If thats not how cooling power works why would they give you a chart showing cooling power and watts of cooling power at a certain temp/loads at a cetain temp?
Because consumers of these products need that information to size their chillers to match their anticipated loads. Setting a temp setpoint further below where you actually need it doesn’t reduce cooling power in the range where you do, whether you set it at -6C or -20C it’s going to run the same if the heat load on your chiller puts the liquid at 5C, that setpoint difference doesn’t change how much power your chiller has but it may cool your thermal fluid beyond what you need and there are reasons for doing so as I stated above.
Define “proper condensing” please, my goal is maximizing recovery speed, not whatever you think “proper condensing” is. I have a large cold trap between my rotos and vac pump to catch anything the condenser coils don’t. And this setup is most certainly faster than running my roto baths at 70C, you have yet to show me evidence to the contrary.
Beyond that, pure ethanol by itself may boil at 36C, I am trying to get ethanol that is mixed with a variety of other chemicals to boil and I can tell you right now it most definitely won’t do it at the maximum vaccum I can pull with bath temp at 36C.
Attached is the delta seperations user manual for there falling film THAT DOES NOT WORK UNDER VAC. They run the water at 90C under normal atmosphere for evaporation, and actually use a pressure pump to raise the condensation point so the chiller doesnt have to work as hard. These people actually calculated there thermodynamics to work correctly. 90c at full vac is counter productive. IDGAF what you say. Its no wonder youre having problems.
Im not talking about setpoint Im talking about actual coolant temp. Your chiller has more chilling power running at 10c then when you force it to have to run the coolant at -22.
Again, your reading comprehension seems to be broken. I’m not having problems - I’m going pretty fast with my rotos, and made an observation - one OP seems to have duplicated, by the way, with their idea - that you can increase roto speed by cooling down exterior glass and providing more cool surface area to condense vapor upon.
My goal isnt speed, its oil preservation. My methods arent ideal for production because the oil becomes a muffin from the vac i pull on it. It gets a syeady stream with a dosing pump so i never have to worry about popping. There isnt alot of ethanol in the boiling flask when i run it. It keeps the heating more efficient because i also have a preheater on the line but only right before it hits the roto.
If ur going for speed without worrying about the oil decarbing (hemp) u shouldnt have as deep of a vacuum as i do.
But back to the main topic, i wonder if having a drain valve on there would be useful, and perhaps instead of using iso to get it down to -80c u can use saline like austranut was using so there isnt so much stress on the glass.
I guarantee hes having this problem if hes pulling full vac but you cant convince a brick wall hes wrong. Theres a reason hes a noob account and Im a consultant lol but hey go buy more rotos when for the price of those 6 rotos and chillers you could have built your own FFE FUNNY deltas runs under NO vac and runs the water at 90c, the temp this dude runs under vac rofl funny shit.
Im not throwing shade or anything like you are, im simply pointing out my observstions. And i can boil ethanol at room temp from pulling vac, take out the distilling head and put a thermometer in there and it reads below 36c…
I wouldnt be talking like this and boasting about being a consultant… doesnt look too good
Go google the difference between evaporation and boiling and i think youll see unless youre above the boiling point of the liquid youre just evaporating. There is a difference. Liquid will always evaporate and vacuum will speed this up. That doesnt mean its boiling
You’re being dickish about it but I agree with you that high vac high temp is not efficient for a whole host of reasons, on the condensing side as well as the boiling side- you have to balance and tune your system,
boiling points are not set points- they exist on a curve - full blast is like jamming your foot on an accelerator- you are spinning your wheels and wasting gas doing so.
A rotovap makes it a lot harder to what the solution is doing as it’s constantly in motion but I garuntee if you were to create the exact same heat and vac conditions in an SPD you would understand how your solution behaves and alter course- pulsating, violently fluctuating boiling is not as efficient as a steady steam.
i bet you money your bizzy bee unit doesnt run above 70c because it runs under vac you dont understand thermo dynamics its pretty obvious or you would be able to understand how vacuum can be counter productive
I think you can answer your own question on that one, isnt it obvious? Why would the chiller side run above the temp that ethanol condenses? Common sense isnt so common
Now you’re just being mean- at least he’s not trying to extract from bobs red mill protein powder like that guy last week
I am wondering about why one would pressurize a falling film to raise BP though please elaborate more on that theory, I am planning on running h2o steam through my FFE and that point piqued my interest.
If you apply preesure to a vapor it raises the condesation point. Lets say at full vac ethanol evaporates/condenses at 36c and at -27 its 40c. at -27 you only have to cool the vapor to 40c instead of 36c saving you chilling power. Crazy to think about huh? Its the opposite of vac.
Nobody’s running chillers at 70C (at least, probably not intentionally). I’m asking are you suggesting temps above 70C in their heating circuit or where solvent is being separated from the oils we’re trying to remove from the tea? When I was at Bizzy’s shop a few weeks ago their test setup heating circuit setpoint was around 100C and Boris has told me most customers run above 80C, some as high as 110C. The heaters they package with their FFEs keep the circuit under pressure so they can run water at above boiling temps and keep it a liquid.
I understand how a pressure cooker works that’s not what I’m asking though- why raise the BP of your solution? Just so that the temp diff between condenser and heating element is greater?
you dont understand thermo dynamics its pretty obvious or you would be able to understand how vacuum can be counter productive