Need a Consultant to Help Prevent Oxidation from MMJ D9 and Converted D9

Hash and Stuff Distillation
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Hey All,

You guys are the best of the best online and I am applying to be a GLG member! I’ve been working with some converted D9 (It’s more like a mix of D9 and D8) as well as some D9 from MMJ Trim and am having a hell of a time preventing the distillate from oxidizing.

I’ve been reading on these threads for days on water washing, magsil, etc and there seems to be 100 different opinions on why this happens and 100 different methods on how to prevent the oxidation. It seems likely that the oxidation is largerly a PH issue but I’m just not a scientist and don’t know.

I know oxidation is more of a problem with the less color in the oil but I do know if you don’t bring your oil back to close to neutral as possible that the oxidation is a nightmare and I nee someone to help me identify what I’m doing wrong and how I can create a replicatable process.

If there is anyone out there that offers consulting and has experience with making a stable water clear to light pale yellow oil from converted D9 and from MMJ derived D9, hit a brother up!

Thanks fam,

Mulls

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Most important things to keep in mind before distillation is:
PH is at 7
You cannot have any clays or particulates in your boiling flask.
No air leaks during distillation.

Now preventing oxidation while bottling can be done with a shielding gas like argon or the more common nitrogen.

There are a ton of different things to consider but these are the major ones.

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Good one @thesk8nmidget aka spoon man

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Totally Agree. How do you ensure the pH is at 7? I’ve been washing with distilled water and just read up on how distilled h20 is traditionally more acidic than neutral. I was thinking maybe use a pH buffer to help keep the water at 7?

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You ensure the ph of your water going in is a ph of 7. Then test the water coming out to ensure its ph is the same, if its not you need another wash with your 7 ph water.

I usually add in 20ml sodium hydroxide to bring a gallon of water up to a ph of 7.

If you are taking the time to water wash you should really take a couple extra steps and do a few ph swings to 4 and 9 and get more water soluble impurities out. your end result will improve drastically.

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Try this out.

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Everything in this is correct and a GREAT writeup. But the citric acid and baking soda is backwards for ph up and down.

Salt is also not required but helps a lot if you get a nasty emulsion layer.

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Lol i really wish i double checked that b4 i hit submit haha, i was really tired and a simple mistake. But now everyone links that write up and i always feel dumb when i see i mixed those two up haha if only i could go in and edit it one more time :thinking:

FYI I do powderstack first then the water washes.

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I bet @sidco could edit the original post to correct it. I see it get shared all the time too and remember reading your correction in the original thread.

What made you switch the order from powders first to water washes? I always do powders last to capture that residual water.

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Because the powders affect the ph of the oil alot, so i like to balance it after it goes thru the powders. I connect a molsieve cannister (3x24) in between my reactor and roto. Oh and even if u see ur heptane layer snd u think u got all thr water out, u probably didnt. Theres micrscopic water droplets that are embeded in the heptane layer, just fyi. So i always finish my washes off with a molsieve inline filter now.
Before i had the inline, i just filled my media bottles halfway with mol sieve and dumped the reactor into the bottles then used a dip tube in the bottle with alittle SS screen over it to not suck up molsieve

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Add sulfate after final wash seperation & removal of water you’ll remove more moisture then the seives can :wink:

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How do u remove the sulfate then? U distill with it in the crude?

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Filter it out at .2 micron it will solidify upon moisture & won’t pass through.

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That make a lot of sense, I assumed it was due to ph instability. thanks for explaining.

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Huh? So if theres no moisture, it doesnr solidify and now its in ur crude?

This makes sense for a conversion reaction, but idk if u need 99.999999% dry for traditional cannabinoid clean up/distillation. Cuz u would filter the stuff after over a powder stack, but not for traditional, it goes straight to the spd

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After lle there’s always residual moisture or as you explained microscopic, the amount of moisture that sulfate can hold compared to seive in a filtration style like this is far better ime. You can even text it, put water into solvent & test comparison.

Removing as much moisture as possible would help with less of a azulene fraction if any as well for traditional

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@Cheebachiefextracts
Yes but u get to the point where the moisture is clumped up, what happens to the residual sulfate that didnt bind with water? Still able to filter that out?

I know what zeolite powder does in my distillation (not much), what does sulfate do?

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Considering the micron size for powder is 65u-150u if it doesn’t solidify it would be filtered out upon your .2u filtration.

Shouldn’t be any residual of it.

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do you mean 15% by oil weight or water weight?

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I would go with water weight since that’s where the salt is going

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