Tacoed a few leaves going full strength. Im not sure if you explained exatly what fulvic/humic acids do? Some guys might need to back off of the ferts when adding it. @AgTonik
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Youāre absolutely right, @BG305 The fulvic acid allows better nutrient absorption through chelation and revs up the plant metabolism with other organic acids like Gallic acid. 90% is a good place to roll your base back to if you are a straight salt guy.
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I really like the Haifa CalPrime product. Itās more concentrated and I seem to have an easier time getting it to dissolve. I use Yara for MKP and one of their sub-brands Fe-HBED
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As I recall, the calcium % was better for my DIY rolled nutes too.
GH has a nice Cal Nit product with micros included.
We had decent luck with GH until we started mixing from scratch but theyāre a bit $$$. Also I much prefer having everything individual. Makes it easier to tweak even if it means having to measure out 20 something components each time we make a batch up.
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The productās N-P-K numbers reflect each nutrientās percentage by weight seeing as these powders are probably made in the same or almost identical fertilizer plant ( i dont know exact makeup of HGV nitrogen for example (ammonium nitrate, urea nitrogen, etc) it would actually appear as though Jacks makes more āgallons of feedā solution per lb of powder.
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Depends on how you use it. 4g of growth or Flowering /2.5g of base should put you in the 1200ppm range using RO. Break out your Texas instrument you said cost was $10 a # on the HGV.
I mix 125 #'s into a 55 gallon drum and feed thru dosers.
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Humic and fulvic acid make everything you have in your soil that is marginally available into very available. If your soil is not balanced, making everything more available is not a great idea. Often we see sodium get kicked loose, more potassium, etcā¦ and if these elements were already high in comparison to Calcium, making a lot more potassium and sodium available will have in many cases some negative consequences.
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Exactly
They still make about an equal amount of finished nutrient feed liquid. I feed Jackās 3-2-1 at about 1.6ec during their hungriest part of flower or 800ppm 6 times a day in my dtw Coco system. I could probably feed as high as 1200ppm like you do with hgv but I find itās not necessary with jacks. I like to give them just the right amount just past the point of showing absolutely no deficiencies. This point is 1.6 EC so it appears that jacks/calcinit/epsom is not only far cheaper but also makes 50% more mixed liquid since I only have to feed it at 1.6 EC.
@BG305 nothing against you buddy and Iām sure you have some sweet setups. Iām merely defending my pov now since it was mentioned that my mentality might not be in tune with producing the highest of quality. In fact the opposite is true and I simultaneously do not like nutrient companies or anyone in this business green taxing shit because itās targeted towards cannabis.
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Hey Ford beat Ferrari at Le mans. We all use what nutriens work for us. This is a commercial grow so i need the most inexpensive ferts that produce the highest yield/quality flowers.
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Iām not a fan of all these chemicals and salts. I like to make everything from scratch. You can basically extract natural and organic components into a solluable composition that the plants like. You can also make organic high n and organic high pk without over feeding.
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Now you dont eat salt?
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The most successful people that i know all use the nutrient line canna . It might be expensive but they produce the most flower per square foot . It takes them 5 square feet to produce a pound of flower indoors and It takes them 8 square feet in a light dep . I have seen many grows and i have never met anyone else capable of producing the yields they can . In a 30Ć100 greenhouse they pull 300+ pounds of indoor quality flower that tests cat 3 and 27%+ thc . All my other friends do not even believe it is possible they call bullshit . I personally have seen it with my own eyes so i know its real . I just up my level of standard and set my goals higher as well as following their SOPs now . Canna is 90% organic with a touch of minerals ( in my book minerals are organic ) perfected by master Dutch growers . Fun fact the Dutch created the sea of green style grow that we have all come to know and love ( IMO the best grow style to date )
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Thatās the average yield among the top growers. Do you think Canna sources its nutrients in the form they sell it to you in or do you think th e y mix in salts to water?
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They do a plant ferment then add trace minerals no salts involved . This is why i would use them because i make plant ferments in the form of compost teas then add trace minerals . I just donāt have a scientifically formulated line made specifically for growing cannabis i guess where canna is lab tested ect in a perfect formula everytime . So for me and all my comercial scale friends its worth the extra money . I have friends running such large operations they pay 10k a month in just water and nutes .
I have a set of canna and bio canna nutes, as well as house and garden, general organic, jacks and technalora. Iāve been meaning to have a bake off.
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@blackie I personally would stay away from general organics they have molybdenum in their list of ingredients and fertilizer % it is a trace amount but it is in their grow and bloom and will concentrate in your flower. Also maybe its just me but any flower i smoke grown with salts is harsh half way through the joint and tastes like Iām sucking on a nickel . Everyone who smokes my organic flower says it is much smoother and does not get this effect
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