Lab Flooring?

What are you guys using for flooring in your work spaces? We mainly fill carts and have been moving into white labeling. Moved into a new space and need to pull carpet in our production space and replace it.

Did you happen to try searching “floors” in the search bar?

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I did. I should edit my post. I need flooring recommendations for a floor that isn’t concrete. This is a second story space.

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Gaco.

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I’d go with something similar to what this company offers.

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Marine grade Epoxy has been approved by Health Canada for use in federally licensed GPP facilities, as well as by GMP accreditation groups. Epoxy is the cheapest, there’s others like tiles, vinyl and sealed concrete, but epoxy is easiest to maintain, and cheapest that I have found.

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Some of my friends from the pharma world have said they’re switching away from epoxy and moving to polished/sealed concrete.

Epoxy is great until it gets even slightly damaged and then you have to re-do the entire room/area. You can spot fix polished concrete.

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Honestly have someone come in and give you a quote and tell them what you want and they will tell you what they would probably use and then you atleast have a direction.

It’s very sleezy wasting their time like that but if your starting your own company with your own money I had to learn every trick in the book to save money without sacrificing quality,

You will learn the easy way or the horrible way what things should be done yourself or done cheap and what should be paid too dollar for.

Put the gate I would do a cheap easy sand and polish concrete and lay thick layer of epoxy that’s slip resistant. Ideally something you can put possible tiles or other types of epoxy over later when you have better budget

Idk what your budget or project size is I just read like the first half of title and started typing so ignore me if this is off tangent I’m in major ADD Mode right now :tada::ok_hand:

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Dur-A-Flex flooring is what I would pick 10/10.

I did the Hybriflex AB with an Accelera top coat. $13/sqft with a clean-room base cove.

indestructible and always can clean it to a perfect like-new finish.

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I’m seriously blown away by this flooring’s durability and how it cleans and wont crack from chems. Expensive but so worth it.

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Dur a flex is nice and all, but your going to way over pay for a coated floor. I run a commercial cleaning company and you’ll get just as much of not longer out of polished concrete or regular two part epoxy.

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Contact a local concrete floor guy.

The product you use is only part of it, the prep and application matter immensely and the contractors that specialize in this have tools that allow them to do the work in a more professional manner and that leaves you with a nice floor surface that lasts for years.

Skipping any steps on prep and application make it look like shit and cuts the life of the finish immeasurably.

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I was able to grind, fix the cracks, 2 part epoxy coat, and urethane clear coat my 1400 sq ft shop for about 3000$. My 3 wook’s labor was about 1500$ and the materials and concrete grinder rental ended up being about 1500$. It has held up very nicely over the past year and is very easy to clean. Only problem is water condensation in the winter from edible production makes the floor very slippery.

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That looks great. I want to do this in my garage but I’ve never done it before. I’d want a shade or three lighter on the blue though.

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So it really wasn’t that bad at all. The hardest/longest part was surface prep. We used a concrete grinder from the rental house and just ran swaths across it like we were mowing the concrete. Then we took an angle grinder with a concrete blade and cut Vee notches along all of the cracks and filled it with bondo. Grinded the bondo back down smooth and washed the hell out of the surface. Once it dried we were ready to apply the A/B epoxy. I believe we ended up using the Sherwin Williams Armor Seal.

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That looks like most of the floors I grind down. Good job for a diy.

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For your garage I would personally choose 2 part polyurea basecoat and 2 part polyaspartic top coat. Throw vinyl chip on the polyurea base coat, let it dry, scrape chip off, top coat.

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So, curious what’s the purpose of this? Is it just to keep it level or something? Do you over-apply the chip in the first place?

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Yeah, also, I have a pretty big crack going wall to wall. I imagine I have to seal that similar to what hempman did. My garage floor looks like shit. :frowning:

Bonus car pic

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We have used Lifetime Green Coatings 2-part epoxy-like flooring with really good success in our container labs.

Edit: Pic of floor with full-flake coverage

Double Edit: Also @Lincoln20XX their product is fully spot repairable (have tested this personally and in the field). This is a double-edged sword because the base product doesn’t set up quite as hard as a traditional epoxy, so you’re losing a bit of durability. I personally would take this because of the repairability. It also works great for the container labs because it can flex without cracking during transport.

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