Internal Journal: Future's Pesticide Remediation Tek

Does anyone have any pesticides that seem to bypass this tech? I am having issues with Bifenthrin and Permethrin seeming to not decrease to a passable level? Is it something i am doing wrong somewhere along the process?

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For reference, the bleaching clay in Cbleach has a pH of 3 before interacting with solution. @Photon_noir has the technical data for how that all works.

On another line, have you tried our enzymes for degumming prior to pesticide remediation? The enzyme should break some emulsions and help the clay remove oxidation products more effectively.

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Can you provide any details on “Photon”?

Instagram handle, @photon_noir and I believe that’s his handle here.

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Those 2. Next step is reverse phase @Shadownaught

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In addition to making distillate from scratch using flower/shake, we are doing pesticide/insecticide/fungicide remediation on first path SPD distillate for a number of our customers.

Our goal is to produce a medicine like Rick Simpson Oil without any toxins so it will pass the new California BCC regulations while minimizing our material loss during the remediation process.

We are experiencing a larger than acceptable loss of material during our process. We are seeking input in refining our current SOP for pesticide remediation to reduce loss of material.

We start with a clear, pale yellow, oleoresin that requires pesticide remediation to meet the new CA regulations.

Our current SOP for removing pesticides from this clear Oleoresin is as follows:

  1. We start by dissolving the Oleoresin in Heptane in a 4:1 ratio.

  2. We then brine wash the solution per the SOP published in the Acron Journal for remediation of pesticides. We are using a 50 liter reactor from Lab Society/Across International for this purpose.

  3. We use CBleach per the Columbo Labs SOP for Wet Bleaching.

  • Our question here is whether or not this step necessary since the color of the starting material is very good?
  • Secondly, could we just use the Activated Carbon portion and avoid the loss of product due to the use of CBleach?
  1. We then use a Chromatography Column filled with MagSil to filter the solution. We use a 1:1 ratio of 1 gram Oleoresin to 1 gram of Magsil
  • Is this too much? We have read that you used a 4:1 ratio of Oleoresin to Magsil. Did you have good results?

Thank you for you assistance in this matter.

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Terpenes DEFINITELY carry over myclobutanil and several other pesticides, per my experiments utilizing the original form of this tek we developed on crude rather than on distillate. I had to test that side of the equation.

Same conclusion here. I’m only recommending remediation of first pass or better distillate

Do you think terpenes could be utilized as part of a remediation solution?

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CBleach is a small percentage carbon, and the remainder a bleaching clay. It is much less likely to adsorb THC because of this fact.

Are you using a polar solvent, like iso, to flush the column and recover your cannabinoids after the Heptane flush?

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What were results?

Is the carbon solely for pesticide remediation? Does the carbon absorb cannabinoids?

I will have the materials available within two weeks.

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Does anyone have a compiled list of pesticides with their correlated boiling points and which ones do and do not distill alongside cannabinoid fractions? Been slowly doing it and figured i would ask and hopefully save me a shitload of time…would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Hey Garhundel. It sounds like you could use a little consulting with somone like the progenitors of pesticide remediation. Fortunately, I am one of those people. To answer some of your other questions; C-bleach is citric acid activated montmorillonite (bentonite) clay with I think 5 or 10% activated charcoal (carbon). Both of these things can acidulate a watery solution, so that means ethanol or other alcohols with water in them or water itself has to be used at some point in the process to actually affect pH at all. Putting citric acid in a solution of resin and n-alkane, for example, does nothing but get solid citric acid compound in your product after evaporation of the n-alkane. When water is not present, pH does not exist! However, any effects from pH shifting before losing the water may persist, such as color changes, density changes, etc. @OilArt @Future et al. And yes, @Trevorb2 , pure clean metallic copper is the easiest and least destructive way to remove sulfur and sulfur compounds from your resin. You can apply it any way you like, but it is not done with sulfurous remediation until it stops turning black or other colors, and it stays shiny copper looking… so if it all turns colored, take out the colored stuff and add fresh clean copper. Copper surface is best conditioned using water and citric acid, then rinse well with water and vacuum bake or at least allow to dry before use if necessary. (alcohols can handle a little water, and it may actually help speed up the copper reactions with sulfur compounds, but doing it dry in an alkane, for example, works just fine, too). Any private questions can be directed to my private messages here (I think) or to my instagram account, via DM.

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Yes, actually. I do have one such an incredibly useful table for pesticides in Excel. I do not know if it has b.p. or decomposition temperatures on it, though.

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No, Sir.

If you scrub the distillate post degum with excessive amounts of CBleach while in an alkane, then flushing said solution through a magsil column, then distilling again, the Distillate often comes over pink. With all things equal, but using less CBleach, typically “water clear”. Using a digital probe, with a “universal” fill solution as suggested in this Thermo Fisher publication I get a more acidic reading from the excessive CBleach scrub vs the lesser one. Does this mean there must be water present? Perhaps it came from the CBleach that i didn’t dry?

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10% carbon in that blend, for reference.

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The Cbleach blend has a moisture content of 11% according to the CoA. The water expands the matrix during manufacture in order to make it more active and some moisture is eventually attached to the matrix. @Photon_noir has explained how that works to me a couple times but I’m 30% neanderthal so my grasp is partial.

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Are you washing with pH 9-10 saline post the acidic wash?

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That is “gum” oxidation. See the posts on degumming.