I've been reading alot about BHO on here, please critique my what I think I learned!

I’ve learned a lot of great information from ya’lls posts for a month or so and I sure appreciate the time invested and knowledge shared. Most of my questions have been asked and answered ad nauseum, though I’ve seen the same gurus offer different answers depending on what systems/processes are being used. I only ask again to ensure I am not missing important nuances, please don’t take it as disregard for your time.

In designing this rig/process my priorities were to safely, consistently do two runs of the same material quickly while operating solo outdoors mostly one-handed (so my right hand can be ready for the unexpected). The decision to do two runs was to accommodate the quality/quantity trade-off. I am making carts and chocolate bars from the product, so I plan to do one 5-min soak or rinse (high quality), purge the collection chamber, swap splatter platters, and do a second 30min soak (food grade) and then purge the collection AND material chamber.

For context, I have a pretty standard 1lb system with a jacketed material chamber, inline sight glass, hemi lid with 2 sight glasses, conical (not hemi) mat chamber reducer, 1.5" valve etc. I added two 6"x18" (oversized intentionally) SS solvent storage tanks (donor and recipient) so that I can purge faster as well as dry butane and clean alternating tanks between each run. I also attached temp/pressure gauges anywhere there is a valve, added high-flow quick-connects (after distilling butane with and without, they slowed things a tiny bit but way worth it), added PRV and manual release valves, and bought a 3"x18" mole sieve to use between runs (not during until I have a rack and more experience).

I also bought a few 3" filter housings but decided to wait on them because they may cause slowing from resistance or vapor lock and if I have an issue I want a simpler troubleshooting process. I got some CRX and a 6" chamber/assembly for CRC, shold I also wait to add this complicatio? I wonder about using filter plates that can slide into the base of the material chamber (like this). Beyond that I just have typical accessories like refrigerant scale, laser thermometer (I added tape to SS components so I can get a temp), combustible vapor detector, and insulated super grip gloves.

I’ve learned that I should replace the single hinge clamps with double bolted ones and probably get solvent res lids with both vapor and liquid ports in them. I also wonder about getting a hemi reducer with a 1/4" inlet to allow me to bottom fill.

I’m using Dried (60% humidity) cured bud, should I dry it further prior to freezing?

Should I break material down to marble sized nugs with minimal breakage, or crush/grind it?

I plan to freeze the bud under vacuum, is this required for dry material or just fresh frozen

I have a co2 tank and 0-200psi regulator, is this an appropriate substitute for nitro? I understand that I must avoid storing liquified co2 which is certainly possible as my system will hopefully get below -70f and may accidentally get above 60psi. I installed a 100psi PRV and would manually purge the co2 from the collection chamber prior to attempting solvent recovery.

Does it make sense to pack bud in several felt sock filters (75/25/10), or would solvent just channel around the outside of the material? Would soaking make this a non-issue?

I prefer felt filters over nylon mesh for depth/capacity, can I cut felt into disks and use it on a filter-plate instead of steel mesh or coffee filter?

I plan to start with .5lb runs (1lb system) so I get more experience under my belt, would it make sense to use steel balls to dewax bottom half of jacketed extraction chamber?

Also, I have a decent bit of frozen Kief, any tips on running this through a CLS without clogging??

I plant to start with dry ice/isopropyl in the material chamber sleeve (MCS), and then at the end fill it with 190* water. Should I worry about the thermal shock impacting the equipment?

It looks like I should insulate the material chamber below the sleeve to prevent vapor lock. Is there any reason not to make a Reflectix cover to insulate the material chamber sleeve as well?

Right now weekly outside temp undulates between 0f and 40f, and am using fluids that range from -100* to +100* for extended periods. Would it be best to shoot for a warmer day if I have more dry ice than water heating capacity? I am already using 5gal beverage coolers with reflectix baffles to mitigate heat transfer with outside air. I’ve also read that colder is better in terms of quality, should I shoot for a cold day to prevent marginal heat transfer into the system?

My solvant is mostly neon N-butane with some whip-it tri-mix, using MSDS and partial-pressure info I determined it has an evaporation point of +23.18*f.

I understand that thermal differential is the primary source of flow, but want to keep the extraction chamber as cold as possible for a clean product. Does it make sense to surround both the material and recovery chamber with iso/dry-ice (-100f) in and rely on intentionally warmer (-25f) solvent to warm the material chamber and encourage migration to the colder collection chamber? The collection chamber will have several-fold the volume of iso and dry-ice surrounding it.

Thanks in advance for the help! Some of you guys are personal heroes and I’m excited to join the conversation, even if I only know enough to ask questions.


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Get better clamps. Those are janky and unsafe for a cls.

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scuse the ignorant question, what makes a clamp suitable?

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Proper pressure ratings

Also, @op, great first post

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Basic high pressure clamps is all he is saying imo.

Those hinge pin (whatever the fuck they are called) ones suck.

And look into n2 assist…

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something like this appropriate?

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Yeah.

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I just use hot water from a water heater. I’m a broke boi too (meaning I don’t have an appropriate water heating system for my recovery), it works fine for my system and it’s even larger than yours. Fill with hot water, once it cools down drain your res and fill again. Dont need(or want) this much heat imo

Edit: realize you are talking about your material column, I’m taking about heating your collection during recovery portion.

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These are 3" connections at the biggest, those hinge clamps will be fine. It’s really only necessary to use high pressure clamps on 6" or larger flanges.

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His collection is most def a 6”

You do you brah. I personally don’t Want those things anywhere near a system I run.

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Yeah I didn’t look that close at the first pic.

I don’t use hinge clamps anywhere, but I also don’t see any point in telling him to buy new clamps. Except for that 6" evidently.

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I had those single pins, they ‘work’ but I had more than a few that’d have leaks no matter how much I tightened em. Also had a few that warped putting minimal torque on them as well.

I don’t trust em from personal experience, I ran with them for a bit then had difficulties and kept having to replace em. Ended up changing it all out.

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Change the single pin clamps to double bolt high pressure clamps. Also you cannot substitute nitrogen for co2, this can lead to a catastrophe especially without double bolt clamps you should not be using n2 push.
Freezing is not required but will produce higher quality end product.
For the keif mix it in with biomass and do the run other wise you might end up clogging.
yes you can cut the felt for your filter plates but these will clog make sure to replace after each run.
If you grind your material you will get a better yield but a lower quality product, just break it down in a bag to open the flower up other wise you won’t get a complete extraction @JazzBandit

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Welcome to the future @JazzBandit! I can see you’ve been doing your homework, and there have been many good suggestions so far. Don’t forget about distilling your gas before running, and keep an eye on the quick connects for leaks as they wear.

Never underestimate the value of good shelter while running outside. Something to block the wind and view from passersby is good, along with a decent workbench/table of some sorts to keep things organized and clean. When working outside, please still be mindful of things in the vicinity such as outdoor lighting, AC units, exhaust fans, or any other potential source of ignition.

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I’ve run into these hinged clamps in sanitary dairy equipment and can confirm, they fucking leak everywhere and they suck and human error/misalignment can really chew through gaskets too

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Yeah do not use co2 in place of nitrogen like said above it’s not safe at all

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One thing about this forum, all your activity is public. Youve been on one day and read 40 minutes since you signed up. Ill presume you may have read before joining.

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Yeah, I need to get on those clamps, unfortunately I didn’t know that when I bought the first ones.

Could you help me understand the diff between using n2 and co2? Is it because I might (and thus eventually will accidentally…) operate beyond the triple point of CO2? In my mind if I open a valve on the collection chamber at a temp low enough to liquefy (say -25f) butane it should evap/vent all the liquid co2 leaving only a tiny bit of gas. My “knowledge” is all theory so I’m asking with the intent to learn and understand fundamentals from those who have experience. I definitely prefer to spend a couple hundred instead of risking co2 blowing a tank as it warms.

I love the water heater idea, it should put out way more (safe) wattage than a sous vide or aquarium heater. At the moment it would be hard to use in my outdoor location, but I’ll keep it in mind for when I get a compatible space. Right now I’m emberrased to say I am just heating water in my shop, and walking it a few hundred feet to where I’m running the rig and swap coolers.

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A sous vide and 50 gal long cooler would be your best friend maintaining water temperature for faster recovery…

I think the reason you don’t use co2 is the psi isn’t constant with temperature so you could blow your rig up theoretically

And 10 gal round cooler w denatured alcohol slurry makes the best cooling cooler for smaller rigs with 6-8" bases

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