
If you have a deep purple👾black batch of biomass with a little extra moisture left in it, you might even be able to create a rare blue🥶, teal😱, or lime👽 colored shatter with the right mix of media!
< 
< 
< 
< 
< 
?
!
Happy Hue Hacking, Homies! 
