Oh we’re open blasting here… I’m out. Apparently this convo is too complicated for me. Too much tech
I suppose my system isn’t up to par…
Third edit:
I don’t use pumps. They are slow, inefficient, ineffective, noisy, and lastly/finally fucking useless to me.
For my personal runs and experiments yes I’ve been open blasting. That’s changing once I receive the cls I designed. Unfortunately I didn’t have the extra cash to spend on a cls. I’m in a better spot finically to upgrade to a design I wanted
I started open blasting, too. Many, upon many of us have. But, I’m speaking from a training aspect (by people far smarter than I), you can’t speed it up. I’ve been where you are with thinking of doing it faster. You can do it more efficiently, but you aren’t going to cut time in half to properly dewax. You will still need to spend 2-4 hours, minimum, to properly dewax. You won’t be busting out the filtration that I can and do, in less than an hour or something.
I agree an average it takes 2-4 hours to dewax if it’s more efficient at removing the wax then it’s going to save you time it makes more sense to have wax settle in places where the solution isn’t being pulled through a patty of wax and fats before it hits the filter.
I agree on loads your doing that isn’t possible that is why I pointed out it is a small batch and open blast. Take some Pyrex dishes and put them in a cooler with dry ice and have your dish with your solution sitting in an iso dry ice bath once you see fats forming pour into the next dish after 2 switches on Pyrex then a filtration gets it done pretty quick. You can also drop pieces of dry ice and I had success with that crashing waxes out of the solution
I never dewax for less than 4 hours. That’s just how long it takes to get going, properly. Ideally, I would multi-stage my dewaxing. Stop for a bit at a lower temp, flush/filter, then transfer over to the next chamber and go colder for another alloted amount of time.
My best results so far has been 8 hour dewax to be honest and it was this batch right here. It seemed a lot waxier than normal or wax kept getting through my filter
Like I said, it takes time
Well on another note here is an update on my jar. A little insight the other day my of oregon orange produced a small hair line fracture on the bottom of the jar and while I had it sitting. I ignored the fracture since it still had pressure and everything seemed fine. I was wrong and the next day I had sap seeping out of the hairline crack. I decided to marry it together with my Afghan goo since I’m going for crystal growth and the two strains happen to have fruity but different scents. They sat for couple days looked like nothing was growing burped it today let it pressurize back up and noticed some new growth popped it in the freezer for two hours and then it’s been in the fridge for the past hour. Anyways my solution has formed layers at this point. I’m assuming the head band around the top is my Terps separating and the solution below this ring is cloudy meow is this normal. I’m assuming it’s the thc-a crashing out of the solution since it’s at its saturation point. I’m also assuming it’s at the saturation point since the lid didn’t build up as much pressure as the last time around. Anyone with some input whats happening and if what I’m saying is actually happening
Once u seal it I shouldn’t go back to cold… keeping warm keeps the fluid thinner, terps help for doing same thing! Thinner let’s the thcA molecules move more freely… Getting cold is slowing down your gowth!..
And I’m still scratching my head trying to figure out ur design… Only so many ways to do…
The solute must pass through the filters to be sent to the next stage…so seems like no other way …most use nitrogen to push it around…and was told if u use material dewax also then you don’t take as many fats which makes the process much easier and faster…
I’m really trying here I just wanna get the process
Also if u dont keep sealed and are pouring u may take the chance dropping thcA along with the fats… Talking about during open blasting
Oh yeah I have some stuff stat behind when I pour off. I lose about a half gram of good product. I played around with soaking the filters and dishes to find out what I was losing by dewaxing. So to much cold is bad if the liquid thinkens up. What about 30-50 Fahrenheit or will I still run into weak bonds that way.
As for my design cyro is the most on track on what I’m aiming to do
Colder temps just means less molecular motion means slower formation of crystals. This can actually end up creating big nice crystals, but it’ll take months upon months. Keep it between 20-30° Celcius.
Thank you krative so theoretically I can get my crystals to grow in the fridge or freezer it’ll just be a lot longer since my solution will become more viscous. When researching crystal growth I primarily did more research on crystallization using cold temps which lead to go about an unorthodox method with my crystal growing by alternating between room temp, freezer, and fridge
In three days I leave for Oregon. I am wondering if I let it grow up until I leave. Or if I should transfer it to the container I’m using to take it with me. I’m traveling plane if I wasn’t I’d leave it in the jar. I’m afraid it’ll break getting tossed around and ruin the crystal formation
Definitely don’t take it on a plane. It’ll explode. Just keep it capped at room temp while you are gone. That temperature cycling is nice but if you have to transfer it between different locations for each temp your crystals aren’t going to form well. Temperature drops work well when your solvent is not viscous but in this case our solvent is our terpenes which are viscous as fuck. Dropping the temp on terpenes just make them so viscous you won’t get much formation. The only reason the initial cold crash out works for people is because they leave an ample amount of butane in the solution, then allow the butane to release as soon as it’s taken out to room temp causing it to become thick and hopefully preserving some of those crystals that just formed.
If you take it with you on a plane it won’t form crystals because you are moving around lots, but it’ll also explode due to plane cabins being pressurized to 8000 feet. Crystal growth relies on very slow assembly of molecules into a crytal lattice structure. DONT MOVE IT.
So I popped the jar open today and had it in a vacuum in a oven at 90 Fahrenheit Had some crystals growth while it was purging today they look like snow flake crystals that grew in the vacuum. I’m getting ready to try some. I’m bout to take its photo shoot too.
I have to say I’m very happy with my first successful crystal growing operation. I had one other attempt but didn’t grow anything and I think that had to do with the product I used looking back on it meow. I appreciate the wonderful information on here granted this batch I didn’t follow the sop on here and approached this with an unorthodox method so I could better understand crystal growth and formation. The post on here seem like they will be helpful for my next batch of crystals and will take the advice of adding more heat to crash the crystals out.
Technically since we are increasing the psi in the jar does that in anyway affect the boiling temps of the terpenes and cannabinoids. If so I’m assuming we will need a higher temp to boil the cannabinoids and terps. If that is the case how high can we increase the temp with before decarboxylation starts to occur. I’m also assuming the rate of decarboxylation will also change under these conditions?
Avoid heat wherever possible. Increasing pressure only increases boiling point when the pressure is increased. When you are purging you are decreasing the pressure so the boiling points decrease. Don’t heat at all or you lose some THCa to THC and some terpenes vaporize. Stick with long vacuum.
Yes I understand the concept of how a vacuum works. I am just asking a simple about how when the pressure is built up for diamonds what the boiling temp of thca is at this point. I never use heat during any my process I’d rather purge longer at lower temps for maximum preservation of taste. I was curious if anyone experimented with shooting the temps higher than 100 and what were the results. I feel like the conditions we are setting up to grow the diamonds may be able to take a little extra heat which should hopefully increase the saturation point. So once saturation point is reached at the higher temp you start cooling it down to get the crystals to crash then you would continue normally on growing?
The compound being in Crystal form doesn’t change it’s boiling point. Although I’m not sure I am understanding your question. There are people over on the Only the Strong Sauce Tek board who have used 100 or even 110 degrees Fahrenheit but this is risky. Further, higher temp means higher solubility means solution is less saturated means you are getting less stuff coming out of solution in a solid crystal structure. That’s my logic at least.
I think he’s asking more along the lines of how the BP is affected by increased pressures. For instance this chart shows the BP of water goes up as the pressure goes up, just as it goes down under vac. Does anyone have any solid data on this with cannabinoids?
Yeah cloud you understood more of what I was asking thank you for wording that better for me.
Krative I understand higher temps means it’ll take more thca to reach saturation point but the whole idea of what I am saying is by taking advantage of solution being able to dissolve more thca at higher temps then theoretically when it reaches saturation point and reducing the temp you would see some very nice crystal formation once bringing it to room temp or less. So let’s say we can can crank the temp up to 150-180 with out having to worry about decarboxylation then you can have a super saturated solution then once you bring it down to 90-110 you would have thc crashing out rapidly
