Ok so I searched the site and can’t find any info on this so far. At least w search bar I couldn’t.
So is there a such thing as nitrogen vapor friendly valve? One that will not start leaking bc nitro can be bitch MAKING leaks if you ask me.
I haven’t had to change at all till I started using, just like I was told yeah yeah I need another upgrade. Thanks all!
do your fittings/threads start to leak with the high psi? or are you leaking out around the ball in a valve?
I leaked around the clamp, but I only assist to 30 psi and it seems to flush pretty well
Leaks around the ball itself
do all your valves leak like this? I’m planning a nitrogen upgrade myself in the near future and have quite a few valves I’d need to change if that’s the case.
needle valves work great, try adjusting the packing nut on the valve if its got one. you might find that valves leak at lower operating temps too because of material shrinkage. Most all valve problems can be remedied by that adjustment.
also most valves have a lubricant inside them, source ones with no lube so you dont smoke that junk.
So to adjust that nut do I need to take off outside nut and handle first?
yeah just take off the outside nut and the handle slides out, then you can tighten the nut beneath. I had to do this to all my valves on my new CLS. They only needed tightened like 1/8th of a turn. Too much and they will be really hard to operate or may not move completely.
What if the handle doesn’t just pop off? I don’t wanna stick screw driver and pry? this isn’t my yota!
Lol
try wiggling it a bit, mine were like that, once you get them started they come off easier. If it doesn’t with a wiggle, just stick a flat head screw driver in there - that’s what I always do… Just be careful obviously not to damage anything with it
depending on the model you may have to, the hamlets I use for the C.R.C don’t require it. I like that feature when seconds count.
Where do you get swagloks at? Do you have part # for the ones you use. That way I could say guts like this one but 1/4" not 3/8?
There are tons of swagelock reps out in just about every area of the us. do you want a needle or ball valve? when you ask them for the valve ask for one with no lubericant, special cleaning and packaging.
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-43GS6-1466&item=
https://www.swagelok.co.jp/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-18RS8-AG-NL
these are quality valves
Maybe I need to ask u. I run nitrogen and DI cold only…do I want needle or ball valves? 1/4" npt
And what if I adapt a 3/8 valve to my 1/4" that ok
really both work for liquid or gas, the advantage of the ball valve is more unrestricted flow, while a needle valve is good for metering and controlling flow.
ball valve= less restricted flow used for large transfers, or on/off service. quick to open /close
needle valve= more restricted orfaces, used to meter and control flow in a process, can be used in a wide range of applications.
slow to turn fully off/on due to wide range of fine adjustment.
if you are going to upgrade valves and want to go bigger, why not do the hoses too?
Would my 1/4" outlets not bog it down ? Jw? If my recovery gets any faster I won’t be able to take piss break!
I never run wide open so needle . I’m cracked open always lol
I’m with you man, if my recovery went faster I’d probably go from ready to pour to I have to scrape in a couple of seconds… That actually happened last run, went to open it and by the time I got the platter off, it was too far evaped lol
Wish I had these “minions” I’ve heard them speak of… But I’m one man band
“Hey get that done I’m going to smoke cig!”
you got a willing friend? see if they are willing to be promoted to minion for some of the hash they made. double points if they grew it and you dragged them through extracting it in your gear for a 50% split 
