Minisplit .02 needed

So I may need to, well I think I actually need to upgrade my ac system. I ONLY have a 110v 20 amp dedicated line for this. It will be too difficult to try and take 2x 20amp 110v runs and make 1 220v. I’m sure it can be done, but would rather not.

So with that out of the way. Im looking for a 12k or higher btu minisplit, that operates on 110/115v (I have a dedicated 20amp 110v line already for it). This ms MUST be able to handle temps occasionally 10*f or below at times w/o issues!

I have a hvac guy I trust, so that part is taken care of.

I found this
Or this

I would highly recommend going to 220v for less power consumption.
Why not replace some circuit breakers with some 2 pole ones to make room in your panel? no need to run more wire to accomplish this.

like these?


I have had good luck with Midea products. My HVAC guy took care of the rest.

220v vs 110v only allows the current to flow easier (220v). It not like the wattage is less, just makes the power flow easier like water.

I would need to have my electrician client come in my spot (I’d rather not have him here) and figure out the wires. He didnt do the initial wiring install. Another dumb-ass did. And yes, my prior guy 2as a dumbass who couldnt measure for shit. But that’s another story


Is an in room ac not an option?

Just some wild food for thought. Most ac units only take 3 conductors…

You could just grab the neutral line and use it as the second hot leg.

If the wire is rated for 20 amps, that’s gauge dependent. The real saving grace in this scenario is the ac doesn’t need 4 wires.



That’s a perfect idea!!! Just have to run a trace on the neutral to try to find it in the panel, and you’re good to go!


Yeah that’s what I would do.

If it’s already ran for 20 amp 120 volt take the neutral and make it a hot wire it to a double pole 240 volt breaker You’ve now got a 20 amp 240 volt line.


As long as it was a dedicated circuit with no other loads there’s no reason you shouldn’t be able to use the 12/2 romex for a 240v minisplit


Just color the white wire in the panel and at the mini split

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EDIT: i was incorrect.


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Amperage and voltage are inversely related, the power used otherwise known as watts is a function of the two values multiplied together W=A•V. You don’t use less power (watts) with a higher voltage just a lower amperage.


Thanks that is absolutely correct, I need to stop calibrating a GC and posting at the same time. :man_teacher: :joy:


I knew what you were trying to say.
We just needed @that445guy to gives us that technical explanation


Ok, just talked to my electrician client. We are gonna remove all the current 8x 20amp runs from the house panel, to 1 50 amp pull/run to a new panel in the grow area. Then make 2x 20 amp pulls (1 for lighting, 1 for new minisplit (220v), and a few 110v plugs as well for the fans n such.

Now find me a 220v minisplit in the 18k range that can work in low temps. I only need ac, NOT heat.


Most are heat pumps also. Its cheaper to have one assembly line and add in a cheap valve.

MRCOOL DIY 18,000 BTU 20 SEER Ductless Mini Split AC and Heat Pump with Wireless-Enabled Smart Controller

By: MRCOOL Model: DIY-18-HP-230B25
I’ve slapped a few of these in for friends they are cheap and easy.
As long as it as a low ambient kit it will work for you.


I just need it to work in 10*f temps or even lower. Cost, not too worried. 220v 18k btu should suffice.

And go!

It does get below 0 on occasion here.


I would go this for a mini split it has much better components.
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I don’t believe the mini split is the question…

He’s wondering if his outdoor unit will be able to run in cool mode in the harsh Michigan winters.

I’m having a hard time finding info on how cold the outdoor units can run.


I thought I seen a daiken unit that can work to 0f. I’ll do more digging tonight.

BUT, I can build a box (6" gap around sides), but leave the fan side exposed (open). This should be able to trap a little heat. Just brainstorming here. I usually think out of the box after a dab or 2.

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