Older material darker oil? Why is this happening?


#21

Even freshly dried? That is curious


#22

exactly


#23

You can do the same with a closed loop and a sight glass. With open blasting you can’t utilize a recovery pump nor a mole sieve and that leaves a lot up to chance.


#24

can you control what’s in your solvent? ie distil it first to remove mystery oils?

Do you control the temperature of your solvent?

The exact hydrocarbon mix?
Residence time?
Boil off temp (recovery temp)?

Can you control what you’re doing to the point where you can safely do it indoors, 100lb of solvent at a time?

It’s working for you, fine. be safe.

It is in no way shape or form more “controlled”.


#25

Not to mention the various oils that uninformed people will apply to the machine to keep the stickyness from seizing the thing up. Ive seen veg, coconut, and olive oils’s used by certain individuals.


#26

To be 100% honest I work a min of 40 hrs a week and support a large family. I do this as a hobby. I would purchase a CLS if I could afford one. I always have to initially blast outdoors, and if i use canned butane/hydrocarbon mix i dont have a way to distill off the denature agent/or mystery oil as we have taken to calling it. Usually I use just N-butane, but my normal supplier can’t seem to get for a couple weeks now. The last slab I used some canned hydrocarbon mixture iso butane/N-butane/propane/with maybe a dash of pentane. Lol IDK. It was the cleanest i could find according to the “butane impurities chart” on my one day off. It made better oil than the store sells (If I’m not including distillate or pure crystal) even before it had been winterized. It was nug-run of a super frosty strain…but still. I have noticed the color of the oil greatly changes as the starting material is stored for many months. It gets several shades darker, using the exact same everything. I know shatter can auto-budder if it gets old. Would I be better making into shatter and freezing? Freezing the starting material while it is still flower? If I just use for personal but still want to make the best product with the tools I have. I usually purge my shatter for 72 hrs. Flipping every 12 hrs. Vac @ -29.5 in. Hg. Temp of slab between 91-95 degrees F. I would love to know the best way to store my stash and enjoy it for up to a year, while still enjoying it’s original attributes like potency, terpenes, flavinoids, ect. Any constructive advice on how to step up my quality and or quantity of preservation would be appreciated. I don’t sell it. I just enjoy with my wife. We only vape concentrates and money became an issue so I started experimenting with extractions several years ago. I know alot, but not near enough. I’m saving for distillation glassware. Just hard to justify to my wife why I need these things. Money will always be tight when you are a law abiding construction worker supporting 7 people. Anyway trailing again. I just want to make the strongest concentrates I can with my ever tight budget. Sorry for such a long boring post. Lol


#27

A majority of my oil comes out about the shade of dark honey. Unless I run it as soon as it is bone dry. If I wait 2 months even it will come out, well exactly the color of my little avatar pic. That was extracted with N-butane, but was packaged a couple 2-3 months prior. Some loss of terps and flav. No noticeable loss in potency. I have never had it properly tested, but my wife and friends think it is more potent than what they are getting from the store for 30$ a gram. Some stores I have seen hydrocarbon extracts on special for 13$ a g. It just has a high amount of residual solvent. My lovely state allows 5,000ppm of residual solvent. Yes, butane soup. IDK…that is why I make my own.


#28

For the small amounts I am making it seems to work well. Eventually I hope to make or buy a CLS. $ is tight. It is just a hobby. Constructive criticism is welcome. I do want to make the best quality concentrate possible.


#29

As much as I hate saying this. Switch from canned lighter fluid to tanks of butane. If you are going to open blast, at least use decent solvent. You can get 24~ lbs of xtane for less than $200, it’s not great, but it’s better than power 7x. And it’s much cheaper overall. Get Iso-butane if possible. It’s naturally colder and gives blonder extracts by default and grabs more terps(you’ll like it). I would say process most of your flower straight away and store it from there, not the other way around. They’ll last longer. Myself and many others can direct you on how to build a small cls for yourselve when you get there, if possible. I know the constraints of being limited to budget, that’s one of the reasons I got involved in the industry.


#30

U can afford one, BUILD YOUR OWN! Pressure test yourself! Clean yourself! Buy piece this week, a piece next week… That’s what I had to do!

Not to mention a lil help to better offers available out there by loving members here!

Cha ching…eBay here I come!

Btw 2 companies " claim" they have new style cans… No mystery oil needed bc they produce them…was explained mystery oil sprayed to keep from rusting from can factory to filling plant… At least that’s what I was told! Smells like rubber tires to me…

And yes extractors choice seems so much cleaner to me! The big boy tanks…


#31

I was literally going to put that down, but deleted it because he’s mentioned his financial complications a couple times.

@KidKannabi5 if you get to that point and want to ask questions about how to build one small for your needs. I would be happy to help you out and find what you need to fit your budget. With a small investment you can really be making extracts as good as anyone. It’s just protocol that you follow.


#32

My whole world has changed! So much safer! I never buy fuel anymore! And I feel like I get every last drop!

I forever let the $ scare me till someone helped me same way but even better, awesome deal!

I can’t ever dream running any other way!
I wish I would realized how much$ I would start saving!


#33

Exactly @KidKannabi5 can build one for extremely cheap. A small half to 1lb system can easily be built for a few hundred buck on the cheap. Shiiittt. I have an old mk3 that I built I’d part off for cheap.


#34

Build a 6” x 6” MK III terp.
With a 12” or 18” x 1.5” material column.

Recover passively.
Outdoors.
Leave sources of ignition elsewhere

Glacier tanks + BVV will have all the parts. Read up on how to run it.

You’ll need a vacuum pump. And ideally remotely heated circulating hot water. My first circulator was a 120V hot water heater element mounted in 2” black pipe (steel water pipe). Pumped with a small mag drive pump I pulled out of a dumpster.

The PID controller, enclosure, and 40’ of heater hose & insulation probably came to less that $200. Circulated through an insulated keggle I had lying around.


#35

To those saying a machine trimmer means darker extract, that’s not true at all. I’ve been running dry machine trim, trim that the bud was dried before running through a dry trimmer, for a few months now. I’ve been getting consistently gold/yellow, super stable, terpy slabs with yields ranging from 21% to 26.2%. Those returns are higher than any straight nug runs I’ve ever done. I run a CLS and use ~-40 n-butane.

If you use a wet trimmer however, it will be crap every time. From my experiences, I now tell ever grower I work with to vacuum seal the material and store it in a cool place as soon as its dry. I keep it on a deep freezer for at least two days before running too.


#36

have you compared hand trim to machine trim from the same grow op?

I have.
I disagree.
I’m using -40C ethanol (so not apples to apples)

machine trimming breaks open more cells.
which leads to more cell contents in the extract.
at least with cryo-ethanol


#37

Dry trim machine is totally different than machine trim wet as far as end product.

Like cyclopath said above, wet machine trim does indeed break open the cells in the material.

Etoh, BHO fame crappy dark extracts


#38

Would freeze drying the starting material improve the color? Or just degrade cannabanoids? Why doesn’t freezing the material break open cells like freezing lettuce or other leafy greens?


#39

you can denature proteins, because their 3-dimensional structure is both complex & important for their function.

you can degrade or isomerize cannabinoids, but they don’t have enough complexity to their structure to “denature”.

http://chemistry.elmhurst.edu/vchembook/568denaturation.html

as for freezing cells rupturing them and making them leak, yep, it happens. if you’ve cured first, it’s less likely. If you’re after live resin, then getting it frozen fast, and not thawing, keeps some percentage of the cells from rupturing, and most of those ruptured cell contents out of your extraction. or so the theory goes…


I make terrible distillate....why?
#40

I have, the first few runs were hand trim and did not yield as high or have as nice of a color. I know the yields went up slightly because the trimmer took more Keef off, but it was significantly better to the point that his brother started using the same dry trimmer and achieved better results.